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| − | {{intro-notes}}
| + | #REDIRECT [[Key, immobilizer, remote locking transmitter, alarm]] |
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| − | | + | All the content of this article has been transferred into the article above. |
| − | == Introduction ==
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| − | In some markets an Immobiliser system is fitted. Whilst the actions you can perform on this system are limited (for security reasons!), Suzuki provide access to the diagnostics so you can at least understand where any issue might be.
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| − | The immobiliser consists of 4 main parts of which 3 are "active" ie. contain a level of intelligence.
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| − | 1. The key. This contains a small coded chip in the form of a tiny black rectangle. This is activated by a radio signal and does NOT require a battery. In keys with batteries these are for the remote lock/unlock facility and does not affect chip operation. However when changing the batteries (or renewing the key case) do not lose the chip!.
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| − | 2. The Coil Antenna - this is the only passive part of the system. It is looped around the ignition key barrel and senses the chip in the key. It transmits a pulse to power the chip in the key and then passes the response to the Immobiliser unit.
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| − | 3. Immobiliser unit. This reads the key code coming from the antenna and compares it with a list of up to 4 keys registered in its memory. It also talks to the ECU as well, exchanging its own internal secret code number and the ECUs secret number. Only if the key code, the immobiliser secret number and ECU secret number are all as stored in the memory will it let the ECU start the engine
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| − | 4. ECU. This starts the engine but only when permitted by the immobiliser. It also checks the secret code received from the immobiliser and only proceeds if this code is matched to the one in its memory. If starting is not permitted then the ECU disables the injectors and the spark ignition.
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| − | In summary, the keys, the immobiliser and the ECU are all matched together and changing ANY one requires re-coding of the system. The re-coding can only be done using the Suzuki proprietary scan tool.
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| − | However, as stated, the diagnostic codes can be read using the following instructions.
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| − | == Preparing the read-out ==
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| − | 1. The ECU.
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| − | The read-out of the error codes from the ABS computer is achieved by shorting out pins on a small connector located behind the dashboard. It is on the drivers side (both for Right Hand Drive and Left Hand Drive) behind the steering wheel, on the side of the steering wheel nearest the door.
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| − | Therefore, on vehicles with the steering wheel on the proper side (RHD) it is behind the dashboard behind the drivers right hand when it is holding the steering wheel.
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| − | If you are in one of those Jimnys with the steering wheel on the wrong side (a legacy of being invaded by Napoleon) then it is behind the dashboard behind the drivers left hand when it is holding the steering wheel.
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| − | It is a Blue colour connector with a PINK wire (with black stripe) and a Black wire and SIX connector positions but only two in use.
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| − | [[File:ABS Diagnostic plug.jpg|center|thumb|ABS Diagnostic plug]]
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| − | [[File:Diagnostic connector pins.jpg|center|thumb|Diagnostic connections]]
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| − | == Reading the codes ==
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| − | To read the codes:
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| − | # Drive the vehicle at over 30 mph for at least 1 minute.
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| − | # Stop, switch off ignition.
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| − | # Using a piece of wire, short the two pins in the connector together.
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| − | #* ''Variation: Early models (with G13BB engine) require you to remove the ABS diode (pull it out) at this point, this is not shown in the picture (does anyone have a picture of the diode??)''
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| − | # Turn on the ignition.
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| − | The ABS light will now flash a code to tell you the fault, the flashing repeats itself.
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| − | The code is a two digit code so will flash the first digit, pause for 1 second and then flash the second digit, then after a 3 second delay it will repeat.
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| − | {{note|Иf more than one code is stored then all the codes will sequence through}}
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| − | The codes are:
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| − | {| class="wikitable"
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| − | !Code
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| − | !Reason
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| − | |-
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| − | |12
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| − | |Normal
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| − | |-
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| − | |15
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| − | |G sensor circuit fault
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| − | |-
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| − | |16
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| − | |Stop lamp switch circuit fault
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| − | |-
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| − | |21 or 22
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| − | |Righthand Front sensor fault
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| − | |-
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| − | |25 or 26
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| − | |Lefthand Front sensor fault
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| − | |-
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| − | |31 or 32
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| − | |Righthand Rear sensor fault
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| − | |-
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| − | |35 or 36
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| − | |Lefthand Rear sensor fault
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| − | |-
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| − | |41
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| − | |Right front Hold solenoid valve
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| − | |-
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| − | |42
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| − | |Right front Release solenoid valve
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| − | |-
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| − | |45
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| − | |Left front Hold solenoid valve
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| − | |-
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| − | |46
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| − | |Left front Release solenoid valve
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| − | |-
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| − | |55
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| − | |Rear Hold solenoid valve
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| − | |-
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| − | |56
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| − | |Rear Release solenoid valve
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| − | |-
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| − | |57
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| − | |Power source issue
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| − | |-
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| − | |61
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| − | |ABS Pump motor circuit
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| − | |-
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| − | |63
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| − | |ABS Solenoid valve circuit
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| − | |-
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| − | |71
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| − | |ABS control module
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| − | |}
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| − | Once complete, remove the wire.
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| − | {{note|Don't forget to return the diode back into position if you removed it !}}
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| − | == Clearing codes ==
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| − | To clear the codes:
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| − | # Switch off ignition.
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| − | # Using a piece of wire, short the two pins in the connector together.
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| − | # Turn on the ignition.
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| − | # Pull and remake the wire link at least 5 times within a 10 second period.
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| − | # Turn off ignition and remove the wire.
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| − | To be certain that the clearing has been successfully performed, you can repeat the "reading the codes" procedure above to confirm that the code is now "12" = ''normal''.
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| − | {{Edited}}
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| − | [[Category:Howto]]
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| − | [[Category:Electrical]]
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