Play in front propshaft and grumbling/grinding

I've just done kingpin bearings, new pads, swivel hub seals and fitted the spring spacer lift.

Since doing all this ive got a mechanical grinding/grumbling, its one of those noises that sounds like its coming from the front but could well be from the back. Its only really noticeable at low speed and doesn't get louder as the speed increases. When i'm in 4wd my front diff makes a similiar noise but this is in 2wd. I've changed the fluid in the front diff and its made no difference. I've checked everything fwh, diff etc.. and when under the car if i pull in the front propshaft theres about 5-6mm of play in it and its about 5mm away from the steering arm. My first thought was that the fwh wasn't unlocking but i've done the jacking up test, should the front prop still rotate with the wheel? I wonder if the prop is fouling the steering arm.

Has the lift exaggerated an existing problem or is it coincidental?

The vacuum to release the hubs goes through the bearing, the hole is at 12 o'clock on the hub, just inside the oil seal. It is easy to block with grease when fitting the new bearing.

whip the hubs off and check if one is still engaged. you can then manually disengage it and refit.

I ended up blowing down the release tube with the hub removed to clear the hole of grease when I did my wheelbearing.

Thanks, i'll have a look at the hubs tomorrow, surely the front prop shouldn't rotate when they're unlocked?

If one is staying locked, the front prop will rotate by hand alright, it makes a fair amount of whirring when driving though as one halfshaft turns and the little gears in the diff have to rotate.
You can feel the drag of the axle when rotating a jacked up wheel, but easier to just whip the hub off and look at the centre to see if it is engaged.

Thanks for the help, checked both this morning and even though there was clicking they were both still engaged. I cleaned them up and all appears well.

Peace is restored!

You need to find out why they are still engaged, or it will happen again next time you select 4wd.
From memory the rubber pipe at the top of the swivel disengages it.
With the freewheel hub removed you should be able to blow down that pipe stub and through the bearing. (and the other stub, but this comes out along the splines of the cv joint.)
If you can't, take the wheel bearing off and clear the hole.
If you can, inspect the (rusty as old iron) vacuum pipes for damage. You would think that Suzuki could have protected them in some way from corrosion......

There is no vacuum sensor on the disengage line, unlike the engage line which flashes the 4wd light. The only indication you get is "click-click" as both hubs disengage when you select 2wd with the engine ticking over.

Also (as I found out recently, if you turn the engine off in 4wd, select 2wd with the ignition off, and start up again, the hubs stay engaged)