Subwoofer speaker installation (Jimny 4) - Revision history

Bosanek: Added mention of possible OEM subwoofer and installation kit

2019-12-02T07:23:55Z

Added mention of possible OEM subwoofer and installation kit

Bosanek: Bosanek moved page Aftermarket subwoofer installation (Jimny 4) to Subwoofer speaker installation (Jimny 4): The title now starts with the "key word" by which most readers would look for it in the alphabetical list of articles

2019-12-02T07:21:32Z

Bosanek moved page Aftermarket subwoofer installation (Jimny 4) to Subwoofer speaker installation (Jimny 4): The title now starts with the "key word" by which most readers would look for it in the alphabetical list of articles

Bosanek: Added the article into the gen4 infotainment category

2019-12-02T07:17:34Z

Added the article into the gen4 infotainment category

Tom at 19:14, 20 November 2019

2019-11-20T19:14:37Z

Tom at 19:13, 20 November 2019

2019-11-20T19:13:02Z

Tom at 22:00, 19 November 2019

2019-11-19T22:00:04Z

Tom at 21:38, 19 November 2019

2019-11-19T21:38:17Z

Tom: Created page with "{{intro-notes}} == Introduction == {{Gen4|}} This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the re..."

2019-11-19T21:05:49Z

Created page with "{{intro-notes}} == Introduction == {{Gen4|}} This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the re..."

New page

{{intro-notes}}

== Introduction ==
{{Gen4|}}

This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only

The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment)

== Tools needed ==
{{Gen4|}}

* Large flat head screwdriver;
* Small flat head screwdriver;
* 10 mm socket & driver/ratchet;
* #2 Philips screwdriver;
* Electrical tape;
* Suitable tool to pry plastic trim;
* Wire cutter;
* Wire insulation stripper;

* For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide)
** Soldering iron;
** Solder;
** Heat shrink;

* For those who prefer detachable wire connections:
** Suitable cable connectors;
** Wire crimper;

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:23, 2 December 2019
Line 7:		Line 7:
	This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only.		This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only.

−	The ~~model~~ I~~'ve~~ used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).	+	This guide is based on the installation of an aftermarket subwoofer speaker. If Suzuki does offer an OEM subwoofer with an installation kit, someone should mention the part numbers and describe the installation procedure in a separate chapter of this article.
		+
		+
		+	The aftermarket subwoofer that I used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 {{intro-notes}}
 == Introduction ==
 {{Gen4|}}
-This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only
+This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only.
 The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).
 == Tools needed ==
 * Large flat head screwdriver;
 * Small flat head screwdriver;
@@ Line 17: / Line 21: @@
 * Wire cutter;
 * Wire insulation stripper;
 * For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide)
 ** Soldering iron;
 ** Solder;
-** Heat shrink;
+** Heat shrink tubing;
 * For those who prefer detachable wire connections:
 ** Suitable cable connectors;
 ** Wire crimper;
 == Extra parts needed ==
 *2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire
 *1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type)
-*1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4)
+* 2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire;
 == Supplied cables ==
 [[File:Jimny4sub1.JPG|400px|thumb|left|]]
@@ Line 40: / Line 51: @@
 '''Power:'''
-*Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell
+* Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell.
-*Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected
+* Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected.
-*Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell
+* Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell.
 The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead.
 '''Speaker input:'''
-*White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers +
+* White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers +
-*White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers -
+* White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers -
-Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run and more importantly when fitting the rear speaker an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker, this means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring.
+Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input, only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run. More importantly, when fitting the rear speaker, an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker. This means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring.
 If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will need to be run to the other rear speaker.
 '''Remote:'''
-The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly
+The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly.
 == Trim removal ==
 This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in this guide: [[Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)]]
-*Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull)
+* Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull);
-*Remove the glovebox
+* Remove the glove box;
-*Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker
+* Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker;
 == Power cable installation ==
 [[File:Jimny4sub2.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]
-*With the seat pushed forward, find the existing cable hole in the carpet.
+* With the seat pushed forward, find the existing cable hole in the carpet.
-*The route between here and the door isn’t that easy so I first pushed some mains cable through (or anything stiff and flexible) to use as a draw wire.
+* The route between here and the door isn’t that easy so I first pushed some mains cable through (or anything stiff and flexible) to use as a draw wire.
 <br clear=all>
 [[File:Jimny4sub3.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]
-*Tape on the cables and pull the draw wire out the other side.
+* Tape on the cables and pull the draw wire out the other side.
 [[File:Jimny4sub4.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]
-*The ground wire can now be connected to the chassis in the footwell next to the door.
+* The ground wire can now be connected to the chassis in the footwell next to the door.
-*There is a 10mm bolt that can be used that already has a few ground wires connected.
+* There is a 10mm bolt that can be used that already has a few ground wires connected.
 <br clear=all>
 [[File:Jimny4sub5.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]
-*For the best connection use a stud hole crimp.
+* For the best connection use a stud hole crimp.
 <br clear=all>
 [[File:Jimny4sub6.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]
-*Undo the plastic screws holding the carpet down
+* Undo the plastic screws holding the carpet down
-*Run the yellow cable under the carpet to the passenger footwell fuse box.
+* Run the yellow cable under the carpet to the passenger footwell fuse box.
-*Leave the yellow wire to be connected later on.
+* Leave the yellow wire to be connected later on.

@@ Line 85: / Line 85: @@
 <br clear=all>
-[[File:Jimny4sub4.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]
+[[File:Jimny4sub5.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]
 *For the best connection use a stud hole crimp.

@@ Line 33: / Line 33: @@
 == Supplied cables ==
 The sub is supplied with 3 main set of cables
@@ Line 47: / Line 51: @@
 Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run and more importantly when fitting the rear speaker an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker, this means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring.
-If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will be needed to run to the other rear speaker.
+If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will need to be run to the other rear speaker.
 '''Remote:'''
@@ Line 55: / Line 59: @@
 == Trim removal ==
-This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in these guides:
+This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in this guide: [[Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)]]
 *Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull)
 *Remove the glovebox
 *Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:00, 19 November 2019
Line 47:		Line 47:

	Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run and more importantly when fitting the rear speaker an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker, this means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring.		Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run and more importantly when fitting the rear speaker an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker, this means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring.
		+	If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will be needed to run to the other rear speaker.
		+
		+	'''Remote:'''
		+
		+	The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly
		+
		+	== Trim removal ==
		+
		+	This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in these guides:
		+	[[Front speaker upgrade (Jimny 4)]]
		+	[[Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)]]
		+
		+	*Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull)
		+	*Remove the glovebox
		+	*Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker