Sound insulation and vibration damping - Revision history

Bosanek: Added the article into gen2 categories

2021-01-17T13:03:32Z

Added the article into gen2 categories

Bosanek: Additional notes about layer 2 and layer 3

2020-03-04T09:32:30Z

Additional notes about layer 2 and layer 3

Bosanek: Wrote the chapter about layer 3

2020-03-04T09:11:02Z

Wrote the chapter about layer 3

Bosanek: Wrote the chapter about layer 2

2020-02-28T06:52:08Z

Wrote the chapter about layer 2

Bosanek: Moved the chapter of recommended additional works into a separate wiki article

2019-07-14T11:59:43Z

Moved the chapter of recommended additional works into a separate wiki article

Bosanek: Typo

2019-07-14T07:22:38Z

Typo

Bosanek: Link correction

2019-07-14T07:21:53Z

Link correction

Bosanek: More recommended additional works

2019-07-14T06:39:06Z

More recommended additional works

Bosanek: More recommended additional works

2019-07-14T06:23:54Z

More recommended additional works

Bosanek: More recommended additional works

2019-07-12T10:05:30Z

More recommended additional works

@@ Line 554: / Line 554: @@
 {{Edited}}
 [[Category:Modifications - gen3]]
 [[Category:Modifications - gen4]]

@@ Line 348: / Line 348: @@
-The primary purpose of the 2nd layer is to decouple the 3rd layer from the base surface (including the 1st layer), so that any surface vibrations (which can still occur) do not entice the heavy 3rd layer to also begin vibrating.
+The primary purpose of the 2nd layer is to decouple the 3rd layer from the base surface (including the 1st layer), so that any surface vibrations (which can still occur in an (off)road going vehicle no matter how much of 1st layer is present) do not entice the heavy 3rd layer to also begin vibrating.
 The secondary purpose of the 2nd layer is to provide thermal insulation.
 The tertiary purpose of the 2nd layer is to absorb sounds - both those coming from outside into vehicle's cabin, and particularly those originating from inside the cabin. Absorption of interior sounds reduces reverberation and echo and therefore creates "softer" sounding interior environment when speaking, singing, yelling, listening to music, and also softens all the "technical" sounds like engine and exhaust noise. It is a similar "softening" effect as after an empty room gets filled with floor carpet and furniture.
@@ Line 448: / Line 453: @@
 The purpose of the final layer is to block the sounds.
 The only thing which blocks the sounds is mass. The heavier (denser) an object is, the stronger sounds it can block. Steel and concrete for example are excellent sound blockers. However, if a material (like those two) is stiff, there is a risk with lower frequencies of a side effect contrary to sound blocking - sound enhancing. That is when a stiff sound blocker starts resonating and enhancing the vibration (strong low frequency sound), instead of blocking it. That is why concrete building apartments are notorious for transmitting every trump, bump and hit created in them throughout the other apartments in the building.
 Therefore, a proper sound blocker needs to be very heavy (dense) but not stiff. Lead is a very good material which has both of these properties - extremely dense, still relatively stiff but a lot less than other metals. Lead is used as a sound blocker in many industrial applications, but is limited to uses where it is sealed off from coming into contact with living beings, because of its toxicity.
 Another quite heavy and quite flexible material is mass loaded vinyl. That is vinyl which is imbued with a very dense material, usually barium sulfate. Vinyl is already relatively heavy but more importantly, is quite flexible. When combined with very heavy and non-toxic barium sulfate, the resulting material gets the best of both worlds.
 Therefore, mass loaded vinyl (MLV) is the material of choice as a layer 3 material (sound blocker), especially for automotive applications.
@@ Line 480: / Line 489: @@
 * Some MLVs are made pre-glued with a layer 2 material (vibration decoupler) - usually CCF.
 * The thickness of pre-glued CCF depends on the product, but usually varies between 3 mm and 10 mm.
-* While such "combo" CCF+MLV products are usually more expensive than separate MLV and CCF products, they can save considerable installation time, as in most cases you need to put CCF under MLV anyway. When installing CCF and MLV separately, you have to cut and conform both products separately to the surface. With a combined CCF+MLV product, this (sometimes tedious) installation process is done only once.
+* While such "combo" CCF+MLV products are usually more expensive than separate MLV and CCF products, they can save considerable installation time, as in most cases you need to put CCF under MLV anyway (as a thermal insulator and as a vibration decoupler). When installing CCF and MLV separately, you have to cut and conform both products separately to the surface. With a combined CCF+MLV product, this (sometimes tedious) installation process is done only once.

@@ Line 421: / Line 421: @@
 # Some sound blocking properties;
 #* Sound frequency blocking range is highly dependent on foam thickness;
-# Very good thermal insulating properties;
+# Exceptionally good thermal insulating properties;
 # Very good decoupling performance (if not under strong pressure);
 # Quite light;
@@ Line 441: / Line 441: @@
-=== Layer 3 - MLV ===
+=== Layer 3 - sound blockers ===
-''To be written ... ''
+==== Introduction ====

@@ Line 122: / Line 122: @@
 Those three types of materials /layers are:
 # A "viscoelastic" material - CLD (Constrained Layer Damper);
-# A sound absorbing material - usually a CCF (closed cell foam);
+# A sound absorbing + decoupling material - usually a CCF (closed cell foam);
 # A sound blocking material - usually a MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl);
@@ Line 152: / Line 152: @@
 Therefore, a layman can not discern any practical differences between the two materials.
 Therefore, many people see no reason to pay a premium price for alubutyl CLDs, since they can get classic bitumen CLDs for less than a third of the price.
-The list below will show them all the reasons.
+The list below will show them all the reasons NOT to use bitumen CLDs.
@@ Line 342: / Line 342: @@
-=== Layer 2 - sound absorbers ===
+=== Layer 2 - sound absorbers + surface decouplers ===
-''To be written ... ''
+==== Introduction ====

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:59, 14 July 2019
Line 357:		Line 357:


−	While ~~you are having~~ all the vehicle's cabin interior dismantled and removed in order to install sound insulation, you might use the opportunity to perform ~~some additional works along the way.~~	+	While all the vehicle's cabin interior is dismantled and removed in order to install sound insulation, you might use the opportunity to perform [[Interior works in cabin while trim is removed\|'''some additional works''']] in the exposed cabin sections along the way.
−
−
−	~~=== For the side doors ===~~
−
−
−	* Installation of [[~~Front speaker upgrade\|'''better front speakers''']];~~
−	** Valid only for Jimny 4;
−	* [[Rust protection\|'''Rust protection''']] of the door cavities through the application of wax for example;
−	* Re-greasing of side door window operating mechanisms;
−
−
−	~~=== For the rear section of the~~ cabin ~~===~~
−
−
−	* Installation of a [[Rear speaker installation\|'''pair of rear speakers''']];
−	* [[Rust protection\|'''Rust protection''']] of the body cavities through the application of wax for example;
−	** Note: Do not apply anything on the areas of the panels on which you intend to apply sound deadening materials!
−	** After applying sound deadening materials and letting them cure for a while~~, you might apply small amounts of wax on any remaining exposed naked parts of the body panels;~~
−	* [[Rear cabin lamp installation\|'''~~Rear cabin lamp installation and wiring~~''']];
−	* Installation of wires for rear parking sensors, tow bar, rear reversing camera, concealed GPS tracking unit, 12 V DC charging outlet in the ~~boot, whatnot, etc.~~
−
−
−	~~=== For the rear door ===~~
−
−
−	* Installation of a rear facing dash camera (on the top of the rear door window);
−	* Preventive maintenance of the [[Window washing system - fluid leakage fix\|'''rear window washing system''']];
−	* If your rear door does not have a key lock in its external handle:
−	** Installation of a handle which contains a key lock (which had been re-keyed to your vehicle's keys);
−	* Re-greasing of door opening and locking mechanisms;
−	* [[Rust protection\|'''Rust protection''']] of the door cavities through the application of wax for example;
−	** Note: Do not apply anything on the areas of the panels on which you intend to apply sound deadening materials!
−	** After applying sound deadening materials and letting them cure for a while, you might apply small amounts of wax on any remaining exposed ~~naked parts of~~ the ~~body panels;~~
−	* Utilitarian modification of the OEM rear door trim or its replacement with aftermarket or DIY made utilitarian rear door trim.
−	** Example functionalities: speaker enclosure, tools holder / hanger, collapsible shelve(s), storage compartment, etc.;
−
−
−	~~=== Clip and wire rattling cushioning ===~~
−
−
−	Whenever you disassemble any trim or molding panels or disconnect any wiring harnesses from the body which were held on by clips, it is also recommended to apply heavy duty reinforced fabric / textile / cloth tape over the mounting hole for each clip (while the clip is removed), and then puncture it with a screwdriver to reopen the hole.
−	* It is also recommended to wrap the cloth tape around wires and wiring looms.
−	* The cloth tape will serve as a cushioning layer which will eliminate any possible rattles and vibrations caused by imperfect clip connections or by wires touching the surrounding surfaces.
−	** An example of a quality cloth tape product is [https://www.tesa.com/en/consumer/tesa-tough-tape.html Tesa 57230].

@@ Line 384: / Line 384: @@
 * Installation of a rear facing dash camera (on the top of the rear door window);
-* Preventive maintenance of the [[Window washing system - fluid leakage fix|'''"rear window washing system"''']];
+* Preventive maintenance of the [[Window washing system - fluid leakage fix|'''rear window washing system''']];
 * If your rear door does not have a key lock in its external handle:
 ** Installation of a handle which contains a key lock (which had been re-keyed to your vehicle's keys);

@@ Line 357: / Line 357: @@
-While you are having the side doors' trim dismantled in order to install sound insulation, you might use the opportunity to perform some additional works along the way:
+While you are having all the vehicle's cabin interior dismantled and removed in order to install sound insulation, you might use the opportunity to perform some additional works along the way.
 * Installation of [[Front speaker upgrade|'''better front speakers''']];
 ** Valid only for Jimny 4;
@@ Line 364: / Line 369: @@
-While you are having the rear interior of the car dismantled in order to install sound insulation, you might use the opportunity to perform some additional modifications along the way:
+=== For the rear section of the cabin ===
 * Installation of a [[Rear speaker installation|'''pair of rear speakers''']];
 * [[Rust protection|'''Rust protection''']] of the body cavities through the application of wax for example;
@@ Line 373: / Line 380: @@
-Also, if you disassemble any trim or molding panels or disconnect any wiring harnesses from the body which were held on by clips, it is also recommended to apply heavy duty reinforced fabric / textile / cloth tape over the mounting hole for each clip (while the clip is removed), and then puncture it with a screwdriver to reopen the hole.
+=== For the rear door ===
 * It is also recommended to wrap the cloth tape around wires and wiring looms.
 * The cloth tape will serve as a cushioning layer which will eliminate any possible rattles and vibrations caused by imperfect clip connections or by wires touching the surrounding surfaces.

@@ Line 374: / Line 374: @@
 Also, if you disassemble any trim or molding panels or disconnect any wiring harnesses from the body which were held on by clips, it is also recommended to apply heavy duty reinforced fabric / textile / cloth tape over the mounting hole for each clip (while the clip is removed), and then puncture it with a screwdriver to reopen the hole.
-* The cloth tape will serve as a cushioning layer which will eliminate any possible rattles and vibrations caused by imperfect clip connections.
+* It is also recommended to wrap the cloth tape around wires and wiring looms.
 ** An example of a quality cloth tape product is [https://www.tesa.com/en/consumer/tesa-tough-tape.html Tesa 57230].

@@ Line 355: / Line 355: @@
 == Recommended additional works ==
@@ Line 360: / Line 367: @@
 * Installation of a [[Rear speaker installation|'''pair of rear speakers''']];
 * [[Rust protection|'''Rust protection''']] of the body cavities through the application of wax for example;
-** Note: Do not apply anything on the panels on which you intend to apply sound deadening materials!
+** Note: Do not apply anything on the areas of the panels on which you intend to apply sound deadening materials!
 ** After applying sound deadening materials and letting them cure for a while, you might apply small amounts of wax on any remaining exposed naked parts of the body panels;
 * [[Rear cabin lamp installation|'''Rear cabin lamp installation and wiring''']];