Buying a Jimny

Before you buy

• Take one for a test drive, compared to modern cars even the most recent Jimnys feel primitive.
• Buy one in the Spring and sell one in the Winter, everyone wants a 4x4 when the snow falls so prices are higher in the winter.
• Check the MOT history online at https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

General Points

• The main issue with Jimnys is rust, depending on the year/model etc some had rust protection but others did not. As the vehicle is chassis based it can pass a UK MOT test with quite a bit of rust unless the rust is around the body and seat mounting points.
  • Try and look behind the front headlamps, underneath the lamps and splashguard, this is a rust point and is near the front body mounts.
  • Lift any carpet in the boot and look into the small pan where the tools/jack are stored, this can rust out, particularly on soft-tops.
  • Check the boot floor in general, this can rust through and is the most common issue. This is a real problem for older Jimnys.
  • Check around the seat belt mounting points for rust.
  • Check around the plastic trim, particularly on the sills as rust hides behind.
  • Check the brackets which connect the arms holding the axle in place, these rust at the axle and at the chassis end.
• Kingpin bearings
  • A common issue on live axle 4x4s. These corrode and wear quickly. It is almost inevitable that you will have to change them at some point.
  • When buying take that vital test drive and check for steering wobble around 45 - 50 mph. see Death Wobble
  • Worn Kingpin Bearings are not the end of the world see: Changing the Kinpin Bearings
  • Beware of ex-Landrover mechanics, they can insist that the Swivel joint should be filled with oil (Yes for Landrovers, NO for Suzuki)
• Corroded Balls
  • Again a Landrover issue where the chrome balls are vital. NOT a Suzuki issue, simply file them smooth and paint.
• Worn Transfer chains. Be mean to the car on its test drive, dump the clutch at high revs in 1st and listen for a very loud BRRR! noise with no car movement. (Transfer boxes are quite cheap on the scrap market - no point in changing the chain)
• 4WD - Check it works. Find a loose surface and try engaging it. Listen for loud clicks to confirm hubs have engaged. You cannot drive in 4WD on the road in dry conditions in a Jimny as it is part time 4WD and damages the car.
• Vacuum Hubs (see 4WD above). These fail regularly as they are not used often. A simple clean and service will fix most issues.
• Worn trailing arm mounts. A clunk from the rear as you pull away in 1st gear. Sometimes it just loose bolts, other times the mounting hole has worn away which will rquire welding.

G13B Specifics

• These have a traditional cam-belt, make sure its been changed at the correct intervals.

Soft-top Specifics

• The Soft-top retained the G13B until the end with some late registrations in 2005
• There are some M13A engined soft-tops around but these seem to be rare and an anomaly.
• The soft-top frames suffer considerable corrosion at the front, Suzuki no longer make these parts and getting hold of replacements is extremely difficult
• New soft tops can be bought from Monsoon in the UK. They have a reputation for good quality.
• There is a removable hard-top available to replace a soft-top during winter. Contact the BigJimny Store as some are still available. Dave at Bits4Vits has an article on fitting one.

Suzuki Jimny Hardtop

M13A Specifics

• These have a cam chain which DOES NOT require changing

M13A VVT Specifics

• VVT Engine is nice and no real issues
• These vehicles had a new style gearbox for a few years which gives issues. Check carefully for a noise in 3rd or 4th Gear. About £700 to repair if an issue occurs.
• Electronic Transfer box, ok for average users but not liked if you are modifying the Jimny.

K9K Diesel Specifics

Information sent by Bosanek from the BigJimny Forum

• Not available in the UK
• Engine is a Renault 1.5 dCi and most Renault parts and service skills apply to these engine.
• Two generations
  • First generation was produced from 2003 to approx 2006, and it used an older Renault K9K 700 engine. Engine specifications: 1461 cm3 cubic capacity, power 48 kW / 65 PS, turbocharged, non-intercooled.
  • Second generation was produced from approx 2006 to 2011, and it used a newer Renault K9k 266 engine. Engine specifications: 1461 cm3 cubic capacity, power 63 kW / 86 PS, turbocharged, intercooled
  • Like a lot of Santana built vehicles there are some mixed combinations of engines and features around the 2006 change over date. Later ones were built in Japan.
  • First generation engines suffer from high pressure fuel pump failure which wrecks the injectors and effectively ruins the engine.

Automatic Specifics

• Make sure they change smoothly and go through all the gears correctly. They love fresh AT Fluid and need changing and topping up otherwise changing is poor and top gear fails to select.

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Page last edited on 17/05/2016 by user Leftcase