Does anyone out there have a Jimny that has a "Death Wobble" in the steering and they have changed Kingpin Bearins, wheel bearings and generally despair at curing it? The wobble in question tends to happen at close to motorway speeds (not the 30-40mph of the bearing wobble) and also seems to be prevalent in the Jimny O2 model with alloy wheels.
If so, and you are technically capable of playing with the hubs, then I have made up the shim kit that Suzuki have started to fit to some cars to cure this.
I would like someone to try this out (for free), if this sounds like you then drop me a line. If this proves to work then I will have the kit available for £4 including postage, which is better than the £200 or so that Suzuki want to supply and fit it for, however you will have to fit it yourself.
Martin
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
The kit contains 3 different sizes of shims, 4 of each size.
Each car has 4 kingpins, hence the 4 of each size bit.
The shims are 0.2, 0.5 and 1.0 mm.
This lets you build up the following sets - 0.2, 0.5, 0.7, 1.0. 1.2 (and if you really want 1.5 and 1.7!)
On each side of the car separately you remove the top and bottom kingpins and undo the steering ball joints. You then add the shims (same size matched to top and bottom kingpins), starting with the smallest. Then with the steering joints still disconnected you re-assemble the joint. At this point you should measure the effort required to move the hub fully from left to right using a spring balance. However I have found in the past that your finger tips are best for this. Swivel it with your fingers and you can feel the tightness of the movement. At first the hub will swivel loosely but as you build up the shims it will stiffen. You need to find the point where it feels smooth but firm and not lumpy. The lumpness feels as if the bearing is "jumping" over the small bearings in the race, its hard to describe but clear when you feel it, at this point it is too tight and you need to step back a shim
Martin
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
No problem, I will post you the missing ones later, you should have 12 in total, I must have mis-counted when packing?
Can I absolutely check what you need as your list doesn't make sense.
There should have been:
4 x 1mm
4 x 0.5mm
4 x 0.2 mm
There are NO 0.7mms at all?
I am confused?
Martin
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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