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fuel tank remove
- suzuki jimny fella
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16 Jun 2012 17:03 #42464
by suzuki jimny fella
fuel tank remove was created by suzuki jimny fella
has any one done this as got little patch of rust there on the seam join both sides of rear foot well as where all the rust starts at on the seam
thanks guys
ps will run fuel down tomorow as off laneing lol
thanks guys
ps will run fuel down tomorow as off laneing lol
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- markyp2000
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16 Jun 2012 18:01 #42466
by markyp2000
Replied by markyp2000 on topic Re: fuel tank remove
remove prop exhaust filler neck pipe and undo the bolts till it falls out
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16 Jun 2012 20:03 #42470
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic Re: fuel tank remove
They usually leak at the filler pipe, mud packs between the inside of the rubber pipe and the tank spigot. When you remove the rubber pipe to look at the teeny tiny weep, bits of the rusty spigot come away with the pipe and make the spigot leak like the proverbial tap. :ohmy:
Anyway on removing the tank, the metal pipes go above the tank, and join directly to the tank with quick release connectors, so you have to lower the tank a little and then somehow release the pipes from top centre of the tank (The fuel pump). The supply line is under pressure, and fuel will squirt straight in your eye, so have a jack to support the tank whilst you run in the house to wash your eye out
Most likely the fuel pipes will crack at the rusty spot where they sweep up in front of the axle when you do this, so be ready to change them. (you should never disturb old steel pipes unless you want a leak)
Yes they are one piece right up to the engine compartment. The other place they break is at the bend behind the front wheel. (They are 8mm O.D. btw, get some injection rubber pipe to join over any cracked parts is my suggestion)
All this trouble is because Suzuki couldn't be bothered making an access panel under the back seat to remove the fuel pump, like eyerybody else (except rangerovers, they have great big holes jigsawed in the floor by home mechanics getting at the pump)
Best of luck!
.
Anyway on removing the tank, the metal pipes go above the tank, and join directly to the tank with quick release connectors, so you have to lower the tank a little and then somehow release the pipes from top centre of the tank (The fuel pump). The supply line is under pressure, and fuel will squirt straight in your eye, so have a jack to support the tank whilst you run in the house to wash your eye out
Most likely the fuel pipes will crack at the rusty spot where they sweep up in front of the axle when you do this, so be ready to change them. (you should never disturb old steel pipes unless you want a leak)
Yes they are one piece right up to the engine compartment. The other place they break is at the bend behind the front wheel. (They are 8mm O.D. btw, get some injection rubber pipe to join over any cracked parts is my suggestion)
All this trouble is because Suzuki couldn't be bothered making an access panel under the back seat to remove the fuel pump, like eyerybody else (except rangerovers, they have great big holes jigsawed in the floor by home mechanics getting at the pump)
Best of luck!
.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there

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16 Jun 2012 20:10 #42471
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic Re: fuel tank remove
I forgot, if you try and depressurise the fuel line Haynes style, by pulling the pump relay and starting the engine, most likely the MIL will come on and you will have to clear the error code. Best to let it go in your eye, this just hurts like hell, and means you will develop a cancer in 30-40 years.
There is a supply and a return line, and a vapour line to disconnect, the supply and return are the same size. If you mix them up the engine won't run and the MIL will come on.
There is a supply and a return line, and a vapour line to disconnect, the supply and return are the same size. If you mix them up the engine won't run and the MIL will come on.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there

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