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The wife moved our little jimny today, and I noticed a small pool of oil on the floor ... After going though all the metal oil leak possible problems in my head, I was confused ... Engine dry ... Gearbox .. Dry ... Front swivel joints ... Dry ... Kingpins ... Dry
So .... further inspection underneath revealed a thin sticky line up the inside of the rear wheel, and a trail comming from inside the drum.
Looks like a rear wheel bearing / seal... Time to spend more money with Martin ......
Former owner of Little "Ooky", who has now started a new life in Shetland
I suppse, given the abuse ours has recieved over the last 18 months ... Its not suprising we have only had the following fail ...
1 front Wheel Bearing
1 Starter Motor
4x4 vacuum bits fail
one clutch
and a set of brake disks / pads.
Add a rear wheel bearing to that
Former owner of Little "Ooky", who has now started a new life in Shetland
Any reason for it eating Bearings ? Our first Jimny lasted 4 years and, although was never taken swimming, was offroaded regularly. (bought from new)
Our current Jimny has already done 64,000 miles, so im not that surprised its needed a few components, and also given its been used almost solely offroad.
Did you change them yourself ? if so, are they hard to do ?
Former owner of Little "Ooky", who has now started a new life in Shetland
The breather is clear, a the pay and play sites here have a nasty clay type mud which causes all sorts of problems and a lot lf the lanes here are very wet for most of the year.
It's not an awful job just fiddly, grinding the retainer ring off is a pain in the arse though!!
I have bought but I'm yet to fit a rear disc conversion from muddyzook.com and the other bits to make it fit from eBay.
This will make pulling the half shafts out much easier as I'll not have to disconnect and then bleed the brakes each time. You have to take the cylinders off with drums. A crappy pain the back side job.
I have seen that KAM hardened rear shafts are 2 piece. The end. With the studs on bolts to the rest of the shaft so you can unbolt it and pull the bearing off the end preventing the need to grind off the retaining ring!
If you are changing rear bearings and seals regularly the rear disc conversion and KAM shafts must be a god send!
It works out more cost effective to get the KAM locking rear diff with the shafts too if you were planning to go down that route in the future.
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
I have bought but I'm yet to fit a rear disc conversion from muddyzook.com and the other bits to make it fit from eBay.
This will make pulling the half shafts out much easier as I'll not have to disconnect and then bleed the brakes each time. You have to take the cylinders off with drums. A crappy pain the back side job.
I have seen that KAM hardened rear shafts are 2 piece. The end. With the studs on bolts to the rest of the shaft so you can unbolt it and pull the bearing off the end preventing the need to grind off the retaining ring!
If you are changing rear bearings and seals regularly the rear disc conversion and KAM shafts must be a god send!
It works out more cost effective to get the KAM locking rear diff with the shafts too if you were planning to go down that route in the future.
Kirkynut
Can you post pictures/ build up of the rear disc installation as I fancy doing these - always filling the rear drums up with mud :side:
Quality of the wheelbearing grease might have something to contribute here...
Two thoughts: For a grease that really resists water wash-out, try Amsoil, (makers of the first ever synthetic oil), via Performance Oils, you pay a bit more, but their grease, and also their Racing Grease, is about the finest there is and is could make just that bit of difference. Red and very sticky.
Second thought: There is a grease that tries hard to be waterproof, used by motorbikes off-road, trailers of yachts in water etc...google Maxima Grease. Blue and could be just the job.
The bearing take a hammering presumably cos of the weight of the wheel/tyres and its a lot of rubber for a fairly light car, with a lot of unsprung weight. A lighter, narrower tyre, might also reduce the punishment.
I have an idea and am interested in peoples opinions:
Landrover TDI axles with rear disc brakes
Buy a knackered jimny axle case and remove the radius arm mounts, shock mounts and coil mounts.
Transplant them onto the landy axle along with Rover 600 calipers to give me a handbrake, fit as if it was a direct jimny replacement with alterations to propshaft/flanges as needed.
Or use the landy radius also and make a mount for the chassis?
Or any better suggestions?
Oh and 4.7 ratio diffs to help the gearing
I know the landy boys bust diffs like there is no tomorrow, but with the low hp of a jimny and low weight I can't see it being a problem.....
Last edit: 04 Aug 2010 18:29 by colin f. Reason: more info
