just lifted the jimny but i have 3 issues?????

i have 2 issues , ive fitted the 3" kap springs and fitted rhino rays cranked radius arms but now the rear steering arm rubs the radius arms , how do i get over this , also the front panhard bolt that goes into the threadded part of the front axel has rounded and i cant tighten the front passenger side up??
and just 1 more thing will i need a front prop shaft extension as the toothed bit on the front rubber is showing?????

Right then...

I have KAP 3 inch lifting springs and standard radius arms and standard radius arm bushes. With this set up I have about 2 inches between the steering rod and the radius arms on both sides.

I'm guessing you have only bought the front radius arms as that is all that's needed to correct the steering geometry from the castor change of the lift. As the only difference between yours and mine is the radius arms, I would be thinking that the issue lies with them, however, Rhino Ray knows what he's doing and I wouldn't of thought you'd have issue with his kit. They can only be fitted one way too.

I know that Rhino Ray's arms are heat treated for hardness though, so if you have bought the rear ones too for this reason, have you fitted them to the front by mistake??? Stupid question I know but you never know. I have done things like that many a time!!!

With respect to the rounded off bolt, you need a set of these -

www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/detai...-bolt-grip-set/path/

Then once you've got the offending little blighter off you can take it to a fasteners and ask for a replacement, just to find out they can't do it as it's some odd Japanese thread and have to get one from Suzuki for far more than a bolt can ever be worth. - or the fasteners might come up trumps for 50p.

With respect tot he propshaft extention, you don't need one but the join in the the two parts of your prop should be protected by a rubber boot, only available from Suzuki for far too much money. You don't want to go off road without it though or it'll soon clog up the teeth with abrasive mud and cause plenty of unnecessary wear.

If you still can't figure out the steering bar and radius arms clashing, give Rhino Ray a call as the springs can't be causing it or post some piccies on here for us to have a gander at.

Kirkynut

just got off the phone with darren at kap and he said that the front radius arms are wrong , the arms were from rhino rays and i need to take them off , :-> thats another £150 waisted , he said there angled too much and i need to put the standard arms back on and stregthen them and just put some proper bushes in , also the threadded bolt hole in the axel he said i need to chop it out :shock:and weld another in
this is the offending bolt that the hole is threadded???




the spring looks pretty straght for a 3" lift

Oh dear, it does look like there is a problem with the arms, have you spoken to Rhino Ray about it as he produced the arms? You shouldn't have to lose out any money over it.

I have a set of the castor correction radius arm bushes that Darren is talking about using in the standard arms but have not yet fitted them and 'm in no rush to as it drives fine without them. One day I'll get round to it though. Perhaps one nice hot sunny day with a nice cold glass of coke and ice on the side!!!

They have to fitted just right as essentially the hole in the tube that goes through the bush is offset and needs to be fitted with the thinnest side one way to correct the castor that little bit.

With respect to the rounded off bolt, it seems a little much to have to chop that bolt out and weld another in when it coudl be extracted with the tool I have suggested and perhaps a little heat to persuade it, or once the tool has bitten into the bolt head the shocking action of an air gun or electric version of such. I have had the same problem with the bolts that hold the wishbones in place on my old Escort. With the tool and and the electric torque gun they always come out. I've used it on the nuts from the downpipe on our SJ to the manifold and you can imagine how rusted and stuck in they get.

Darren has all the kit though and from his point of view his suggestion may be quicker and simpler, from the DIY view I think my way is.

I still can't understand how Rhino Ray's arms are like they are as he's put alot of time and money into their development. I'm not aware of anyone else on this site with them on to draw from their experiences though.

You can get these arms from Rob Storr - www.worcester-technologies.com/rsmfg/jimny_susp.htm but they are not cheap, however, they will not break either being chrome molly. I don't know what bushes they take either and the cost can rise again with those on top.

I would be inclined to do as Darren says and stick witht he standard arms.

Can Darren get you a rubber boot for the prop off one of his scrappers whilst you're there?

Kirkynut

Having just had a quick think after writing the above - if that bolt on the panhard rod were to shear you would be stuffed and wouldn't be able to drive it to daren for him to sort it - so perhaps leave it to Darren!

Kirkynut

There really is something not right with your setup and I am not convinced its the Rhino Ray arms. They are certainly curved up but not to an extent where the arms should rub.

Here is mine....



As you can see, the steering arm is near the diff but a long way from the radius arm and it would have to be one hell of a curve to move it that much

Martin