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Hi all! I am very recent to Jimny ownership and my big end bearings have gone.
I have a G13BB engine and I am just wondering if anyone knows which sized bearings to get, as I see +0.25mm, +0.50mm and +0.75mm as well as standard. If someone could point me to somewhere I can get some ASAP so I can get back on the road again that would be superb.
Maybe my oil pump is also faulty? I'm not quite sure. My plan is to swap the bearings so I can get around while I look for a G16B to put in it.
I can get them but as you point out, you have to know the sizes you require.
In the workshop manual and the parts manual for the G13BB there are only two sizes listed, "Standard" and "0.25mm undersize". The manual says to use gauging plastic to decide if you need to move from standard to 0.25mm on rebuild. The 0.25mm ones have 0.25 stamped on them
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
Yes, it suggests that if you cannot get the standard shell to gauge within the tolerances then re-grind and use the 0.25 shells
I will update with prices soon - what colour rubbers do you need (I guess "blue")
Martin
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
I have never done this myself but the manual says the piston and con-rods need to be removed "upwards" so that means the head has to come off. I then suspect that with sufficient parts removed the crank could then be dropped downwards.
Martin
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
Wheel arch rubbers - £35 each (limited stock across Europe at the moment and would need to check which "blue" as there are two
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
I have known for the shells to break up leaving the crankshaft big ends in perfect condition, but this is unusual. Normally you can expect a degree of wear on the c/shaft and not just on the big ends. Although I have not dismantled the Jimny engine, removal of the sump should not pose a problem, you may need to lower the axle, but there are others on the forum who can advise as to any serious problems. It is usually possible to remove the sump and the oil pickup - it will probably be in the way - and then remove a big end shell cap which will then enable you to visually inspect the shell bearing and the crankshaft. If you find grooves or such in the c/shaft then fitting new shells is a waste of time. You will need to remove the engine for a bottom end strip to get the c/shaft out and then either have it ground or replaced. This is not a simple job and requires specialist knowledge and tools. You mentioned earlier that you were going to replace your present engine with a 1.6 litre model, so maybe you might think about doing that and not bothering with rebuilding your present motor. If on the other hand your c/shaft surfaces are ok, then check the mains while you are at it and if they are ok you should be able to swap just the big end shells without stripping the engine any further.
This is the plan! Just wanted some reassurance before I started taking things to bits.
On the fateful journey, about 5 mins in the loud clacking noise started so I got the rest of the way home (around 15 mins) so hopefully the damage won't be too critical. As most of anecdotes of this kind of problem (when cranks need grinding and new conrods) are when people keep driving the vehicle around for days/weeks.
I may follow up with some pictures and videos when I get hacking n smashing.
Sooo I've taken it to bits, checked all the big end bearings and they seem fine. I found this fragment in the sump. It seems to be a cast, then machined piece. It's non magnetic. Any ideas?
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