Difference between revisions of "Subwoofer speaker installation (Jimny 4)"
(Created page with "{{intro-notes}} == Introduction == {{Gen4|}} This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the re...") |
|||
| Line 6: | Line 6: | ||
This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only | This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only | ||
| − | The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment) | + | The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment). |
== Tools needed == | == Tools needed == | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
* Large flat head screwdriver; | * Large flat head screwdriver; | ||
* Small flat head screwdriver; | * Small flat head screwdriver; | ||
| Line 28: | Line 26: | ||
** Suitable cable connectors; | ** Suitable cable connectors; | ||
** Wire crimper; | ** Wire crimper; | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Extra parts needed == | ||
| + | *2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire | ||
| + | *1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type) | ||
| + | *1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4) | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Supplied cables == | ||
| + | The sub is supplied with 3 main set of cables | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Power:''' | ||
| + | *Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell | ||
| + | *Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected | ||
| + | *Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell | ||
| + | |||
| + | The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead. | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Speaker input:''' | ||
| + | *White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers + | ||
| + | *White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers - | ||
| + | |||
| + | Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run and more importantly when fitting the rear speaker an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker, this means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring. | ||
Revision as of 21:38, 19 November 2019
The content of any article might be expanded / improved in the future - revisit it sometimes.
Seen a mistake? Know something that isn't written? Edit and change this article yourself!
Some images in the article (if present) can be enlarged by clicking on them.
Introduction
This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only
The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).
Tools needed
- Large flat head screwdriver;
- Small flat head screwdriver;
- 10 mm socket & driver/ratchet;
- #2 Philips screwdriver;
- Electrical tape;
- Suitable tool to pry plastic trim;
- Wire cutter;
- Wire insulation stripper;
- For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide)
- Soldering iron;
- Solder;
- Heat shrink;
- For those who prefer detachable wire connections:
- Suitable cable connectors;
- Wire crimper;
Extra parts needed
- 2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire
- 1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type)
- 1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4)
Supplied cables
The sub is supplied with 3 main set of cables
Power:
- Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell
- Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected
- Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell
The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead.
Speaker input:
- White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers +
- White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers -
Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run and more importantly when fitting the rear speaker an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker, this means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring.
