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Shock Absorbers,Dampers, whatever you call 'em!

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12 Jun 2011 15:32 #17675 by kirkynut
I have a KAP 3 inch lift kit which has Pro-comp shocks. They have just about expired.

I have been happy with them but the car has been a bit rolly polly with them. Now I'm not sure if that's due to them being knackered and they have just finally given up the ghost completely or if that's just the way they are - being a gradual change when they give up.

I don't know what ones they are either ie: es1000's, es3000's or es9000's etc... until I can get one off next set of rest days - the rear top bolts are seized up proper job!

What can you lot suggest will be compliant off road and not spine chattering on road but not rolly polly either when matched to my springs???

I might just call Darren at KAP and ask what he would have supplied all those many years ago when my kit was fitted - before my ownership of the car - and get what he suggests, but I would like to know what other's you lot have tried and tested before I part with my hard earned.

I am aware of the existence of Rancho and note that Trail Master don't list a 3" shock and seem a bit pricey, but what do y'all think???

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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13 Jun 2011 13:28 #17719 by Obarno
In all probability they are ES 1000's which are fine but to my mind a budget shock. They are generally sold on size and any one size will fit a range of vehicles. My car had them when I bought it and the rears were leaking. I measured their closed and open lengths and bought something the same size from Martin - Trailmaster comfort range - which I personally find very good on the road and off. Not too soft, but not bone shaking hard. If the ones he has are not exactly the same length you could use rear shock brackets to give a little extra length.
My other Jimny has OME springs and shocks which again are made specifically for that car, but designed for a 40mm lift so probably too short. They give quite a soft ride but ok and are more flexible off road.

Although the purpose made ones are more expensive I can't help thinking you get what you pay for.

Manual VVT, 2 1/2" lift, ORA castor corrected arms, 2" ORA body lift, 4:1 transfer box, Uprated front shafts & CVs ERM , ARBs back & front 3.9 diffs, 6 point cage, ORA winch bumper - Superwinch EP9, ORA rear bumper, ORA axle truses, Diff guards ERM , TBR tank guard, Snorkel, Kumho KL71.30.9.50 15

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13 Jun 2011 16:48 #17725 by kirkynut
I know what you're saying about you get what you pay for, but £175.00 a pair!!! I can get a whole car's set of 4 Pro Comps for £160.00!!!

Rough Country are another - anyone got them on a 3 inch lift??? Dave @ Llama 4x4 sells them, again for £40 a corner inc the dreaded.

Does anyone know if the springs on the old KAP kits are Pro Comp??? If so, might be best sticking with what they were matched with but would still like to hear feedback on Rough Country and such like - Trailmasters are just a little too pricey for me, however good they are.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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15 Jun 2011 08:14 #17819 by kirkynut
Now I've just driven it for the first time since I last used it and can see no problem!

Must just have not been used to the feeling of a lifted Jimny on the road as we had been off road for a number of hours.

I've checked the rears and they seem fine, good pressure both ways and no leaks and established from the code on them and the guide on BigJimny that they are ES3000's.

Will check the fronts another day and see what they are and will consider replacing like for like in the next few months.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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  • Cocopolo
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15 Jun 2011 09:58 - 15 Jun 2011 10:01 #17828 by Cocopolo
I think is normal for twintube shock absorbers to be gradually more soft the more you make them work hard ... then, when they cool down they come back to normal stiffness (of course, untill they worn out and feel too soft also when they are completely cold) ...

To avoid this problem you should use high pressure monotube shock absorbers, or twin tube using foam cell inside instead of nitrogen or air ... both monotube and foam cell, on the downside, have higher costs and more stiffness ...

CIAO
Last edit: 15 Jun 2011 10:01 by Cocopolo.

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15 Jun 2011 22:20 #17857 by kirkynut

Cocopolo wrote: I think is normal for twintube shock absorbers to be gradually more soft the more you make them work hard ... then, when they cool down they come back to normal stiffness (of course, untill they worn out and feel too soft also when they are completely cold) ...

To avoid this problem you should use high pressure monotube shock absorbers, or twin tube using foam cell inside instead of nitrogen or air ... both monotube and foam cell, on the downside, have higher costs and more stiffness ...

CIAO


You have probably hit upon the issue spot on. I can see that the oil will get hot and we did stay in the course longer than normal.

The price difference between shocks is probably due to their construction as you describe.

Thanks for your input, it has helped a lot.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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