Difference between revisions of "Martins Test"

From BigJimny Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search
Line 1: Line 1:
−
== Front Wheel Bearings ==
+
= Front Wheel Bearings =
 +
== Introduction ==
  
−
The Front Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road.
+
The Front Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road. Providing you have the correct tools it can be  straight forward task.
−
=== Typical Damage ===
 
−
==== Damaged Arms ====
 
−
My arms had suffered from a number of years of off-roading, they were also fitted with correction bushes which are good for a 2 inch lift but not really ok for the 3 inch lift I have got fitted.
 
  
−
The arms on mine were nicely bent when compared to the edge of my yellow spirit level.....
+
It is also closely tied in with changing/working on the kingpin bearings so some
 +
of the steps are duplicated.
 +
So what are the symptoms of worn Wheel bearings:
 +
* Grating/Grinding as you rotate a jacked up wheel
 +
* Steering Shimmy, see [[Death_Wobble | Death Wobble ]]
 +
* Oil/Grease leaking from Swivel Joint
 +
* Horizontal play in the front wheel (with the car jacked up grip the wheel sides, there will be movement if they are worn. Get an assistant to press the brakes and the movement should disappear)
  
−
[[image:Bent_arm.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Bent Leading Arm]]
+
[[File:leaky_swivel.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Leaking front swivel]]{{note|Click on images to make them larger}}
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
Therefore I decided to replace the arms and cure the castor correction issues at the same time. A number of places do suitable replacement arms, be very careful about what arms you buy as the quality varies and any failure of the arm is very dangerous. The process for installation of fronts and rears is basically the same.
 
  
−
==== Damaged Bushes ====
+
It is also common not to experience any play at all and to even pass an MOT with a really bad bearing. This is because the bearings are dual race and only one race may have failed.
  
−
Worn bushes can be a source of "[[Death_Wobble|Death Wobble]]". Here bushes themselves are splitting. Whilst they had not completely failed they were not in good health. You can see where the screwdriver can open up the split in the pictures below:
+
----
  
−
[[image:Damaged_Bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Damaged Bush]]
+
== Changing the bearings ==
 +
=== Tools ===
 +
{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li>Assorted screwdrivers</li><li>[https://www.bigjimny.com/store/hub-nut-tool-suzuki-jimny.html Hub Nut Tool]</li><li>Circlip pliers (External)</li><li>An E10 Torx socket for the Vacuum Hub Bolts</li><li>A ball joint splitter</li><li>1" Imperial Socket</li><li>G-Clamp or brake piston retractor</li></ul>
 +
<br>
 +
}}
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
==== Damaged Mounts ====
+
=== The Video ===
−
 
+
Before you read the guide below you may wish to view the video. This shows the changing of the Kingpin Bearings on a Jimny fitted with ABS so you will see me remove the sensor etc.
−
The mounting points for the arms are really weak and thin. They can wear out in an "oval" fashion that results in a strange "clunk" noise when letting the clutch up. In the worst case the mount can corrode through and rip away from the axle, this is becoming increasingly common as Jimnys get older.
+
<br clear=all>
 +
<youtube>LMDyMmJ3VK0</youtube>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
The rest of the guide below shows the same task in a series of steps for clarity
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
[[image:Worn_mount.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Worn Axle Mount]]
+
=== Removing the Caliper and pads ===
 +
[[File:Caliper.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Jimny Front Caliper]]
 +
First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the [[Wikipedia:brake caliper | brake caliper]], this is the passenger side (nearside) caliper (UK)
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
[[image:Good_mount.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Good Axle Mount]]
+
[[File:Unbolt_caliper.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Unbolting the caliper]]
 +
Using a 12mm spanner, release the front caliper bolt (the left is the front of the car in this picture) and loosen the same bolt on the rear of the caliper.
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
[[image:Broken_mount1.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Broken Axle Mount]]
+
[[File:Open_caliper.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Open brake caliper]]
−
This is the same part as shown in the previous pictures except it is completely ripped off and gone!
+
The caliper then opens up using the rear bolt as a hinge.
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
=== Castor Correction ===
+
[[File:Removing_pads.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Removing the brake pads]]
−
If you are performing a lift then you may have heard about castor correction. The process of a spring lift (NOT a body lift) moves the position and angle of the axle slightly. This shows itself in the steering by making the steering feel loose and also reduces its ability to self centre. You can test this by steering in a gentle circle and then letting go of the steering wheel. A properly corrected Jimny will straighten up on its own whilst an uncorrected one will keep turning.
+
The pads are retained by small spring clips, a simple pull on the pads (horizontally away from the disk) should remove them (or gently prise out the pads with a small screwdriver - do not remove the spring clips). If you require new [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/front-brake-pads-aisin-suzuki-jimny.html pads], [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/front-pad-fitting-kit.html spring clips] or a [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/caliper-fitting-kit-aisin-suzuki-jimny.html caliper fitting kit] then these are available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/ BigJimny Store].
−
 
 
−
There are a number of ways of correcting the castor.
 
−
 
 
−
==== Correction Arms ====
 
−
 
 
−
The picture shows the arms for the front along with a free bush insertion tool with the ones I purchased.
 
−
 
 
−
[[image:Corrected_Arms.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Corrected arms]]
 
−
These arms are made with the adjustment built in therefore they should be fitted with STANDARD bushes. They are typically available for 3 inch or 4 inch lifts. Most people feel that 2 inch lifts do not need correction. If you are buying aftermarket arms make sure they provide for vacuum piping, handbrake cables and ABS cables.
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
==== Correction Bushes ====
+
=== Removing the Brake Disc ===
−
 
 
−
These work by off-setting the centre of the mount to achieve the correction. They are popular because of the price however they are probably best for small lifts (2 inches up to possibly 3 inches at a push) because the off-set required to give a larger lift means there is little to no rubber on one side of the bush which really affects its performance and ride).
 
−
 
 
−
[[image:Correction_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Correction Bushes]]
 
  
 +
[[File:Carrier_bolt.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Carrier bolt]]
 +
The caliper is held on with two bolts at the rear (see below).
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
[[image:Correction_bushes2.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Correction Bushes]]
+
[[File:Carrier_to_spring.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Caliper tied to Spring]]
−
 
+
Release the bolts and tie the caliper to the spring to keep it out of the way.
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
== Standard Bushes ==
+
[[File:Disc_removal.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Disc removal using bolt]]
−
 
+
Now the front brake disc can be removed. If you are lucky it will simply pull off but if you have problems then there are two M8 holes in the disk hub. Simply run two bolts into these holes and the disk will push off the hub. The picture below shows a bolt being used to push the disk off the hub.
−
A number of standard bushes are available.
 
−
 
 
−
[[image:Arm_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Selection of Bushes]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
 
+
My disk appeared to be ok on the visible side but the rear showed some bad wear so I will change them as part of this job. New [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/brake-disc-suzuki-jimny-107mm.html disks] are available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/ BigJimny Store].
−
The parts are ALL available by contacting the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/jimny-parts/service-items-and-parts/bushes-steering-wheels-axles.html BigJimny store] via phone or email (these are not stock items so are not shown directly in the store)
+
<gallery widths=250 heights=250>
−
 
+
Disc_front.jpg
−
* ADK 88008 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
+
Disk_rear.jpg
−
* ADK 88007 - Body end bushes (Two required)
+
</gallery>
−
 
 
−
If you are doing the back then the part numbers are:
 
−
 
 
−
* ADK 88006 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
 
−
* ADK 88007 - Body end bushes (Two required)
 
−
 
 
−
You could also buy the Suzuki ones if you want the original parts, the part numbers for the front are:
 
−
 
 
−
* 46282-81A1 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
 
−
* 46213-65D01 - Body end bushes (Two required)
 
−
 
 
−
And the rear are:
 
−
 
 
−
* 46282-81A00 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
 
−
* 46213-65D01 - Body end bushes (Two required) (See Note)
 
−
 
 
−
NOTE: Suzuki have identified that the 46213-65D series of bushes can cause [[Death_Wobble |Death Wobble]] a kit to replace these exists [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/suzuki-jimny-wobble-kit.html Wobble Kit]
 
−
 
 
−
A number of after-market suppliers also supply replacement bushes. These are commonly called "Poly-Bush" style and usually come in the form of a split bush which can be more easily inserted in the arms. For example here are some from [http://www.bits4vits.co.uk/store/jimny/radius-arm-to-axle-bushes-bits4vits/prod_1010.html Dave at Bits4Vits]
 
−
 
 
−
[[image:B4v-jimBshRAA.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Bits4Vits bushes]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
 +
=== Dismantling the Hub ===
  
−
If you are going to the trouble of putting on new arms you really ought to put in new bushes as they do wear and they are difficult to press out of the old arms anyway.
+
[[File:freewheelinghub.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Torx bolt on hub]]
−
 
+
Now the Freewheeling Hub needs to be removed. Suzuki have used Torx bolts to secure these so you will require an E10 socket to remove the bolts.
−
== Replacing the Bushes and Arms ==
 
−
 
 
−
=== Tools ===
 
−
{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li>Assorted screwdrivers</li><li>Access to a press (Desirable)</li><li> Tools to cut away old bush - see text </li></ul>
 
−
<br>
 
−
}}
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
 
+
[[File:hubcirclip.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Removing the circlip]]
−
=== Removing the arms/bushes ===
+
With the hub removed the driveshaft is exposed. The driveshaft is retained with a circlip so use a pair of circlip pliers to remove it. This is really fiddly and can be an annoying task. Behind the circlip is a rectangular washer that should also be removed. Note that I have also marked with white paint the orientation of the freewheeling hub, this is not strictly needed.
−
The first activity is to remove the old arms. You need to jack up the car and remove the front wheel. I assume you can do that so have not included it here. PLEASE NOTE: You will have to jack up the car '''WITHOUT''' using the axle or leading arm as a jacking point, you need the axle to be free to be unbolted from the arm.
 
−
 
 
−
The arm is secured with three bolts, one at the back and two at the front. You may have to cut the old bolts off as they could be rusted on.
 
−
[[image:Arm_bolts.jpg|250px|thumb|left|The bolts securing the arms]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
 
+
[[File:vacuumpipe.jpg|thumb|250px|left|removing a vacuum pipe]]
−
Those of you with older Jimnys may have the vacuum tubes for the locking hubs routed down the arms. If you are putting new aftermarket arms make sure that they have made provision for the vacuum tubes (front) or handbrake cables/ABS cables (rear). A lot of cheaper replacement arms forget these fundamental items.
+
Gently pull the two vacuum hoses for the hub from the knuckle making sure you note which one connects to each pipe. It is essential that you get this correct else the hub will not work again. Also note that if you have an ABS equipped vehicle then you will have to remove the sensor. I do not have photos of this but the video shows it. IT IS REALLY EASY TO SHEAR THE ABS BOLT - if you can I would soak it for a couple of days previously in penetrating oil.
−
 
 
−
[[image:Cables_along_the_arms.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Cables along the arms]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
 
+
[[File:swivelsealbolts.jpg|thumb|250x250px|left|Removing the swivel seal bolts]]
−
As the axle will be hanging free make sure it is secured in position to stop it moving too far otherwise bolting in back up may give issues.
+
At the rear of the hub release the small bolts holding the seal and retainer. You can see that the swivel hub is covered in oil, a bad sign for KingPin problems.
−
 
 
−
[[image:Axle.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Secured Axle]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
 
+
[[File:balljointsplitter.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Splitting the ball joint]]
−
If you are putting new bushes into old arms then you need to remove the bushes. There are two ways to remove the bushes. The first is to press them out with a hydraulic press. This is the method I went for. I went to the local garage and they pushed them out for beer money. However people started to leave the workshop when gauge on the press went through 35 tonnes!. They final moved at 38 tonnes with an extremely loud bang.
+
Undo the nuts on the steering joints, if the joint rotates then put a jack under the joint and lift the car slightly to lock the joint. Using a splitter, split the steering joints (two to do on the passenger side and one on the drivers side – UK).
−
 
 
−
Another way to remove them is to cut out the centre rubber section and then carefully saw two thin cuts in the remaining steel sleeve. This is the method Brian from the forum used and sent in these pictures.
 
−
 
 
−
With the arms secured in a vice, you can drill out a lot of the rubber
 
−
 
 
−
[[image:Removing_the_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Secured in the vice]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
 
+
[[File:kingpinbolts.jpg|thumb|250px|left|undoing the Kingpin bolts]]
−
[[image:Drilling_out_the_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Drilled out rubber]]
+
Finally, release the KingPin bolts themselves. There are two sets, top and bottom and they must not be mixed up so you can see in the picture that I have marked them up with a letter T. If you are doing both sides at once then do not mix them across either!.
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
 
+
The KingPins are also held in with sticky sealant so you will need to prise them out. The hub will now pull off. Beware, if they are badly worn the hub will be full of stinking grease, oil and water so make sure you can capture the mess in something. This is the bit I hate because of the smell!.
−
Then you can burn the rest of the rubber out
+
That’s water pouring out of the axle! Also shown is a worn out bearing.
−
 
+
<gallery widths=250px heights=250px>
−
[[image:Burning_out_the_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Burning out the rubber]]
+
leakingswivel1.jpg
 +
leakingswivel2.jpg
 +
wornbearing.jpg
 +
</gallery>
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
 +
The bearings are Koyo brand as standard. The BigJimny store has two kits available, the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/kingpin-bearing-kit-suzuki-jimny-koyo.html basic kit] has the two bearings and the small oil seal required to do one side. The [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/kingpin-bearing/seal-kit-suzuki-jimny.html full kit] also included the large external seal although some people choose not to change this. The thing to remember is that it is not a Landrover which has oil filled swivels. The joints on Jimnys should be "dry" apart from some lubricating grease.
  
−
Finally cut the steel ring that is stuck in the arm with a hacksaw and chisel out the remains.
+
The next stage is to CLEAN, CLEAN and then CLEAN again. Clean the swivels inside and out, clean the knuckles and pull out the drive shaft and clean that as well.
  
−
=== Installing the arms/bushes ===
+
=== The rebuild ===
−
There are two ways of installing the new bushes that depends on the bushes you have. If you have the steel cased bushes then these will need pressing in with a press. I have played about with trying to "wind" the new ones in with a piece of threaded rod but this was not successful. For the Poly-bush or split style bushes you can press these in with a large engineering vice or even by hand (split bushes).
 
  
−
==== Orientation ====
+
[[File:outerrace.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The old bearing race]]
−
Before you start it is important to understand that some bushes need to be installed in the correct orientation.
+
Once clean you can start the rebuild process. The KingPin bearings come in two parts, the race and an outer ring. This ring is still in the swivel and needs driving out.  
−
 
 
−
For standard bushes that have slots in them, the correct orientation is...
 
−
[[image:Slotted_bushes_orientation.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Correct slotted bush orientation]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
For castor correction bushes, the correct orientation is...
 
−
[[image:Castor_corrected_orientation.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor corrected orientation]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
[[image:Installed_correction_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor corrected installation]]
+
[[File:Remove Bearing Race.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Removing the bearing race]]
 +
A simple way to drive them out is to use a 1" Imperial socket. Using an extension bar fed through the swivel place the 1" Socket behind the ring and drive it out by hitting it. (picture from Dave at [http://www.bits4vits.co.uk Bits4Vits]  
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
==== Split/Polybush installation ====
+
The new rings can then be driven into place with a piece of wood to protect them from the hammer, again this is seen in the video {{color|green|(''picture needed here'')}}.  
−
Split or Polybush style bushes are straight forward to install. Split are particularly easy, this section shows a solid bush install.
 
  
−
First grease the inside of the arms.
+
I also hooked out the small axle shaft oil seal and put a new one in from the BigJimny kit. {{color|green|(''picture needed here'')}}.  
−
[[image:Greased_arms.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Greased Arms]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
Then you can create a puller using a long piece of studding and some large washers. By tightening the nuts the action pulls in the bush. (Studding is available from
 
−
builders merchants).
 
−
[[image:Bush_puller.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Homemade bush puller]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
It is then a straight forward task to fit the bushes. Apparently it is then easy to push it all in the final bit by hand if necessary, I understand other people have used a Rubber Mallet as well.
+
[[File:rebuiltswivel.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The rebuilt swivel]]
−
[[image:Nearly_done.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Almost finished]]
+
Here is the completed swivel with new rings and oil seal (and plenty of copper grease to help them all into place.
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
[[image:Finished_pulling.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Finished]]
+
If you are changing the large seal then now is the time to put the new one on. The confusing part is the order of the seals and rings on the swivel, the picture below is of the correct orientation, note also that the slits in the retainers go to the top.
 +
<gallery widths=250 heights=250>
 +
seal1.jpg
 +
seal2.jpg
 +
</gallery>
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
 
+
[[File:cvjoint.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The greased CV joint]]
−
==== Steel Cased bush installation ====
+
Pack the CV with grease (but do not overpack) and re-fit the driveshaft. A suitable [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/waterproof-grease.html waterproof grease] is available in the BigJimny Shop.
−
 
 
−
As previously stated, the steel cased bushes need to be pressed in. You should be able to find a local garage or engineering shop prepared to press them in for a small consideration. However, as I have worn a bit thin my welcome at my local garages with pressing in wheel bearings I decided to splash out on my own press. I am glad I did because of the time it took to press in the six bushes would have definitely seem me less than welcome at the garage.
 
−
 
 
−
The picture below show the principle behind pressing in the bush. My arms came with a press tool. The outer ring from the tool is placed over the hole and the bush is dropped in (with a smear of copper grease to help everything along)
 
−
 
 
−
[[image:Press_tool.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Press tool in position]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
Then the centre part of the tool is placed on top of the bush and the pressure is applied using the press, driving the bush into the arm.
+
[[File:sealant.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Applying sealant]]
−
[[image:Pressing_in_bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Pressing in the bush]]
+
Grease the new KingPin bearings and insert the top one in the carrier. I find the easiest way to grease the bearings is to put them in a polythene bag with some grease and use thebag to squeeze the grease into the bearing, this can be seen in the video. (''picture needed here'') .Carefully insert the new bottom bearing and, holding it in place, slide the whole knuckle onto the hub. Fill the Knuckle with 100ml of grease, Suzuki recommend only 100ml and not to overfill. Now the KingPins need to be inserted, but first they need a bead of sealant around the KingPin. Again the BigJimny shop sells suitable [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/loctite-premium-copper/silicone-sealant.html sealant].
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
Resulting in a bush neatly pressed into the arm.
+
Make sure that you have put the correct Kingpin in place, remember you should have marked them when you dismantled it!
  
−
[[image:Finished_bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Completed bush]]
+
Bolt the Kingpins in and tighten them to the correct torque (18ft/lbs)
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
However, it did not all go as smoothly as this for all the bushes. Whilst the outer part of the tool is a good fit, the inner part is right on the edge between sitting on the lip of the bush and dropping into the inner part where the rubber is. It is just a fraction too small. This applies to both ADK and Suzuki bushes.
 
  
−
The problem is slightly worse on the body end bushes as these are longer and stand proud of the tool. This means the tool/bush can move off of "straight" and result in damage to the bush. I had to clean up the damaged bush with a file to get rid of the edges that stood proud and would stop the bush fitting. Note also that really cheap aftermarket bushes (such as some I have seen from Eastern Europe suppliers) do not have any chamfering on the edge of the bush which also makes fitting more difficult.
+
Refit the steering arm (or arms if it is the side with two connections), tightening the nuts to 31ft/lbs
−
[[image:Damaged_pressed_bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Bush damaged in press]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
The cure to this for the longer bushes was to stop using the tool and simply use a large flat surface to press on top of the bush. The pressing surface has to have a hole in it to allow the bush centre to stand proud, an old flange from my SJ did the trick. I also created a very light chamfer on the edge of the arm with a file to "point" the bush in the correct direction. The first picture shows the chamfer....
 
  
−
[[image:Chamfering_edges.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Chamfering the edges]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
Then the SJ flange pushed the bush in fair and square.
 
−
[[image:Using_old_flange.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Pressing in with flange]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
So I ended up with a smart pair of arms complete with bushes....
 
−
[[image:Completed_arms.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Completed Arms]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
=== Re-fitting the arms ===
+
Fit the disk and fit the caliper (Caliper bolts 61ft/lbs), brake pads and bolt the caliper down in position (Caliper pin bolt 16/ft/lbs)
−
The next challenge is to fit the arms back onto the car. Because mine is a full rebuild, everything has been off the car and hence has "moved". If you were doing this as an upgrade your more likely to remove one arm at a time, keeping most parts in line. I had to line everything up to get the bolts in. I replaced all the bolts etc whilst I was doing this task. New bolts are available from the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/radius-arm-bolt.html BigJimny Store].
 
  
−
I would recommend that you hang the arm from the body end first...
+
Re-fit the wheel and lower the vehicle.
  
−
[[image:Body_end_bolt.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Body end bolted up]]
+
=== Torque Settings ===
 +
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#Front_Hub | reference data]]
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
With the rear of the arm attached I then offered up the front arms to the mounting point on the axle. This was a long way off so I used a Jack to lift the arm into position and then a lever (ok - I admit it - a large screwdriver!) to move it all around until the bolts fitted. Just a further word on the bolts/nuts. They can be fitted through in either direction but if they are too long or fitted the wrong way around (which is possible if you have removed the shock absorber) then you will find they foul on the shock absorber. Play about with the bolt arrangements BEFORE tightening them or you may have to take them out again, guess how I learnt that!
 
  
−
[[image:Axle_end_bolts.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Axle end bolted up]]
+
{{Edited}}
−
<br clear=all>
+
[[Category:Howto]][[Category:Steering]]
−
== Torque Settings ==
 
−
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#Axle | reference data]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 

Revision as of 13:51, 3 June 2016

Front Wheel Bearings

Introduction

The Front Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road. Providing you have the correct tools it can be straight forward task.

It is also closely tied in with changing/working on the kingpin bearings so some of the steps are duplicated. So what are the symptoms of worn Wheel bearings:

  • Grating/Grinding as you rotate a jacked up wheel
  • Steering Shimmy, see Death Wobble
  • Oil/Grease leaking from Swivel Joint
  • Horizontal play in the front wheel (with the car jacked up grip the wheel sides, there will be movement if they are worn. Get an assistant to press the brakes and the movement should disappear)
Leaking front swivel

Note Icon.pngClick on images to make them larger



It is also common not to experience any play at all and to even pass an MOT with a really bad bearing. This is because the bearings are dual race and only one race may have failed.

Changing the bearings

Tools

Spanner Icon.png
  • Standard metric sockets and spanners
  • Assorted screwdrivers
  • Hub Nut Tool
  • Circlip pliers (External)
  • An E10 Torx socket for the Vacuum Hub Bolts
  • A ball joint splitter
  • 1" Imperial Socket
  • G-Clamp or brake piston retractor



The Video

Before you read the guide below you may wish to view the video. This shows the changing of the Kingpin Bearings on a Jimny fitted with ABS so you will see me remove the sensor etc.

The rest of the guide below shows the same task in a series of steps for clarity

Removing the Caliper and pads

Jimny Front Caliper

First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the brake caliper, this is the passenger side (nearside) caliper (UK)

Unbolting the caliper

Using a 12mm spanner, release the front caliper bolt (the left is the front of the car in this picture) and loosen the same bolt on the rear of the caliper.

Open brake caliper

The caliper then opens up using the rear bolt as a hinge.

Removing the brake pads

The pads are retained by small spring clips, a simple pull on the pads (horizontally away from the disk) should remove them (or gently prise out the pads with a small screwdriver - do not remove the spring clips). If you require new pads, spring clips or a caliper fitting kit then these are available in the BigJimny Store.

Removing the Brake Disc

Carrier bolt

The caliper is held on with two bolts at the rear (see below).

Caliper tied to Spring

Release the bolts and tie the caliper to the spring to keep it out of the way.

Disc removal using bolt

Now the front brake disc can be removed. If you are lucky it will simply pull off but if you have problems then there are two M8 holes in the disk hub. Simply run two bolts into these holes and the disk will push off the hub. The picture below shows a bolt being used to push the disk off the hub.

My disk appeared to be ok on the visible side but the rear showed some bad wear so I will change them as part of this job. New disks are available in the BigJimny Store.

  • Disc front.jpg
  • Disk rear.jpg


Dismantling the Hub

Torx bolt on hub

Now the Freewheeling Hub needs to be removed. Suzuki have used Torx bolts to secure these so you will require an E10 socket to remove the bolts.

Removing the circlip

With the hub removed the driveshaft is exposed. The driveshaft is retained with a circlip so use a pair of circlip pliers to remove it. This is really fiddly and can be an annoying task. Behind the circlip is a rectangular washer that should also be removed. Note that I have also marked with white paint the orientation of the freewheeling hub, this is not strictly needed.

removing a vacuum pipe

Gently pull the two vacuum hoses for the hub from the knuckle making sure you note which one connects to each pipe. It is essential that you get this correct else the hub will not work again. Also note that if you have an ABS equipped vehicle then you will have to remove the sensor. I do not have photos of this but the video shows it. IT IS REALLY EASY TO SHEAR THE ABS BOLT - if you can I would soak it for a couple of days previously in penetrating oil.

Removing the swivel seal bolts

At the rear of the hub release the small bolts holding the seal and retainer. You can see that the swivel hub is covered in oil, a bad sign for KingPin problems.

Splitting the ball joint

Undo the nuts on the steering joints, if the joint rotates then put a jack under the joint and lift the car slightly to lock the joint. Using a splitter, split the steering joints (two to do on the passenger side and one on the drivers side – UK).

undoing the Kingpin bolts

Finally, release the KingPin bolts themselves. There are two sets, top and bottom and they must not be mixed up so you can see in the picture that I have marked them up with a letter T. If you are doing both sides at once then do not mix them across either!.
The KingPins are also held in with sticky sealant so you will need to prise them out. The hub will now pull off. Beware, if they are badly worn the hub will be full of stinking grease, oil and water so make sure you can capture the mess in something. This is the bit I hate because of the smell!. That’s water pouring out of the axle! Also shown is a worn out bearing.

  • Leakingswivel1.jpg
  • Leakingswivel2.jpg
  • Wornbearing.jpg


The bearings are Koyo brand as standard. The BigJimny store has two kits available, the basic kit has the two bearings and the small oil seal required to do one side. The full kit also included the large external seal although some people choose not to change this. The thing to remember is that it is not a Landrover which has oil filled swivels. The joints on Jimnys should be "dry" apart from some lubricating grease.

The next stage is to CLEAN, CLEAN and then CLEAN again. Clean the swivels inside and out, clean the knuckles and pull out the drive shaft and clean that as well.

The rebuild

The old bearing race

Once clean you can start the rebuild process. The KingPin bearings come in two parts, the race and an outer ring. This ring is still in the swivel and needs driving out.

Removing the bearing race

A simple way to drive them out is to use a 1" Imperial socket. Using an extension bar fed through the swivel place the 1" Socket behind the ring and drive it out by hitting it. (picture from Dave at Bits4Vits

The new rings can then be driven into place with a piece of wood to protect them from the hammer, again this is seen in the video (picture needed here).

I also hooked out the small axle shaft oil seal and put a new one in from the BigJimny kit. (picture needed here).

The rebuilt swivel

Here is the completed swivel with new rings and oil seal (and plenty of copper grease to help them all into place.
If you are changing the large seal then now is the time to put the new one on. The confusing part is the order of the seals and rings on the swivel, the picture below is of the correct orientation, note also that the slits in the retainers go to the top.

  • Seal1.jpg
  • Seal2.jpg


The greased CV joint

Pack the CV with grease (but do not overpack) and re-fit the driveshaft. A suitable waterproof grease is available in the BigJimny Shop.

Applying sealant

Grease the new KingPin bearings and insert the top one in the carrier. I find the easiest way to grease the bearings is to put them in a polythene bag with some grease and use thebag to squeeze the grease into the bearing, this can be seen in the video. (picture needed here) .Carefully insert the new bottom bearing and, holding it in place, slide the whole knuckle onto the hub. Fill the Knuckle with 100ml of grease, Suzuki recommend only 100ml and not to overfill. Now the KingPins need to be inserted, but first they need a bead of sealant around the KingPin. Again the BigJimny shop sells suitable sealant.
Make sure that you have put the correct Kingpin in place, remember you should have marked them when you dismantled it!

Bolt the Kingpins in and tighten them to the correct torque (18ft/lbs)

Refit the steering arm (or arms if it is the side with two connections), tightening the nuts to 31ft/lbs


Fit the disk and fit the caliper (Caliper bolts 61ft/lbs), brake pads and bolt the caliper down in position (Caliper pin bolt 16/ft/lbs)

Re-fit the wheel and lower the vehicle.

Torque Settings

Full details of the torque settings can be found in the reference data

Page last edited on 3/06/2016 by user Mlines

Retrieved from ‘http://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Martins_Test&oldid=540’