Painted body elements - Revision history

Bosanek: Corrected instructions about removing front wheel arch moldings

2019-11-26T21:31:32Z

Corrected instructions about removing front wheel arch moldings

Bosanek: Link correction

2019-07-11T13:14:42Z

Link correction

Bosanek: Added a new link

2019-06-13T06:00:16Z

Added a new link

Bosanek: Additional notes on installing vibration deadening materials inside doors

2019-06-12T11:46:31Z

Additional notes on installing vibration deadening materials inside doors

Bosanek: Minor phrase correction

2019-06-12T11:37:45Z

Minor phrase correction

Bosanek: Category adjustment

2019-02-21T14:10:35Z

Category adjustment

Bosanek: A brand new chapter on issues on how to replace side body molding panels

2018-05-16T06:33:36Z

A brand new chapter on issues on how to replace side body molding panels

Bosanek: Minor cleanup

2017-11-20T12:49:30Z

Minor cleanup

Show changes

Bosanek: Added this article to the "Body" category

2017-02-03T19:38:54Z

Added this article to the "Body" category

Bosanek: Added an example of repainted front grille

2017-02-02T15:02:23Z

Added an example of repainted front grille

@@ Line 303: / Line 303: @@
-* These clips are not accessible unless you remove the entire front side metal fender from the car.
+* These clips are not accessible unless you remove the inner wheel arch.
-** If you remove the fender, then it's an easy job to squeeze out each clip.
+** Even then, access to these clips is rather constrained (you don't see what you are doing to them).
-** If you do not remove the fender, you will have to forcibly pull out the plastic molding panel from the fender, and expect at least three broken clips and at least one broken/cracked clip holder in the molding.
+*** The access gets a bit better if you remove the road wheel.
 * Beware that the front wheel arch molding is also held to the fender by a couple of metal screws or plastic rivets which are found in the bottom (underneath the molding) and in the wheel arch edge itself (where the mud flap usually attaches).
 ** Remove the plastic rivets by carefully prying out their center piece with a flat screwdriver and then pulling out the entire rivet.

@@ Line 345: / Line 345: @@
 ** Just make certain that the water drain holes in the bottom of the doors do not get clogged with wax after everything is done.
 * It is also recommended to stick vibration damping (constrained layer damper) material to door panels to greatly improve in-cabin comfort.
-** Read the wiki article [[Sound insulation and deadening|'''"Sound insulation and deadening"''']] for the full details.
+** Read the wiki article [[Sound insulation and vibration damping|'''"Sound insulation and vibration damping"''']] for the full details.
 ** Do this after cleaning the door interiors and ''before'' applying wax inside!

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:00, 13 June 2019
Line 292:		Line 292:
	* If some of the clips holders / mounting points inside the molding panels break or crack, you need to re-weld them carefully with a soldering iron.		* If some of the clips holders / mounting points inside the molding panels break or crack, you need to re-weld them carefully with a soldering iron.
	** It is additionally recommended to reinforce each clip holder inside every molding panel with a coat of some two-component epoxy glue which is designed specifically for plastics.		** It is additionally recommended to reinforce each clip holder inside every molding panel with a coat of some two-component epoxy glue which is designed specifically for plastics.
		+	* It is also recommended to apply heavy duty reinforced fabric / textile / cloth tape over the mounting hole for each clip (when the clip is removed), and then puncture it with a screwdriver to reopen the hole.
		+	** The cloth tape will serve as a cushioning layer which will eliminate any possible rattles and vibrations caused by imperfect clip connections.
		+	** An example of a quality cloth tape product is [https://www.tesa.com/en/consumer/tesa-tough-tape.html Tesa 57230].
		+
		+
		+	{{note\|The wiki article [[Clips and bits for body and trim elements\|'''"Clips and bits for body and trim elements"''']] contains vast details on all the clip types and their parts numbers etc.}}

@@ Line 286: / Line 286: @@
-====== How to deal with the clips ======
+==== How to deal with the clips ====
@@ Line 294: / Line 294: @@
-======= Clips in front wheel arch moldings =======
+===== Clips in front wheel arch moldings =====
@@ Line 304: / Line 304: @@
-======= Clips in rear wheel arch moldings =======
+===== Clips in rear wheel arch moldings =====
@@ Line 315: / Line 315: @@
-======= Clips in side door moldings =======
+===== Clips in side door moldings =====
@@ Line 338: / Line 338: @@
 * With the interior cavities in the doors exposed, it is a good idea to clean and then to rust proof that area with a spray application of automotive wax for example.
 ** Just make certain that the water drain holes in the bottom of the doors do not get clogged with wax after everything is done.
-======= Clips in side door sill moldings =======
+===== Clips in side door sill moldings =====
@@ Line 349: / Line 352: @@
-====== How to deal with the tape ======
+==== How to deal with the tape ====
@@ Line 366: / Line 369: @@
-====== Additional considerations ======
+==== Additional considerations ====
@@ Line 378: / Line 381: @@
 * If the vehicle had endured some collision damage in the past, the side body panels and plastic moldings might have been poorly repaired and just glued/stuck together by some improvised methods by someone.
 ** If you try to separate that, you will probably open Pandora's box of issues and properly returning everything back will be a nightmare!
-* So, if you suspect that your or other person's car has had collision damage to the side body panels in the past, avoid removing any plastic molding from that car!
+* So, if you suspect that your or other person's car has had collision damage to the side body panels in the past, avoid removing any plastic moldings from that car!
@@ Line 392: / Line 395: @@
 * The casings of external mirrors exist in two versions - thinner (older) and thicker (newer). It appears that the change occurred around 2005.
 * There are several designs of spare rim covers and spare wheel covers, but they all fit stock size wheels.
-* The bonnet bulge from a DDiS Jimny is glued to the bonnet and would have to be forcibly removed - high risk of damage. It's better to buy the entire bonnet with the bulge and repaint them.
+* The bonnet bulge from a DDiS Jimny 3 is glued to the bonnet and would have to be forcibly removed - high risk of damage. It's better to buy the entire bonnet with the bulge and repaint them.
-* The bonnet bulge from a post-2012 petrol Jimny is mostly a die-cast single piece with the bonnet, apart from its front end section.
+* The bonnet bulge from a late (2012-2018) petrol Jimny 3 is mostly a die-cast single piece with the bonnet, apart from its front end section.
-* The vinyl soft top, as well as plastic hard top of cabrio Jimnys are the same for all Jimnys (unconfirmed !!)
+* The vinyl soft top, as well as plastic hard top of cabrio Jimnys 3 are the same for all Jimnys (unconfirmed !!)
-{{note|If your Jimny has a 2nd model front bumper, definitely consider changing it for a 1st model front bumper on this occasion. You might even consider changing a 3rd model front bumper for a 1st model front bumper.}}
+{{note|If your Jimny 3 has a 2nd model front bumper, definitely consider changing it for a 1st model front bumper on this occasion. You might even consider changing a 3rd model front bumper for a 1st model front bumper.}}
 {{note|See wiki article [[Front bumper issues|'''"Front bumper issues"''']] for all the details on front bumpers.}}

@@ Line 387: / Line 387: @@
 * All the side moldings on the doors, door sills, front wheel arches and rear wheel arches are the same on all Jimny production years.
 * The rear bumper is the same as well.
-* The front bumper exists in three different generations, but the mounting points '''should''' be the same. See more below.
+* The front bumper exists in three different models (oldest / middle / newest), but the mounting points '''should''' be the same. See more below.
 * The external door handles are also the same, as well as the lid of the fuel filler cap.
 * The longitudinal roof rails are the same.
@@ Line 397: / Line 397: @@
-{{note|If your Jimny has a 2nd gen. front bumper, definitely consider changing it for a 1st gen. front bumper on this occasion. You might even consider changing a 3rd gen. front bumper for a 1st gen. front bumper.}}
+{{note|If your Jimny has a 2nd model front bumper, definitely consider changing it for a 1st model front bumper on this occasion. You might even consider changing a 3rd model front bumper for a 1st model front bumper.}}
 {{note|See wiki article [[Front bumper issues|'''"Front bumper issues"''']] for all the details on front bumpers.}}

@@ Line 423: / Line 423: @@
 {{Edited}}
 [[Category:Body]]
-[[Category:Modifications]]
+[[Category:Body - gen3]]

@@ Line 253: / Line 253: @@
 * If you are confident in (dis)assembling body parts, you don't even need to go to a workshop.
 * Just park two Jimnys together, strip them and refit them.
-* The bumpers might be a bit tricky though when the vehicle is on the ground.
+** You will have to lay down on the ground to remove some rivets and screws which hold the bumpers and door sill covers.
 * If you can't find a willing Jimny owner to exchange vehicle body parts with you, then search for dead Jimnys in vehicle junkyards.
 * Their willingness to exchange vehicle's body parts with yours' can always be bought with a certain sum of money.
@@ Line 263: / Line 266: @@
-* The only disadvantage with the "parts exchange" method is that if some of the parts (either yours or the others') have visual damage.
+===== Disadvantage 1 - visually damaged parts =====
 * That could impair the exchange process, because the receiving party won't be so happy to exchange a good part for a scratched or cracked one.
 * But some good will or even money infusion should sort out the situation.
 * It all depends on who is more eager to accomplish the parts exchange deal.
-* If you manage to arrange this "parts exchange" deal with another owner or with the junk yard, first consider purchasing some body trim clips as a precaution, as those clips are easy to break when removing the side body moldings from the doors, door sills and wheel arches.
+===== Disadvantage 2 - replacement process =====

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:38, 3 February 2017
Line 292:		Line 292:

	{{Edited}}		{{Edited}}
		+	[[Category:Body]]
	[[Category:Modifications]]		[[Category:Modifications]]

@@ Line 136: / Line 136: @@
 * This picture "Silver + Dark Grey" shows a DDiS Jimny where its bonnet bulge, exterior mirror casings, external door handles and roof rails are also in the secondary color.
 * The fuel filler cap is not though, although it might have been a good idea to be as well.
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