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Introduction

• Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.
• Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.
• Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.

• Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.
• That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.
• As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.

• The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.
  • Five-nut sets are uncommon.
• Therefore, if you obtain a four-piece set instead of a five-piece set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.
  • Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-piece set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...

Wheel nut specifications

• Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.

• Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications M12 x 1.25.
  • The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.
  • The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.
• The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.
• The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.

Types of locking wheel nuts

Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.

1. Design A - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.
   • This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.
   • The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.
2. Design B - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.
   • This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.
3. Design C - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.
   • This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.
   • This type of nut is very difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.
   • A disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.
     • In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.
     • However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.

Locking wheel nuts products

Suzuki sells (or used to sell) four locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:

1. 00800-63242-000
   • Design A.
   • Four-nut set.
   • An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue 99F00-20M21-001 from year 2006.
2. 99000-990Y7-013
   • Appears to be design B.
   • Four-nut set.
3. 990E0-59J49-000
   • Four-nut set.
   • Appears to be design A.
4. 990E0-59J47-000

• • Design C - the premium model.
  • Four-nut set.

Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market:

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Page last edited on 9/02/2023 by user Bosanek