Exhaust fumes smell of sulphur problem solved ?

Hi guys, wondered if anybody could provide some advice. I have a 2010 Jimny (dohc engine.)
OVer the last few weeks a problem has occurred. At first I believed it was cam or crank sensor related, so changed both. But still has a very erratic idle. Drops to around 500rpm once the engine is warm, and has been known to cut out at junctions. I checked the pcv valve, i was able too blow in both directions through it, so replaced that as well. Today I've cleaned all the connectors, but still no improvement.
I have also checked battery (12.28 v engine off, 14.28v on idle). However I noticed a sulphur like smell from the exhaust. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions I could try?

The vehicle has 35k miles, and had plugs/oil and filter and air filter replaced at 34k.
I get no codes on a OBD2 reader. 
Any help would be greatly appreciated. UK model.
Thank you. Apologies if this is in wrong section.

Hi,
Was it OK before you changed the plugs at 34K or did you change them to fix this problem?
If so go back and have a look at the plugs and coil pack connection. Take the plugs out and check they are all the same colour, if you have your old plugs fit them back and try to eliminate the plugs as a possible cause.
Faulty coil packs can do this and don't report any error codes.
Just a starting suggest.

Re smell - you get this until the engine +exhaust is upto operating temperature. It's normal if you are starting in your yard, not so if you have been for a good run and everything is upto temp.
Good luck
Mike
 

Thanks for the reply.
Sadly I don't have the old plugs, but new ones are all the correct colour, having inspected them this morning. I remember there being what i thought was a minor miss fire around the 32-34 k mark, and just decided to do a minor service at 34k. Plugs,oil,filters etc. I'd put 30k on the clock in my ownership, felt it was about time.
Again check coil pack connections, but don't know how to test the coils with a multi meter.
Car was started just outside garage this morning, and left to idle until operating temp reached, this is when it started too sound lumpy again and rpm dropped. Switched off, and went to collect mug from garage and noticed strong sulphur smell. First time I've noticed it, but in fairness once I start it I normally drive off.
Any advice on bench testing could with a meter would be nice.
As an aside, I've noticed on the digital odometer/trip meter that if I scroll through it shows
1. Total mileage
2. Trip A
3. Trip B
4. Three what look like zero's 000, any idea what this may mean?, Don't recall seeing it last time I scrolled through.
Cheers

They are the brightness of the backlight, O= dull, 00= brighter, 000=brightest. Think I have it the correct way around!

I'll have a look later if I have any info on the coil packs that could be used for some basic checks. They are in a hostile environment on top of a hot engine, it's possible the heat is the issue and when cold all is ok.
You have changed the other suspects (crank / cam sensors), so you have to assume these are ok as it's made no difference.

Ok, so a quick update. Started vehicle up this morning. Started easily enough, and let it idle. Idled great about 750-+rpm. But once upto temperature revs dropped to 500 -/+.
Unplugged each coil pack one at a time, on doing this the engine didn't stall but certainly ran even rougher. My theory being if it cut out completely I could suspect a dodgy coil pack. So that scuppered my theory.
Then I blipped the throttle manually a few times, not really sure why, but thought I could hear a sound like an electric short/arc. I continued doing this several times and am sure that's what I can hear, but haven't been able to located anything. It only makes that noise on initial prod of throttle and the engine revs nicely. Can anybody shed any light on this?
It's booked into the local garage Monday, but would much prefer to solve it at home.

Sorry but can't find anything Jimny specific on coil packs in my info, but plenty generic "how to test" videos on you tube, but not tried any.
ARC sound - coil packs?
Could be worth starting the engine tonight after dark with the coil pack cover off, you will certainly see any issues as arcs once the light has gone.
 

After a disaster at the local garage, total waste of time. 8 hrs in there, no fault found by them, and the suggestion it was dirty oil causing my problems. Impossible, simply because the engine oil had been done 500 miles previously!!
so back to my garage and time to investigate the original problem of very poor idle at running temp.
Removed EGR valve, not a easy task.  Removed all of the loom around it, this gave more space.
The valve wasn't that dirty really, but noticed the valve itself wasn't seating properly. Took the assembly apart, and found the spring was not returning correctly. A good dose of gunk /3 in 1 oil and a final clean up with petrol and jobs a goodun. Found that it was easier too re assemble by fitting the valve to the mainfold take off pipe first, much easier to install metal gasket. It also then held the valve body in the correct position too insert the 2 X 12 mm bolts. Loom re installed, and Jimny is running great.
I think in future if I have the problem again, I will firstly just remove the 4 screws in top of the EGR valve solenoid and manually check the valve is returning/not stuck.
I've added some pics/video.After a disaster at the local garage, total waste of time. 8 hrs in there, no fault found by them, and the suggestion it was dirty oil causing my problems. Impossible, simply because the engine oil had been done 500 miles previously!!
so back to my garage and time to investigate the original problem of very poor idle at running temp.
Removed EGR valve, not a easy task.  Removed all of the loom around it, this gave more space.
The valve wasn't that dirty really, but noticed the valve itself wasn't seating properly. Took the assembly apart, and found the spring was not returning correctly. A good dose of gunk /3 in 1 oil and a final clean up with petrol and jobs a goodun. Found that it was easier too re assemble by fitting the valve to the mainfold take off pipe first, much easier to install metal gasket. It also then held the valve body in the correct position too insert the 2 X 12 mm bolts. Loom re installed, and Jimny is running great.
I think in future if I have the problem again, I will firstly just remove the 4 screws in top of the EGR valve solenoid and manually check the valve is returning/not stuck.
I've added some pics/video.

  

 

Thanks for taking the time to feedback the cause of the fault, it's the only way we can learn.
Good news you got it sorted, but I am surprised it's the ERG valve at this low mileage and its not from what you said dirty. What's your opinion, faulty from new or previous owner / mechanic fiddling left it not seating properly?
Just interested so we can help the next person a little better.
TaMike

It could be because I drive like I'm driving Miss Daisy!! But in all seriousness, I think over the last 6 months it hasn't had a lot of use. Sort of once a week shopping trip (4mile round trip) so not been getting a good run out. The other possibility is perhaps my location. The sea is literally 600metres away and on the west coast, so constant salty rain blowing in a lot of the time. There was some salt corrosion on the alloy solenoid body, and the base of the valve spring was well gunked up.. I shall keep an eye on it. When I noticed the valve was stuck, it took some pressure to make it go up or down. I reckon I spent 20 minutes pressing it by hand and lubricating it before it free up properly.
One last thought would be the solenoid malfunctioned and then carbon build up occured.