Difference between revisions of "Martins Test"

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== Buying a Jimny ==
 
  
−
=== Before you buy ===
+
= Fitting a Cabin/Pollen Filter =
  
−
* Take one for a test drive, compared to modern cars even the most recent Jimnys feel primitive.
+
== Introduction ==
−
* Buy one in the Spring and sell one in the Winter, everyone wants a 4x4 when the snow falls so prices are higher in the winter.
+
I wouldn’t mind betting that most people do not realise that the Jimny has a pollen filter or at least has the facility for a pollen filter. Most manuals never refer to it, even in the Service Guide.
 +
I would also bet that most people, particularly those who drive off-road, are tired of the clouds of leaves that hit you in the face when you open the facia vents.
 +
Fitting a pollen filter is straight forward once you know where it is hidden.
 +
First you need a pollen filter [See the BigJimny Shop [http://www.bigjimny.com/store/index.php?_a=product&product_id=193 Filter]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
[[File:Cabin_filter.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Cabin Filter]]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
Also note that it is common to break the filter cover when removing it as the plastic becomes brittle, you may wish to consider buying a spare cover at the same time (See the BigJimny Shop [http://www.bigjimny.com/store/index.php?_a=product&product_id=200 Cover]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
[[File:Filter_cover.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Cabin Filter]]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
----
 +
 
 +
== Changing/Installing a Filter ==
 +
=== Tools ===
 +
{{tools|<ul><li>Assorted screwdrivers or blade</li></ul>
 +
<br>
 +
}}
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
{{warning!I cannot emphasis too strongly how easy it is to break the old cover!}}
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=== Removing the Caliper and pads ===
 +
[[File:Footwell.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Passenger footwell]]
 +
Here is the filter cover, up underneath the dashboard on the passenger side of the vehicle
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
[[File:Filter_position.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Here is the cover in the footwell]]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Remove_glovebox.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Open brake caliper]]
 +
First remove the glovebox, this is done by flexing the sidewalls so the plastic retaining lugs can drop past the edge of the fascia. Lower the whole glovebox away. I am using a screwdriver with the end protected by a cloth to stop it marking the fascia as I use it to prise away the retaining lugs.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Removing_pads.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Removing the brake pads]]
 +
The pads are retained by small spring clips, a simple pull on the pads (horizontally away from the disk) should remove them (or gently prise out the pads with a small screwdriver - do not remove the spring clips). If you require new [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/front-brake-pads-aisin-suzuki-jimny.html pads], [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/front-pad-fitting-kit.html spring clips] or a [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/caliper-fitting-kit-aisin-suzuki-jimny.html caliper fitting kit] then these are available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/ BigJimny Store].
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=== Removing the Brake Disc ===
 +
 
 +
[[File:Carrier_bolt.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Carrier bolt]]
 +
The caliper is held on with two bolts at the rear (see below).
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Carrier_to_spring.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Caliper tied to Spring]]
 +
Release the bolts and tie the caliper to the spring to keep it out of the way.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Disc_removal.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Disc removal using bolt]]
 +
Now the front brake disc can be removed. If you are lucky it will simply pull off but if you have problems then there are two M8 holes in the disk hub. Simply run two bolts into these holes and the disk will push off the hub. The picture below shows a bolt being used to push the disk off the hub.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
My disk appeared to be ok on the visible side but the rear showed some bad wear so I will change them as part of this job. New [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/brake-disc-suzuki-jimny-107mm.html disks] are available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/ BigJimny Store].
 +
<gallery widths=250 heights=250>
 +
Disc_front.jpg
 +
Disk_rear.jpg
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
=== General Points ===
+
=== Dismantling the Hub ===
  
−
* The main issue with Jimnys is rust, depending on the year/model etc some had rust protection but others did not. As the vehicle is chassis based it can pass a UK MOT test with quite a bit of rust unless the rust is around the body and seat mounting points.
+
[[File:freewheelinghub.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Torx bolt on hub]]
−
** Try and look behind the front headlamps, underneath the lamps and splashguard, this is a rust point and is near the front body mounts.
+
Now the Freewheeling Hub needs to be removed. Suzuki have used Torx bolts to secure these so you will require an E10 socket to remove the bolts.
−
** Lift any carpet in the boot and look into the small pan where the tools/jack are stored, this can rust out, particularly on soft-tops.
+
<br clear=all>
−
** Check the boot floor in general, this can rust through and is the most common issue. This is a real problem for older Jimnys.
+
[[File:hubcirclip.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Removing the circlip]]
−
** Check around the seat belt mounting points for rust.
+
With the hub removed the driveshaft is exposed. The driveshaft is retained with a circlip so use a pair of circlip pliers to remove it. This is really fiddly and can be an annoying task. Behind the circlip is a rectangular washer that should also be removed. Note that I have also marked with white paint the orientation of the freewheeling hub, this is not strictly needed.
−
** Check around the plastic trim, particularly on the sills as rust hides behind.
+
<br clear=all>
−
** Check the brackets which connect the arms holding the axle in place, these rust at the axle and at the chassis end.
+
[[File:vacuumpipe.jpg|thumb|250px|left|removing a vacuum pipe]]
−
* Kingpin bearings
+
Gently pull the two vacuum hoses for the hub from the knuckle making sure you note which one connects to each pipe. It is essential that you get this correct else the hub will not work again. Also note that if you have an ABS equipped vehicle then you will have to remove the sensor. I do not have photos of this but the video shows it. IT IS REALLY EASY TO SHEAR THE ABS BOLT - if you can I would soak it for a couple of days previously in penetrating oil.
−
** A common issue on live axle 4x4s. These corrode and wear quickly. It is almost inevitable that you will have to change them at some point.
+
<br clear=all>
−
** When buying take that vital test drive and check for steering wobble around 45 - 50 mph. see [[Death_Wobble|Death Wobble]]
+
[[File:swivelsealbolts.jpg|thumb|250x250px|left|Removing the swivel seal bolts]]
−
** Worn Kingpin Bearings are not the end of the world see: [[Kingpin_Bearing_Change| Changing the Kinpin Bearings]]
+
At the rear of the hub release the small bolts holding the seal and retainer. You can see that the swivel hub is covered in oil, a bad sign for KingPin problems.
−
** Beware of ex-Landrover mechanics, they can insist that the Swivel joint should be filled with oil (Yes for Landrovers, NO for Suzuki)
+
<br clear=all>
−
* Corroded Balls
+
[[File:balljointsplitter.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Splitting the ball joint]]
−
** Again a Landrover issue where the chrome balls are vital. NOT a Suzuki issue, simply fill them smooth and paint.
+
Undo the nuts on the steering joints, if the joint rotates then put a jack under the joint and lift the car slightly to lock the joint. Using a splitter, split the steering joints (two to do on the passenger side and one on the drivers side – UK).
−
* Worn Transfer chains. Be mean to the car on its test drive, dump the clutch at high revs in 1st and listen for a very loud BRRR! noise with no car movement. (Transfer boxes are quite cheap on the scrap market - no point in changing the chain)
+
<br clear=all>
−
* 4WD - Check it works. Find a loose surface and try engaging it. Listen for loud clicks to confirm hubs have engaged. You cannot drive in 4WD on the road in dry conditions in a Jimny as it is [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-wheel_drive#Part-time part time 4WD] and damages the car.
+
[[File:kingpinbolts.jpg|thumb|250px|left|undoing the Kingpin bolts]]
−
* Vacuum Hubs (see 4WD above). These fail regularly as they are not used often. A simple clean and service will fix most issues.
+
Finally, release the KingPin bolts themselves. There are two sets, top and bottom and they must not be mixed up so you can see in the picture that I have marked them up with a letter T. If you are doing both sides at once then do not mix them across either!.
−
* Worn trailing arm mounts. A clunk from the rear as you pull away in 1st gear. Sometimes it just loose bolts, other times the mounting hole has worn away which will rquire welding.
+
<br clear=all>
 +
The KingPins are also held in with sticky sealant so you will need to prise them out. The hub will now pull off. Beware, if they are badly worn the hub will be full of stinking grease, oil and water so make sure you can capture the mess in something. This is the bit I hate because of the smell!.
 +
That’s water pouring out of the axle! Also shown is a worn out bearing.
 +
<gallery widths=250px heights=250px>
 +
leakingswivel1.jpg
 +
leakingswivel2.jpg
 +
wornbearing.jpg
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
The bearings are Koyo brand as standard. The BigJimny store has two kits available, the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/kingpin-bearing-kit-suzuki-jimny-koyo.html basic kit] has the two bearings and the small oil seal required to do one side. The [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/kingpin-bearing/seal-kit-suzuki-jimny.html full kit] also included the large external seal although some people choose not to change this. The thing to remember is that it is not a Landrover which has oil filled swivels. The joints on Jimnys should be "dry" apart from some lubricating grease.
  
−
=== G13B Specifics ===
+
The next stage is to CLEAN, CLEAN and then CLEAN again. Clean the swivels inside and out, clean the knuckles and pull out the drive shaft and clean that as well.
−
* These have a traditional cam-belt, make sure its been changed at the correct intervals.
+
 
 +
=== The rebuild ===
 +
 
 +
[[File:outerrace.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The old bearing race]]
 +
Once clean you can start the rebuild process. The KingPin bearings come in two parts, the race and an outer ring. This ring is still in the swivel and needs driving out.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
[[File:Remove Bearing Race.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Removing the bearing race]]
 +
A simple way to drive them out is to use a 1" Imperial socket. Using an extension bar fed through the swivel place the 1" Socket behind the ring and drive it out by hitting it. (picture from Dave at [http://www.bits4vits.co.uk Bits4Vits]
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
==== Soft-top Specifics ====
+
The new rings can then be driven into place with a piece of wood to protect them from the hammer, again this is seen in the video {{color|green|(''picture needed here'')}}.  
−
* The Soft-top retained the G13B until the end with some late registrations in 2005
 
−
* There are some M13A engined soft-tops around but these seem to be rare and an anomaly.
 
−
* The soft-top frames suffer considerable corrosion at the front, Suzuki no longer make these parts and getting hold of replacements is extremely difficult
 
−
* New soft tops can be bought from [http://www.monsooncarhoods.co.uk/suzuki-jimny-soft-top-hood Monsoon] in the UK. They have a reputation for good quality.
 
−
* There is a removable hard-top available to replace a soft-top during winter.
 
  
−
[[File:Hardtop.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Suzuki Jimny Hardtop]]
+
I also hooked out the small axle shaft oil seal and put a new one in from the BigJimny kit. {{color|green|(''picture needed here'')}}.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
[[File:rebuiltswivel.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The rebuilt swivel]]
 +
Here is the completed swivel with new rings and oil seal (and plenty of copper grease to help them all into place.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
If you are changing the large seal then now is the time to put the new one on. The confusing part is the order of the seals and rings on the swivel, the picture below is of the correct orientation, note also that the slits in the retainers go to the top.
 +
<gallery widths=250 heights=250>
 +
seal1.jpg
 +
seal2.jpg
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
[[File:cvjoint.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The greased CV joint]]
 +
Pack the CV with grease (but do not overpack) and re-fit the driveshaft. A suitable [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/waterproof-grease.html waterproof grease] is available in the BigJimny Shop.
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
=== M13A Specifics ===
+
[[File:sealant.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Applying sealant]]
−
* These have a cam chain which DOES NOT require changing
+
Grease the new KingPin bearings and insert the top one in the carrier. I find the easiest way to grease the bearings is to put them in a polythene bag with some grease and use thebag to squeeze the grease into the bearing, this can be seen in the video. (''picture needed here'') .Carefully insert the new bottom bearing and, holding it in place, slide the whole knuckle onto the hub. Fill the Knuckle with 100ml of grease, Suzuki recommend only 100ml and not to overfill. Now the KingPins need to be inserted, but first they need a bead of sealant around the KingPin. Again the BigJimny shop sells suitable [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/loctite-premium-copper/silicone-sealant.html sealant].
−
=== M13A VVT Specifics ===
+
<br clear=all>
−
* VVT Engine is nice and no real issues
+
Make sure that you have put the correct Kingpin in place, remember you should have marked them when you dismantled it!
−
* These vehicles had a new style gearbox for a few years which gives issues. Check carefully for a noise in 3rd or 4th Gear. About £700 to repair if an issue occurs.
 
−
* Electronic Transfer box, ok for average users but not liked if you are modifying the Jimny.
 
  
−
=== K9K Diesel Specifics ===
+
Bolt the Kingpins in and tighten them to the correct torque (18ft/lbs)
 +
 
 +
Refit the steering arm (or arms if it is the side with two connections), tightening the nuts to 31ft/lbs
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Fit the disk and fit the caliper (Caliper bolts 61ft/lbs), brake pads and bolt the caliper down in position (Caliper pin bolt 16/ft/lbs)
 +
 
 +
Re-fit the wheel and lower the vehicle.
 +
 
 +
=== Torque Settings ===
 +
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#Front_Hub | reference data]]
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
=== Automatic Specifics ===
+
{{Edited}}
−
* Make sure they change smoothly and go through all the gears correctly. They love fresh AT Fluid and need changing and topping up otherwise changing is poor and top gear fails to select.
+
[[Category:Howto]]

Revision as of 18:01, 17 May 2016


Fitting a Cabin/Pollen Filter

Introduction

I wouldn’t mind betting that most people do not realise that the Jimny has a pollen filter or at least has the facility for a pollen filter. Most manuals never refer to it, even in the Service Guide. I would also bet that most people, particularly those who drive off-road, are tired of the clouds of leaves that hit you in the face when you open the facia vents. Fitting a pollen filter is straight forward once you know where it is hidden. First you need a pollen filter [See the BigJimny Shop Filter

File:Cabin filter.jpg
Cabin Filter


Also note that it is common to break the filter cover when removing it as the plastic becomes brittle, you may wish to consider buying a spare cover at the same time (See the BigJimny Shop Cover

Cabin Filter


Changing/Installing a Filter

Tools

Spanner Icon.png
  • Assorted screwdrivers or blade



Template:Warning!I cannot emphasis too strongly how easy it is to break the old cover!

Removing the Caliper and pads

Passenger footwell

Here is the filter cover, up underneath the dashboard on the passenger side of the vehicle

Here is the cover in the footwell


Open brake caliper

First remove the glovebox, this is done by flexing the sidewalls so the plastic retaining lugs can drop past the edge of the fascia. Lower the whole glovebox away. I am using a screwdriver with the end protected by a cloth to stop it marking the fascia as I use it to prise away the retaining lugs.

Removing the brake pads

The pads are retained by small spring clips, a simple pull on the pads (horizontally away from the disk) should remove them (or gently prise out the pads with a small screwdriver - do not remove the spring clips). If you require new pads, spring clips or a caliper fitting kit then these are available in the BigJimny Store.

Removing the Brake Disc

Carrier bolt

The caliper is held on with two bolts at the rear (see below).

Caliper tied to Spring

Release the bolts and tie the caliper to the spring to keep it out of the way.

Disc removal using bolt

Now the front brake disc can be removed. If you are lucky it will simply pull off but if you have problems then there are two M8 holes in the disk hub. Simply run two bolts into these holes and the disk will push off the hub. The picture below shows a bolt being used to push the disk off the hub.

My disk appeared to be ok on the visible side but the rear showed some bad wear so I will change them as part of this job. New disks are available in the BigJimny Store.

  • Disc front.jpg
  • Disk rear.jpg


Dismantling the Hub

Torx bolt on hub

Now the Freewheeling Hub needs to be removed. Suzuki have used Torx bolts to secure these so you will require an E10 socket to remove the bolts.

Removing the circlip

With the hub removed the driveshaft is exposed. The driveshaft is retained with a circlip so use a pair of circlip pliers to remove it. This is really fiddly and can be an annoying task. Behind the circlip is a rectangular washer that should also be removed. Note that I have also marked with white paint the orientation of the freewheeling hub, this is not strictly needed.

removing a vacuum pipe

Gently pull the two vacuum hoses for the hub from the knuckle making sure you note which one connects to each pipe. It is essential that you get this correct else the hub will not work again. Also note that if you have an ABS equipped vehicle then you will have to remove the sensor. I do not have photos of this but the video shows it. IT IS REALLY EASY TO SHEAR THE ABS BOLT - if you can I would soak it for a couple of days previously in penetrating oil.

Removing the swivel seal bolts

At the rear of the hub release the small bolts holding the seal and retainer. You can see that the swivel hub is covered in oil, a bad sign for KingPin problems.

Splitting the ball joint

Undo the nuts on the steering joints, if the joint rotates then put a jack under the joint and lift the car slightly to lock the joint. Using a splitter, split the steering joints (two to do on the passenger side and one on the drivers side – UK).

undoing the Kingpin bolts

Finally, release the KingPin bolts themselves. There are two sets, top and bottom and they must not be mixed up so you can see in the picture that I have marked them up with a letter T. If you are doing both sides at once then do not mix them across either!.
The KingPins are also held in with sticky sealant so you will need to prise them out. The hub will now pull off. Beware, if they are badly worn the hub will be full of stinking grease, oil and water so make sure you can capture the mess in something. This is the bit I hate because of the smell!. That’s water pouring out of the axle! Also shown is a worn out bearing.

  • Leakingswivel1.jpg
  • Leakingswivel2.jpg
  • Wornbearing.jpg


The bearings are Koyo brand as standard. The BigJimny store has two kits available, the basic kit has the two bearings and the small oil seal required to do one side. The full kit also included the large external seal although some people choose not to change this. The thing to remember is that it is not a Landrover which has oil filled swivels. The joints on Jimnys should be "dry" apart from some lubricating grease.

The next stage is to CLEAN, CLEAN and then CLEAN again. Clean the swivels inside and out, clean the knuckles and pull out the drive shaft and clean that as well.

The rebuild

The old bearing race

Once clean you can start the rebuild process. The KingPin bearings come in two parts, the race and an outer ring. This ring is still in the swivel and needs driving out.

Removing the bearing race

A simple way to drive them out is to use a 1" Imperial socket. Using an extension bar fed through the swivel place the 1" Socket behind the ring and drive it out by hitting it. (picture from Dave at Bits4Vits

The new rings can then be driven into place with a piece of wood to protect them from the hammer, again this is seen in the video (picture needed here).

I also hooked out the small axle shaft oil seal and put a new one in from the BigJimny kit. (picture needed here).

The rebuilt swivel

Here is the completed swivel with new rings and oil seal (and plenty of copper grease to help them all into place.
If you are changing the large seal then now is the time to put the new one on. The confusing part is the order of the seals and rings on the swivel, the picture below is of the correct orientation, note also that the slits in the retainers go to the top.

  • Seal1.jpg
  • Seal2.jpg


The greased CV joint

Pack the CV with grease (but do not overpack) and re-fit the driveshaft. A suitable waterproof grease is available in the BigJimny Shop.

Applying sealant

Grease the new KingPin bearings and insert the top one in the carrier. I find the easiest way to grease the bearings is to put them in a polythene bag with some grease and use thebag to squeeze the grease into the bearing, this can be seen in the video. (picture needed here) .Carefully insert the new bottom bearing and, holding it in place, slide the whole knuckle onto the hub. Fill the Knuckle with 100ml of grease, Suzuki recommend only 100ml and not to overfill. Now the KingPins need to be inserted, but first they need a bead of sealant around the KingPin. Again the BigJimny shop sells suitable sealant.
Make sure that you have put the correct Kingpin in place, remember you should have marked them when you dismantled it!

Bolt the Kingpins in and tighten them to the correct torque (18ft/lbs)

Refit the steering arm (or arms if it is the side with two connections), tightening the nuts to 31ft/lbs


Fit the disk and fit the caliper (Caliper bolts 61ft/lbs), brake pads and bolt the caliper down in position (Caliper pin bolt 16/ft/lbs)

Re-fit the wheel and lower the vehicle.

Torque Settings

Full details of the torque settings can be found in the reference data

Page last edited on 17/05/2016 by user Mlines

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