Wheel refurbishment

I'm beginning to think that state of the wheels on temeraire is rather letting the side down. There's plenty of outfits advertising their services and I'm sure I could probably just pick the first one off Google. But obviously I would prefer to use someone actually recommended by trustworthy people like you lovely lot. So yeah someone in the top half of England that does good work and provides good value. 

I am not far enough "north" to recommend any specific company.

However there is an interesting  segment in this video  that discusses wheel refurb on a Suzuki and basically why it has to be all four and not just one wheel due to paint match.
The only thing they dont mention is somewhere with a paint scanner, when we had the SJ bodywork done they used the paint code on the VIN plate and also used a scanner to check that it all matched up. So perhaps if you are doing one wheel you might need to find somewhere that does a paint scan match to get a good match of colour.

I'm just looking at a basic off white so a colour match need only be off some code or other. The local place wants a minimum of 85 which I think probably includes the harrogate tax which I don't really want to pay.

These might be too far for you, but i used them a few times when I had my Toyota iQ.

AWR Bury

I am going back 7 years, so no recent experience. I think it was £45 a wheel then.

How are the original wheels finished- specifically what do they put onto the bare alloy to ensure the finishing coats actually stick? (I wouldn't be surprised if they still use zinc chromate in Japan)
You want someone who can do the same.

I had the wheels of my Nissan "powder coated".  It didn't last two years before the powder coat was coming off in sheets with all that deadly corrosive salt. They just acid dip the wheel to get the paint off, then blast the corrosion off- (probably with an aqua blaster) and powder coat. Then the slightest mark in the coating from a stone or just looking at it too hard and it sucks corrosive salt in, the alloy rots and flakes all the coating off.
(Even worse, it gets between the rim and the tyre through the slight marks the tyre fitter makes, or slight damage from storing the finished wheel before you get it, and pushes the tyre off the rim breaking the seal and air comes out through the porous corrosion.)

If you can stand to watch the video Martin linked, the refurbisher fobbed Matthew off on the lack of colour match by saying that no-one gets Suzuki alloys refurbished- implying that the finish is actually durable! Mine have lasted 6 years which is 2 years longer than the Nissan ones originally did  (that I suspect were painted in the UK)

 

These were scuffed and rattle canned several different colours before the white they are now and notwithstanding only one of them has had some kind of reaction causing the paint to crack none of them stay clean. By which I mean that they get dirty and then I wash them and they are still dirty even using proper wheel cleaner and they stay like that till I scuff them and repaint them. The rattle can claims to be a none lacquer top coat so it might be time to take them right back and go again with a different product hence wanting to look at powder or whatever but if that's only going to do 2 years it's sounding too expensive for its durability, 300 ish quid is a lot of rattle cans.