BigJimny Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-09-04T20:21:53Z

Sheepish: /* Tools */

{{intro-notes}}

== Introduction ==

* The R72 gearbox is fitted to petrol Jimnys from about year 2005.
* The gearbox case splits vertically into three parts - the earlier gearbox splits horizontally.

* Bearing failure seems fairly common on these boxes.
* Many of these were fitted with faulty prop-shafts that allowed oil to leak through the centre cap of the prop, and perhaps oil starvation early in their life contributes to failures.
* All of the deep groove open bearings on the original box are replaced with metal shielded units in Suzuki's parts which implies there may be a general issue in splashing enough oil around.

* DDiS Jimnys use a completely different gearbox (at least the gearbox casing is obviously completely different).
* Therefore, most of this guide is '''not''' applicable to DDiS Jimnys.

== Rebuild ==

=== Tools ===

{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li> Range of impact sockets used to press in bearings </li><li>2 large flat head screw drivers</li><li>a 2 leg gear puller and/or hydraulic press</li><li>bearing seperator</li><li>torque wrench(s) to cover 23-90Nm</li><li>circlip pliers for 25mm circlips</li><li>copper or plastic mallet</li><li>sturdy metal tube of approx 25mm internal diameter, at least 130mm long; but see text for alternatives</ul>
 
}}
 

Ideally you'll want a copy of the correct service manual. This gearbox is covered under supplementary service manual 99501-81A10-01E. You might get lucky with Google!

== Gearbox Removal ==

[[File:Drain plug.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Drain Plug]]

* It is covered elsewhere (need to link).
* When draining the gearbox oil, a furry drain plug and chunks of metal are a good sign something has gone wrong in there.
 

== Dismantling ==

[[File:Gb2a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Cover removal]]

* With the gearbox on your workbench, remove the 4 bolts (black arrows in below picture) holding on the gear change cover and remove.
* It's sealed with liquid gasket and may need a tap with a soft hammer.
* Remove gear shift locating bolts (red arrows in the picture), springs and ball bearings (not shown).
* There is also a bolt on the opposite side of the case for the reverse gear shaft you need to remove with its spring and bearing.
* The bearings can stick in the shafts.
* If you can't them out at this stage, loosely refit a bolt in the corresponding hole without the spring, so you don't lose the bearing when you start to remove the gear shafts.
 

[[File:Gb4a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Locating bolts]]
 

Needs something here about rear case removal
 

[[File:Gb29a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]

* With the rear case off, you can now see the long output shaft, and the short counter shaft.
* This picture was taken on reassembly with a new sealed bearing on the counter shaft.
* From the factory this was an open bearing on my 2009 model.
 

[[File:Gb5a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]

* The output shaft lifts away easily.
* Do this slowly and make sure nothing lose is stuck to the bottom of this ready to fall on the floor.
 

[[File:Gb6a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]

* Looking down on to what is the input shaft, you should be left with the a synchroniser ring (brass colour).
* Under this is a round, lose clip, and in the centre a needle roller bearing.
* It's worth lifting these out now and keeping safely, in the correct order with your output shaft.
* They'll only fall out and disappear later when you pull out the input shaft.
 

Something about removing the mid case here.
 

[[File:Gb7a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]

* Remove the reverse gear.
* Be careful here, the lever plate (red arrow), connects to one of the shift rods (yellow arrow).
* If you lift the shift rod it will probably pop off a synchro sleeve on the input shaft, and synchro keys will fall on the floor, and you will be sad.
 

[[File:Gb9.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]

* This is a sad synchro sleeve with synchro keys no where to be seen.
* Don't let the sleeve lift as much as this. You have been warned!
 

[[File:Gb10.jpg|thumb|left|350px|5th gear shift inverse lever]]

* Next remove the 5th gear shift inverse lever at the base of the shift rods.
* Just two bolts and lift it out.
 

[[File:Gb11a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input and counter shafts]]

* At this stage you can release the large circlip at the base of the input shaft and lift away both the input and counter shafts plus the shift rods.
 

== Bearing Replacement ==

I jumped the gun a bit and got going before dismantling everything.

[[File:Gb3x.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Counter shaft]]

* This is the top of the counter shaft.
* Fairly obvious what is wrong here.
* In fact this is the only bearing that appeared sub-optimal in my box.
 

[[File:Gb8a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Hydraulic puller and bearing splitter]]

* So I removed it with a hydraulic puller and bearing splitter.
* None of the bearings took much effort to remove.
* I'd be confident this could be done with a manual puller.
 

[[File:Gb15.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]

* Bearing removal is trickier when the bearing is at the bottom of a shaft.
* You could possibly have tapped this off from behind.
* On the output shaft there are bearings either side of the gear and the whole lot needs pulling off.
* I did them one component at a time using a bearing splitter and a hydraulic press.
 

[[File:Gb14.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Bearing Splitter]]

* This isn't the output shaft, but you get the idea.
 

[[File:Gb17.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]

* A better idea of what you are up against with the output shaft here.
* None of this was hard to pull off.
* Remember - it's the bearing shown removed, plus the gear, plus the bearing below the gear with integral circlip (with the splitter and press).
* Note the blind circlip.
* There's a couple of these about but actually they weren't much of a problem.
* Lean on either side with 2 big flathead screwdrivers and they ping off.
* Sometimes they even remain in sight.
 

[[File:Gb16.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Man with lathe]]

* The problem comes when you want to push bearings back onto the shaft.
* Bearings at the top of shafts are easy if you have a range of impact sockets to act as suitable size presses.
* But my sockets aren't deep enough for output shafts.
* You could tap the bearings on with a brass rod and a hammer.
* If you do this it will be very easy to slip off the center race.
* Put the old bearing on top of the new one and drive on that to protect it.
* Luckily I know a man with a lathe who drilled a 25mm hole in some 40mm bar.
 

[[File:Gb18.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]

* I don't know what a machine shop would charge to do this but it made driving the bearings back on very easy.
* Both bearings and the gear drive on in one action with a press.
 

== Oil Seal Replacement ==

Next job is the oil seals.

[[File:Gb20.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]

* One of these oil seal removal tools will do the job.
* Be *very* careful not to score the casting with one of these.
* Err on the side of caution.
* There are two oil seals to remove where the input shaft passes through the bell housing.
 

[[File:Gb22a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing first input shaft seal]]

* Tap new seals into place using a suitable sized drift.
* Impact sockets are good for this.
* The first seal needs to go in with the solid face down.
* Ideally you will have a solid disk to press it in with, because you only have the open (U cross-section) of the seal to press on.
* I was lucky, a 30mm impact socket used upside down did the trick (see the picture).
* The seal lip of this seal should have grease on it. The genuine Suzuki seals come ready greased.
 

[[File:Gb21.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #1]]

* Here is the first seal in place.
 

[[File:Gb23.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]

* And the second seal.
 

There is also the output shaft seal to replace in the same way in the rear case.

== Reassembly ==

Is the reverse of disassembly, obviously. Nothing tricky here. A few points to note.
 

[[File:Gb25.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]

* The fifth gear shift inverse lever needs threadlock on its bolts.
* Torque to 23Nm.
 

[[File:Gb32.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gear shift locating springs and balls #2]]

* The gear shift locating springs and ball bearings are greased and replaced.
* The bolts need threadlock (wipe any grease off the case threads), and are torqued to 13Nm (every other bolt on the gearbox is 23Nm).
 

[[File:Gb26.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft alignment]]

* The reverse gear shaft needs to be positioned such that the bolt that secures it from outside of the centre case will thread into it.
* There is a small ridge in the casting to line up, but trial fit the centre case and make sure this is exactly right.
 

[[File:Gb35.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Sealant between gearbox cases]]

* Before the final fit of the centre case to the bell housing, apply instant gasket sealant.
* The picture below shows what a bit too much sealant looks like.
* Quite a lot oozed out when I tightened it, meaning a fair bit must have oozed in too.
 

[[File:Gb34.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gearbox case bolts]]

* The gearbox cases bolt together.
* No threadlock required.
* Guess what? 23Nm.
 

[[File:Gb33.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft fixing bolt.]]

* And here is the bolt being tightened up to 23Nm in the reverse gear shaft which you aligned carefully.
 

All that remains is to fit the rear case. Use sealant on the mating surfaces. Torque bolts to 23Nm.

And the gear shift plate. Sealant on mating surfaces, and thread lock on the bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

Now simply (!) refit the gearbox and away you go.

== Torque Settings ==

Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#R72_Gearbox | reference data]]

{{Edited}}
[[Category:Howto]][[Category:Drivechain]]

Clutch replacement

2017-01-21T12:42:32Z

Sheepish:

{{note|Use the "Print as PDF" tab above to print}}
= A guide to changing the clutch. =
== Introduction ==

It is inevitable that at some point you will have to face changing the clutch. It dips in and out of the mud on a regular basis as the bell-housing is not sealed. Eventually the clutch thrust bearing will start rattling and the action will become stiff and heavy.
Changing the clutch on a Jimny seems to be not for the faint hearted. It’s a very physical task and it is not pleasant struggling with the gearbox under the car, it is a very tight fit in the transmission tunnel.

So what are the symptoms of a worn clutch/clutch mechanism:
* Judder as clutch is released
* Slipping as engine power is applied
* Burning smell or smoke from under car
* Bearing squeal or rumble when clutch pedal pressed.

== Changing the Clutch ==
=== Tools ===
{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li>Assorted screwdrivers</li><li>Breaker bar</li><li>Clutch alignment tool</li><li>Strops to pull engine forward</li><li>10mm Square Drain plug socket</ul>
 
}}
 

== Removing Interior Items ==

If this hasn’t put you off then its time to start work. It goes without saying that you should jet-wash the underside of the car if possible to remove as much of the muck before it drops on you!
There are two ways of changing the clutch, one is to take the engine and gearbox out and the other is to drop the gearbox off. The Suzuki factory manual suggests the gearbox dropping method so that is the way I have gone.

The factory manual suggests it is not necessary to remove the transfer box, but I have removed it as you will need all the space you can get, I thoroughly recommend that you also remove the transfer box.

If you have the luxury of a bit of time then spray the visible bolts with WD40 a day or so before. In particular you should try and spray the bolts holding the exhaust front section and the bolts around the gearbox housing as these are difficult.

Starting inside the car it is necessary to remove the console, the gear lever and the transfer box lever.
=== Centre Console ===

[[File:Figure 1. Removing the Centre Console.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 1. Removing the Centre Console]]
To remove the gearbox lever you have to remove the centre console. This is held on by four screws on the side at the front and back. The console then lifts out.
Mine was more of a problem as I have a switch panel fitted so I then needed to remove the gearlever before the console would come completely away, but this has to be done at some point anyway.
 

=== Gear levers ===
[[File:Figure 2. Removing the Gearlever.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 2. Removing the Gearlever]]
Pull the gaiter away to reveal the three bolt heads around the base of the gearlever, undo the bolts and carefully lift out the gearstick, note that there is a small spring and a cup that should not be lost!
 

=== Lower Gaiter ===
[[File:Figure 3. Removing the lower Gaiter.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 3. Removing the lower Gaiter]]
With the console removed you will then see a frame that holds in a second gaiter. Simply undo the bolts and lift the frame clear.
 

=== Transfer Lever ===
[[File:Figure 4. Removing the Transfer Lever Knob.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 4. Removing the Transfer Lever Knob]]
If you are removing the Transfer Box then you need to remove the gaiter etc. around the Transfer Box Level. First locate the small screw at the rear of the transfer knob and remove it.
 
[[File:Figure 5. Removing the Transfer Level Gaiter.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 5. Removing the Transfer Level Gaiter]]
Unscrew the frame around the gaiter and pull the frame and gaiter clear.
 

== Draining the Oil ==
[[File:Figure 6. Gearbox Drain Plugs.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 6. Gearbox Drain Plugs]]
Move outside the car and disconnect the negative cable at battery.
Now drain the oil from the gearbox and transfer box, if you are not doing any work on the transfer box then it is not strictly necessary to drain the oil providing you keep it upright to stop the oil coming out of the lever hole.
On my Jimny the drain plugs are square and therefore a SQUARE 10MM drain plug socket should be used, however the square end of a 3/8 socket driver fits if you are pushed. Always undo the filler plug first because if the filler is stuck you do not want to drain the oil and not be able to fill it again. The gearbox filler is hidden up the side of the gearbox and lack of space is a problem
 

== Removing Front Exhaust Section ==

=== Exhaust ===
[[File:Figure 7. Transfer Box Fillers and Connectors.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 7. Transfer Box Fillers and Connectors]]
On the Transfer Box disconnect the 4WD switch wire at coupler and unclamp harness. Then disconnect the speed sensor coupler.
 
[[File:Figure 8. Exhaust Bolts.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 8. Exhaust Bolts]]
Now remove the front section of the exhaust pipe. This is held in place by pairs of springs with bolts inside. Due to the heat and stress the front bolts were really, really difficult to move. So much so I think there is real possibility of shearing them on some cars. There is a pair at the front and a pair at the back.
 

=== Lambda Sensor ===
[[File:Figure 9. Lambda Sensor on Converter.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 9. Lambda Sensor on Converter]]
Do not lift the exhaust of the rubber hangers yet. There is a Lambda sensor connected to the top of the catalytic converter.
 
[[File:Lambda Sensor Connector Behind Here.png|thumb|left|250px|Lambda Sensor Connector Behind Here]]
This needs to be disconnected. The Suzuki manual shows the sensor being unscrewed from the top of the converter. However, the sensor has been subject to red hot heat, water and mud, therefore mine was firmly rusted in. Instead I followed the wiring back up to behind the engine. Just behind the head on the passenger side is a set of connectors, unbolt the connector mounting bracket and prise the Lambda connector apart (this is very stiff as well!).
With the Lambda sensor disconnected you can pull the front exhaust section off the rubber mounts.
 

== Removing the Prop shafts, Transfer Box & Gearbox Remote Mechanism ==

=== Prop shafts ===
[[File:Mark the Propshaft.png|thumb|left|250px|Mark the Propshaft]]
Now remove the propshafts. On each shaft paint some marks so they can be rebolted to the flanges in the correct position when you are re-building it. Paint all the flanges and also mark the sliding joint in the front propshaft. Remove the FRONT propshaft FIRST, followed by the Gearbox/Transfer box shaft SECOND. Where possible do the REAR propshaft LAST. Why! – because all the propshaft bolts are quite tight and therefore you need to hold the propshafts in place whilst you try to undo the bolts. As the front hubs are vacuum operated there is no easy way to lock the props if you have disconnected the rear first. With the rear prop still on the rear wheels keep the system locked. I found out this trick the hard way.
 

=== Transfer Box ===
[[File:Figure 10. Transfer mounts.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 10. Transfer mounts]]
Now undo the 3 large mounting nuts on the transfer box mount and the 4 bolts on the mounting flange. Now the transfer box should lift down.
 

[[File:Figure 11. Transfer Mounts.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 11. Transfer Mounts]]
 

=== Gearbox Remote Mechanism ===
[[File:Figure 12. Gearbox Remote Mechanism.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 12. Gearbox Remote Mechanism]]
Now for the complex bit. The Jimny has a remote gearbox mechanism bolted onto the rear of the gearbox and this needs to be removed. It’s probably easier to see the part after it has been removed as it is clearer what you are trying to achieve. Note this is the top view, you will normally be underneath!
 
[[File:Figure 13. Remote Mechanism in place.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 13. Remote Mechanism in place]]
Remove gear shift control joint bolt and extension rod bolt.
 

== Removing the Engine Mounting Bolts, Starter Motor and Clutch Cable ==

=== Engine Mounting ===

Remove the Engine Rear Mounting bolts (Three of them, one either side and one in the rubber bit). This is the mount under the gearbox that rests on the chassis crossmember.

Using a long socket extension, reach into the remote mechanism and undo the 4 bolts that connect it to the gearbox. These are hard to reach.

The entire mechanism should then be removeable complete with the mounts. Also unbolt all the other metal bits (including the exhaust mounting rubber) from the rear cross member as you will need to squeeze the Gearbox out later on.

=== Reversing Switch ===
[[File:Figure 14. Gearbox Reverse Switch.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 14. Gearbox Reverse Switch]]
Now remove the reversing light switch. This is on top of the gearbox towards the front and was more accessible from under the bonnet by reaching down the back of the engine on the passenger side (UK). Tie it up out of the way.
 

=== Starter Motor ===
[[File:Figure 15. Starter Motor (from underneath car).png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 15. Starter Motor (from underneath car)]]
Now for the next difficult task, removing the starter motor. Clearly Suzuki never considered that a starter motor may go wrong and need replacing as it is in one of the most in-accessible places. First of all check that you have disconnected the battery. Laying under the car reach up the drivers side of the engine and unbolt the two bolts holding the motor in place and easy it back. There is no need to remove it completely and no need to undo all the cables attached to in.
 

=== Clutch Cable ===
[[File:Figure 16. Clutch cable (unhooked).png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 16. Clutch cable (unhooked)]]
We are nearly there now. Remove plastic clutch housing cap and prise the end of the clutch cable from clutch release fork. Then undo the two bolts holding the clutch cable to the transmission and withdraw the clutch cable assembly. Also remove the small tin-plate on the bottom front of the clutch housing held on by a pair of small 10mm bolts.
 

== Seperating Gearbox away From Engine ==

The official workshop manual now says to undo the bellhousing bolts and lower the gearbox away from the engine. Whoever wrote this must have been smoking something very exotic. The first problem is to locate all the bolts on the bellhousing as they are well hidden. Take a close look at the picture below and locate all the bolts.

[[File:Figure 17. Gearbox bolts.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 17. Gearbox bolts]]
 

The next problem is undoing them as there is no room to get a socket set in. I had to use a complex combination of extensions and flex joints from two socket sets to get to a couple of the bolts. Also note that there is very little chance of the gearbox falling off once the bolts are undone so don’t spend a lot of time supporting it.

Separating the gearbox from the engine can be a real pain (literally). The gearbox is located on studs and corrosion can hold it in place. I had to hit the bellhousing edge with a large hammer (protecting the metal with a wooden block) before it would separate.
[[File:Figure 18. Pulling the engine forward with strap.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 18. Pulling the engine forward with strap]]
Once it is separated you have to drop the gearbox down. The transmission tunnel is so tight that this appears to be a near impossible task. I had to jack the engine forward to gain as much room as possible. You will also find that the gearbox will move backwards a little way in the tunnel, this means you can then open a useful gap around the clutch.
 

[[File:Figure 19. Gap between gearbox and clutch with engine pulled forward.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 19. Gap between gearbox and clutch with engine pulled forward]]
Some people have changed the clutch using just this gap. Instead, I undid the clutch cover bolts and removed the clutch assembly with the gearbox still in place. Removing the clutch then meant there was just enough room for the gearbox to be pulled out.
 

== Replacing the Clutch ==

Within the clutch kit should be a new cover, new plate and new release bearing.
[[File:Figure 20. Clutch Release Bearing.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 20. Clutch Release Bearing]]
The old release bearing is removed by prising the spring clip out of the mounting and sliding it out of the spring. Re-assembly is just as easy, make sure that the splines are lightly greased and the inside of the release bearing where it slides on the shaft is greased (not the bearing itself – this should be lubricated by the factory).
 

Put grease on the moving points of the clutch release arm as well.

[[File:Figure 21. Wrong Release Bearing is on Right.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 21. Wrong Release Bearing is on Right]]
I originally purchased a cheap kit (CPK1086) from ebay, this was before the Bigjimny shop!. The quality seems ok (it is stamped as being made by AISIN – who supply Suzuki with parts), the only issue being that it was supplied with the incorrect release bearing. The company immediately shipped the correct bearing free of charge and assured me that the correct bearing should have been in the kit. Also note that the new plate has 4 springs whilst the old one has 3, again I have been assured that this is ok.
 

[[File:Figure 22. New Clutch Plate on left.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 22. New Clutch Plate on left]]
 

[[File:Figure 23. New clutch cover on left.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 23. New clutch cover on left]]
 

Assemble the new clutch mechanism using a clutch alignment tool (I got mine cheap - £1 – as it was a girlie pink colour and had remained unsold in the shop for a long time). With this tool you assemble the clutch off the car and then lift the whole unit into place and bolt down the clutch cover to the flywheel. Remove clutch alignment tool.

[[File:Figure 24. Clutch Assembled.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 24. Clutch Assembled]]
 

[[File:Figure 25. Clutch with alignment tool.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 25. Clutch with alignment tool]]
 

[[File:Figure 26. Clutch back in place.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 26. Clutch back in place]]
 

Wipe a layer of grease around the mating face of the gearbox, this should mean it doesn’t stick in the future and should make it easier to re-assemble.

[[File:Figure 27. Grease the mounting face of the gearbox.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 27. Grease the mounting face of the gearbox]]
 

== Refitting the Gearbox ==

With the engine still jacked forward it should be possible to jack the gearbox back into place using the weight of the car to help force it into position. Before trying to mate it back with the clutch allow the engine to drop back into its proper position (not too far back) – this will make it easier to align.

It should now be possible to wiggle the gearbox forward. FIRST OF ALL CHECK NOTHING IS IN THE WAY – I failed to notice the reversing light switch had fallen down and I severed the cable which had become trapped. Fitting the gearbox is one of those tasks where you will have repeated attempts to get it to go and then it will suddenly “click” – it will need lots of tiny jiggles to creep it onto the studs.

Refit all the bolts that hold the gearbox in place (use Copper Grease on the bolts to make it easier next time!)

Now it’s a matter of going back through the steps previously to refit everything.

Note that you may want to fit extended breathers to the gearbox whilst it is in bits. The picture below shows the rubber pipe that is the normal breather (minus a plastic cap which has already fallen off!). The later models have an extended breather already, and it's another good candidate for slipping between the gearbox and engine while you are trying to refit it.

Simply slide some pipe onto the tub and extend the breather to a higher point on the car.

[[File:Figure 28. Gearbox breather.png|thumb|left|250px|Figure 28. Gearbox breather]]
 

{{Edited}}
[[Category:Howto]][[Category:Drivechain]]

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-01-21T12:40:05Z

Sheepish: /* Tools */

{{note|Use the "Print as PDF" tab above to print}}
= A guide to rebuilding an R72 gearbox =
== Introduction ==

The R72 gearbox is was fitted from about 2005. The case splits vertically into three parts. The earlier box splits horizontally.

Bearing failure seems fairly common on these boxes. Many of these were fitted with faulty prop-shafts that allowed oil to leak through the centre cap of the prop, and perhaps oil starvation early in their life contributes to failures. All of the deep groove open bearings on the original box are replaced with metal shielded units in Suzuki's parts which implies there may be a general issue in splashing enough oil around.

== Rebuild ==
=== Tools ===
{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li> Range of impact sockets used to press in bearings </li><li>2 large flat head screw drivers</li><li>a 2 leg gear puller and/or hydraulic press</li><li>bearing seperator</li><li>torque wrench(s) to cover 23-90Nm</li><li>circlip pliers for 25mm circlips</li><li>copper or plastic mallet</li><li>sturdy metal tube of approx 25mm internal diameter, at least 130mm long; but see text for alternatives</ul>
 
}}
 

Ideally you'll want a copy of the correct service manual. This gearbox is covered under supplementary service manual 99501-81A20-01E. You might get lucky with Google!

== Gearbox Removal ==
Is covered elsewhere (need to link). When draining the gearbox oil a furry drain plug and chunks of metal are a good sign something has gone wrong in there.
 
[[File:Drain plug.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Drain Plug]]
 

== Dismantling ==
With the gearbox on your workbench, remove the 4 bolts (black arrows in below picture) holding on the gear change cover and remove. It's sealed with liquid gasket and may need a tap with a soft hammer.
 
[[File:Gb2a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Cover removal]]
 

Remove gear shift locating bolts (red arrows in above picture), springs and ball bearings (not shown). There is also a bolt on the opposite side of the case for the reverse gear shaft you need to remove with its spring and bearing.

The bearings can stick in the shafts. If you can't them out at this stage losely refit a bolt in the corresponding hole without the spring so you don't lose the bearing when you start to remove the gear shafts.

 
[[File:Gb4a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Locating bolts]]
 

Needs something here about rear case removal

With the rear case off you can now see the long output shaft, and the short counter shaft. The below picture was taken on reassembly with a new sealed bearing on the counter shaft. From the factory this was an open bearing on my 2009 model.

 
[[File:Gb29a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

The output shaft lifts away easily. Do this slowly and make sure nothing lose is stuck to the bottom of this ready to fall on the floor.

 
[[File:Gb5a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Looking down on to what is the input shaft, you should be left with the a synchroniser ring (brass colour), under this is a round, lose clip, and in the centre a needle roller bearing. It's worth lifting these out now and keeping safely, in the correct order with your output shaft. They'll only fall out and disappear later when you pull out the input shaft.

 
[[File:Gb6a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Something about removing the mid case here.

Remove the reverse gear. Be careful here, the lever plate (red arrow), connects to one of the shift rods (yellow arrow). If you lift the shift rod it will probably pop off a synchro sleeve on the input shaft, and syncho keys will fall on the floor, and you will be sad.

 
[[File:Gb7a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Below is a sad syncho sleeve with syncho keys no where to be seen. Don't let the sleeve lift as much as this. You have been warned, etc.

 
[[File:Gb9.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Next remove the 5th gear shift inverse lever at the base of the shift rods. Just two bolts and lift it out.

 
[[File:Gb10.jpg|thumb|left|350px|5th gear shift inverse lever]]
 

At this stage you can release the large circlip at the base of the input shaft and lift away both the input and counter shafts plus the shift rods.

 
[[File:Gb11a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input and counter shafts]]
 

== Bearing Replacement ==

I jumped the gun a bit and got going before dismantling everything. This is the top of the counter shaft. Fairly obvious what is wrong here. In fact this is the only bearing that appeared sub-optimal in my box.

 
[[File:Gb3x.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Counter shaft]]
 

So I removed it with a hydraulic puller and bearing splitter. None of the bearings took much effort to remove. I'd be confident this could be done with a manual puller.

 
[[File:Gb8a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Hydraulic puller and bearing splitter]]
 

Bearing removal is trickier when the bearing is at the bottom of a shaft. You could possibly have tapped this off from behind. On the output shaft there are bearings either side of the gear and the whole lot needs pulling off. I did them one component at a time using a bearing splitter and a hydraulic press.

 
[[File:Gb15.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

This isn't the output shaft, but you get the idea.

 
[[File:Gb14.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Bearing Splitter]]
 

A better idea of what you are up against with the output shaft here. None of this was hard to pull off (remember it's the bearing shown removed, plus the gear, plus the bearing below the gear with integral circlip) with the splitter and press. Note the blind circlip. There's a couple of these about but actually they weren't much of a problem. Lean on either side with 2 big flathead screwdrivers and they ping off. Sometimes they even remain in sight.

 
[[File:Gb17.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

The problem comes when you want to push bearings back onto the shaft. Bearings at the top of shafts are easy if you have a range of impact sockets to act as suitable size presses. But my sockets aren't deep enough for output shafts. You could tap the bearings on with a brass rod and a hammer. If you do this it will be very east to slip off the center race. Put the old bearing on top of the new one and drive on that to protect it. Luckily I know a man with a lathe who drilled a 25mm hole in some 40mm bar.

 
[[File:Gb16.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Man with lathe]]
 

I don't know what a machine shop would charge to do this but it made driving the bearings back on very easy. Both bearings and the gear drive on in one action with a press.

 
[[File:Gb18.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

== Oil Seal Replacement ==

Next job is the oil seals. One of these oil seal removal tools will do the job. Be *very* careful not to score the casting with one of these. Err on the side of caution. There are two oil seals to remove where the input shaft passes through the bellhousing.

 
[[File:Gb20.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

Tap new seals into place using a suitable sized drift. Impact sockets are good for this. The first seal needs to go in with the solid face down. Ideally you will have a solid disk to press it in with because you only have the open (U cross-section) of the seal to press on. I was lucky, a 30mm impact socket used upside down did the trick (see picture below). The seal lip of this seal should have grease on it. The genuine Suzuki seals come ready greased.

 
[[File:Gb22a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing first input shaft seal]]
 

Here is the first seal in place.

 
[[File:Gb21.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #1]]
 

And the second seal.

 
[[File:Gb23.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

There is also the output shaft seal to replace in the same way in the rear case.

== Reassembly ==

Is the reverse of disassembly, obviously. Nothing tricky here. A few points to note.

The fifth gear shift inverse lever needs threadlock on its bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb25.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

The gear shift locating springs and ball bearings are greased and replaced. The bolts need threadlock (wipe any grease off the case threads), and are torqued to 13Nm (every other bolt on the gearbox is 23Nm)

 
[[File:Gb32.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gear shift locating springs and balls #2]]
 

The reverse gear shaft needs to be positioned such that the bolt that secures it from outside of the centre case will thread into it. There is a small ridge in the casting to line up, but trial fit the centre case and make sure this is exactly right.

 
[[File:Gb26.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft alignment]]
 

Before the final fit of the centre case to the bell housing apply instant gasket sealant. The picture below shows what a bit too much sealant looks like. Quite a lot oozed out when I tightened it, meaning a fair bit must have oozed in too.

 
[[File:Gb35.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Sealant between gearbox cases]]
 

The gearbox cases bolt together. No threadlock required. Guess what? 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb34.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gearbox case bolts]]
 

And here is the bolt being tightened up to 23Nm in the reverse gear shaft which you aligned carefully.

 
[[File:Gb33.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft fixing bolt.]]
 

All that remains is to fit the rear case. Use sealant on the mating surfaces. Torque bolts to 23Nm.

And the gear shift plate. Sealant on mating surfaces, and thread lock on the bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

Now simply (!) refit the gearbox and away you go.

=== Torque Settings ===
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#R72_Gearbox | reference data]]
 

{{Edited}}
[[Category:Howto]][[Category:Drivechain]]

File:Gb34.jpg

2017-01-19T18:52:02Z

Sheepish:

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-01-19T18:48:58Z

Sheepish: /* Reassembly */

{{note|Use the "Print as PDF" tab above to print}}
= A guide to rebuilding an R72 gearbox =
== Introduction ==

The R72 gearbox is was fitted from about 2005. The case splits vertically into three parts. The earlier box splits horizontally.

Bearing failure seems fairly common on these boxes. Many of these were fitted with faulty prop-shafts that allowed oil to leak through the centre cap of the prop, and perhaps oil starvation early in their life contributes to failures. All of the deep groove open bearings on the original box are replaced with metal shielded units in Suzuki's parts which implies there may be a general issue in splashing enough oil around.

== Rebuild ==
=== Tools ===
{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li> Range of impact sockets used to press in bearings </li><li>2 large flat head screw drivers</li><li>a 2 leg gear puller and/or hydraulic press</li><li>bearing seperator</li><li>torque wrench(s) to cover 23-90Nm</li><li>circlip pliers for 25mm circlips</li><li>copper or plastic mallet</li><li>sturdy metal tube of approx 25mm internal diameter, at least 130mm long; but see text for alternatives</ul>
 
}}
 

Ideally you'll want a copy of the correct service manual. This gearbox is covered under supplementary service manual 99501-81A010-01E. You might get lucky with Google!

== Gearbox Removal ==
Is covered elsewhere (need to link). When draining the gearbox oil a furry drain plug and chunks of metal are a good sign something has gone wrong in there.
 
[[File:Drain plug.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Drain Plug]]
 

== Dismantling ==
With the gearbox on your workbench, remove the 4 bolts (black arrows in below picture) holding on the gear change cover and remove. It's sealed with liquid gasket and may need a tap with a soft hammer.
 
[[File:Gb2a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Cover removal]]
 

Remove gear shift locating bolts (red arrows in above picture), springs and ball bearings (not shown). There is also a bolt on the opposite side of the case for the reverse gear shaft you need to remove with its spring and bearing.

The bearings can stick in the shafts. If you can't them out at this stage losely refit a bolt in the corresponding hole without the spring so you don't lose the bearing when you start to remove the gear shafts.

 
[[File:Gb4a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Locating bolts]]
 

Needs something here about rear case removal

With the rear case off you can now see the long output shaft, and the short counter shaft. The below picture was taken on reassembly with a new sealed bearing on the counter shaft. From the factory this was an open bearing on my 2009 model.

 
[[File:Gb29a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

The output shaft lifts away easily. Do this slowly and make sure nothing lose is stuck to the bottom of this ready to fall on the floor.

 
[[File:Gb5a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Looking down on to what is the input shaft, you should be left with the a synchroniser ring (brass colour), under this is a round, lose clip, and in the centre a needle roller bearing. It's worth lifting these out now and keeping safely, in the correct order with your output shaft. They'll only fall out and disappear later when you pull out the input shaft.

 
[[File:Gb6a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Something about removing the mid case here.

Remove the reverse gear. Be careful here, the lever plate (red arrow), connects to one of the shift rods (yellow arrow). If you lift the shift rod it will probably pop off a synchro sleeve on the input shaft, and syncho keys will fall on the floor, and you will be sad.

 
[[File:Gb7a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Below is a sad syncho sleeve with syncho keys no where to be seen. Don't let the sleeve lift as much as this. You have been warned, etc.

 
[[File:Gb9.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Next remove the 5th gear shift inverse lever at the base of the shift rods. Just two bolts and lift it out.

 
[[File:Gb10.jpg|thumb|left|350px|5th gear shift inverse lever]]
 

At this stage you can release the large circlip at the base of the input shaft and lift away both the input and counter shafts plus the shift rods.

 
[[File:Gb11a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input and counter shafts]]
 

== Bearing Replacement ==

I jumped the gun a bit and got going before dismantling everything. This is the top of the counter shaft. Fairly obvious what is wrong here. In fact this is the only bearing that appeared sub-optimal in my box.

 
[[File:Gb3x.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Counter shaft]]
 

So I removed it with a hydraulic puller and bearing splitter. None of the bearings took much effort to remove. I'd be confident this could be done with a manual puller.

 
[[File:Gb8a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Hydraulic puller and bearing splitter]]
 

Bearing removal is trickier when the bearing is at the bottom of a shaft. You could possibly have tapped this off from behind. On the output shaft there are bearings either side of the gear and the whole lot needs pulling off. I did them one component at a time using a bearing splitter and a hydraulic press.

 
[[File:Gb15.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

This isn't the output shaft, but you get the idea.

 
[[File:Gb14.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Bearing Splitter]]
 

A better idea of what you are up against with the output shaft here. None of this was hard to pull off (remember it's the bearing shown removed, plus the gear, plus the bearing below the gear with integral circlip) with the splitter and press. Note the blind circlip. There's a couple of these about but actually they weren't much of a problem. Lean on either side with 2 big flathead screwdrivers and they ping off. Sometimes they even remain in sight.

 
[[File:Gb17.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

The problem comes when you want to push bearings back onto the shaft. Bearings at the top of shafts are easy if you have a range of impact sockets to act as suitable size presses. But my sockets aren't deep enough for output shafts. You could tap the bearings on with a brass rod and a hammer. If you do this it will be very east to slip off the center race. Put the old bearing on top of the new one and drive on that to protect it. Luckily I know a man with a lathe who drilled a 25mm hole in some 40mm bar.

 
[[File:Gb16.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Man with lathe]]
 

I don't know what a machine shop would charge to do this but it made driving the bearings back on very easy. Both bearings and the gear drive on in one action with a press.

 
[[File:Gb18.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

== Oil Seal Replacement ==

Next job is the oil seals. One of these oil seal removal tools will do the job. Be *very* careful not to score the casting with one of these. Err on the side of caution. There are two oil seals to remove where the input shaft passes through the bellhousing.

 
[[File:Gb20.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

Tap new seals into place using a suitable sized drift. Impact sockets are good for this. The first seal needs to go in with the solid face down. Ideally you will have a solid disk to press it in with because you only have the open (U cross-section) of the seal to press on. I was lucky, a 30mm impact socket used upside down did the trick (see picture below). The seal lip of this seal should have grease on it. The genuine Suzuki seals come ready greased.

 
[[File:Gb22a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing first input shaft seal]]
 

Here is the first seal in place.

 
[[File:Gb21.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #1]]
 

And the second seal.

 
[[File:Gb23.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

There is also the output shaft seal to replace in the same way in the rear case.

== Reassembly ==

Is the reverse of disassembly, obviously. Nothing tricky here. A few points to note.

The fifth gear shift inverse lever needs threadlock on its bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb25.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

The gear shift locating springs and ball bearings are greased and replaced. The bolts need threadlock (wipe any grease off the case threads), and are torqued to 13Nm (every other bolt on the gearbox is 23Nm)

 
[[File:Gb32.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gear shift locating springs and balls #2]]
 

The reverse gear shaft needs to be positioned such that the bolt that secures it from outside of the centre case will thread into it. There is a small ridge in the casting to line up, but trial fit the centre case and make sure this is exactly right.

 
[[File:Gb26.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft alignment]]
 

Before the final fit of the centre case to the bell housing apply instant gasket sealant. The picture below shows what a bit too much sealant looks like. Quite a lot oozed out when I tightened it, meaning a fair bit must have oozed in too.

 
[[File:Gb35.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Sealant between gearbox cases]]
 

The gearbox cases bolt together. No threadlock required. Guess what? 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb34.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gearbox case bolts]]
 

And here is the bolt being tightened up to 23Nm in the reverse gear shaft which you aligned carefully.

 
[[File:Gb33.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft fixing bolt.]]
 

All that remains is to fit the rear case. Use sealant on the mating surfaces. Torque bolts to 23Nm.

And the gear shift plate. Sealant on mating surfaces, and thread lock on the bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

Now simply (!) refit the gearbox and away you go.

=== Torque Settings ===
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#R72_Gearbox | reference data]]
 

{{Edited}}
[[Category:Howto]][[Category:Drivechain]]

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-01-19T18:44:44Z

Sheepish: /* Bearing Replacement */

{{note|Use the "Print as PDF" tab above to print}}
= A guide to rebuilding an R72 gearbox =
== Introduction ==

The R72 gearbox is was fitted from about 2005. The case splits vertically into three parts. The earlier box splits horizontally.

Bearing failure seems fairly common on these boxes. Many of these were fitted with faulty prop-shafts that allowed oil to leak through the centre cap of the prop, and perhaps oil starvation early in their life contributes to failures. All of the deep groove open bearings on the original box are replaced with metal shielded units in Suzuki's parts which implies there may be a general issue in splashing enough oil around.

== Rebuild ==
=== Tools ===
{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li> Range of impact sockets used to press in bearings </li><li>2 large flat head screw drivers</li><li>a 2 leg gear puller and/or hydraulic press</li><li>bearing seperator</li><li>torque wrench(s) to cover 23-90Nm</li><li>circlip pliers for 25mm circlips</li><li>copper or plastic mallet</li><li>sturdy metal tube of approx 25mm internal diameter, at least 130mm long; but see text for alternatives</ul>
 
}}
 

Ideally you'll want a copy of the correct service manual. This gearbox is covered under supplementary service manual 99501-81A010-01E. You might get lucky with Google!

== Gearbox Removal ==
Is covered elsewhere (need to link). When draining the gearbox oil a furry drain plug and chunks of metal are a good sign something has gone wrong in there.
 
[[File:Drain plug.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Drain Plug]]
 

== Dismantling ==
With the gearbox on your workbench, remove the 4 bolts (black arrows in below picture) holding on the gear change cover and remove. It's sealed with liquid gasket and may need a tap with a soft hammer.
 
[[File:Gb2a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Cover removal]]
 

Remove gear shift locating bolts (red arrows in above picture), springs and ball bearings (not shown). There is also a bolt on the opposite side of the case for the reverse gear shaft you need to remove with its spring and bearing.

The bearings can stick in the shafts. If you can't them out at this stage losely refit a bolt in the corresponding hole without the spring so you don't lose the bearing when you start to remove the gear shafts.

 
[[File:Gb4a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Locating bolts]]
 

Needs something here about rear case removal

With the rear case off you can now see the long output shaft, and the short counter shaft. The below picture was taken on reassembly with a new sealed bearing on the counter shaft. From the factory this was an open bearing on my 2009 model.

 
[[File:Gb29a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

The output shaft lifts away easily. Do this slowly and make sure nothing lose is stuck to the bottom of this ready to fall on the floor.

 
[[File:Gb5a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Looking down on to what is the input shaft, you should be left with the a synchroniser ring (brass colour), under this is a round, lose clip, and in the centre a needle roller bearing. It's worth lifting these out now and keeping safely, in the correct order with your output shaft. They'll only fall out and disappear later when you pull out the input shaft.

 
[[File:Gb6a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Something about removing the mid case here.

Remove the reverse gear. Be careful here, the lever plate (red arrow), connects to one of the shift rods (yellow arrow). If you lift the shift rod it will probably pop off a synchro sleeve on the input shaft, and syncho keys will fall on the floor, and you will be sad.

 
[[File:Gb7a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Below is a sad syncho sleeve with syncho keys no where to be seen. Don't let the sleeve lift as much as this. You have been warned, etc.

 
[[File:Gb9.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Next remove the 5th gear shift inverse lever at the base of the shift rods. Just two bolts and lift it out.

 
[[File:Gb10.jpg|thumb|left|350px|5th gear shift inverse lever]]
 

At this stage you can release the large circlip at the base of the input shaft and lift away both the input and counter shafts plus the shift rods.

 
[[File:Gb11a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input and counter shafts]]
 

== Bearing Replacement ==

I jumped the gun a bit and got going before dismantling everything. This is the top of the counter shaft. Fairly obvious what is wrong here. In fact this is the only bearing that appeared sub-optimal in my box.

 
[[File:Gb3x.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Counter shaft]]
 

So I removed it with a hydraulic puller and bearing splitter. None of the bearings took much effort to remove. I'd be confident this could be done with a manual puller.

 
[[File:Gb8a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Hydraulic puller and bearing splitter]]
 

Bearing removal is trickier when the bearing is at the bottom of a shaft. You could possibly have tapped this off from behind. On the output shaft there are bearings either side of the gear and the whole lot needs pulling off. I did them one component at a time using a bearing splitter and a hydraulic press.

 
[[File:Gb15.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

This isn't the output shaft, but you get the idea.

 
[[File:Gb14.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Bearing Splitter]]
 

A better idea of what you are up against with the output shaft here. None of this was hard to pull off (remember it's the bearing shown removed, plus the gear, plus the bearing below the gear with integral circlip) with the splitter and press. Note the blind circlip. There's a couple of these about but actually they weren't much of a problem. Lean on either side with 2 big flathead screwdrivers and they ping off. Sometimes they even remain in sight.

 
[[File:Gb17.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

The problem comes when you want to push bearings back onto the shaft. Bearings at the top of shafts are easy if you have a range of impact sockets to act as suitable size presses. But my sockets aren't deep enough for output shafts. You could tap the bearings on with a brass rod and a hammer. If you do this it will be very east to slip off the center race. Put the old bearing on top of the new one and drive on that to protect it. Luckily I know a man with a lathe who drilled a 25mm hole in some 40mm bar.

 
[[File:Gb16.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Man with lathe]]
 

I don't know what a machine shop would charge to do this but it made driving the bearings back on very easy. Both bearings and the gear drive on in one action with a press.

 
[[File:Gb18.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

== Oil Seal Replacement ==

Next job is the oil seals. One of these oil seal removal tools will do the job. Be *very* careful not to score the casting with one of these. Err on the side of caution. There are two oil seals to remove where the input shaft passes through the bellhousing.

 
[[File:Gb20.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

Tap new seals into place using a suitable sized drift. Impact sockets are good for this. The first seal needs to go in with the solid face down. Ideally you will have a solid disk to press it in with because you only have the open (U cross-section) of the seal to press on. I was lucky, a 30mm impact socket used upside down did the trick (see picture below). The seal lip of this seal should have grease on it. The genuine Suzuki seals come ready greased.

 
[[File:Gb22a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing first input shaft seal]]
 

Here is the first seal in place.

 
[[File:Gb21.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #1]]
 

And the second seal.

 
[[File:Gb23.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

There is also the output shaft seal to replace in the same way in the rear case.

== Reassembly ==

Is the reverse of disassembly, obviously. Nothing tricky here. A few points to note.

The fifth gear shift inverse lever needs threadlock on its bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb25.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

The gear shift locating springs and ball bearings are greased and replaced. The bolts need threadlock (wipe any grease off the case threads), and are torqued to 13Nm (every other bolt on the gearbox is 23Nm)

 
[[File:Gb32.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gear shift locating springs and balls #2]]
 

The reverse gear shaft needs to be positioned such that the bolt that secures it from outside of the centre case will thread into it. There is a small ridge in the casting to line up, but trial fit the centre case and make sure this is exactly right.

 
[[File:Gb26.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft alignment]]
 

Before the final fit of the centre case to the bell housing apply instant gasket sealant. The picture below shows what a bit too much sealant looks like. Quite a lot oozed out when I tightened it, meaning a fair bit must have oozed in too.

 
[[File:Gb35.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Sealant between gearbox cases]]
 

The gearbox cases bolt together. No threadlock required. Guess what? 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb35.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gearbox case bolts]]
 

And here is the bolt being tightened up to 23Nm in the reverse gear shaft which you aligned carefully.

 
[[File:Gb33.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft fixing bolt.]]
 

All that remains is to fit the rear case. Use sealant on the mating surfaces. Torque bolts to 23Nm.

And the gear shift plate. Sealant on mating surfaces, and thread lock on the bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

Now simply (!) refit the gearbox and away you go.

=== Torque Settings ===
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#R72_Gearbox | reference data]]
 

{{Edited}}
[[Category:Howto]][[Category:Drivechain]]

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-01-19T18:43:57Z

Sheepish: /* Bearing Replacement */

{{note|Use the "Print as PDF" tab above to print}}
= A guide to rebuilding an R72 gearbox =
== Introduction ==

The R72 gearbox is was fitted from about 2005. The case splits vertically into three parts. The earlier box splits horizontally.

Bearing failure seems fairly common on these boxes. Many of these were fitted with faulty prop-shafts that allowed oil to leak through the centre cap of the prop, and perhaps oil starvation early in their life contributes to failures. All of the deep groove open bearings on the original box are replaced with metal shielded units in Suzuki's parts which implies there may be a general issue in splashing enough oil around.

== Rebuild ==
=== Tools ===
{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li> Range of impact sockets used to press in bearings </li><li>2 large flat head screw drivers</li><li>a 2 leg gear puller and/or hydraulic press</li><li>bearing seperator</li><li>torque wrench(s) to cover 23-90Nm</li><li>circlip pliers for 25mm circlips</li><li>copper or plastic mallet</li><li>sturdy metal tube of approx 25mm internal diameter, at least 130mm long; but see text for alternatives</ul>
 
}}
 

Ideally you'll want a copy of the correct service manual. This gearbox is covered under supplementary service manual 99501-81A010-01E. You might get lucky with Google!

== Gearbox Removal ==
Is covered elsewhere (need to link). When draining the gearbox oil a furry drain plug and chunks of metal are a good sign something has gone wrong in there.
 
[[File:Drain plug.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Drain Plug]]
 

== Dismantling ==
With the gearbox on your workbench, remove the 4 bolts (black arrows in below picture) holding on the gear change cover and remove. It's sealed with liquid gasket and may need a tap with a soft hammer.
 
[[File:Gb2a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Cover removal]]
 

Remove gear shift locating bolts (red arrows in above picture), springs and ball bearings (not shown). There is also a bolt on the opposite side of the case for the reverse gear shaft you need to remove with its spring and bearing.

The bearings can stick in the shafts. If you can't them out at this stage losely refit a bolt in the corresponding hole without the spring so you don't lose the bearing when you start to remove the gear shafts.

 
[[File:Gb4a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Locating bolts]]
 

Needs something here about rear case removal

With the rear case off you can now see the long output shaft, and the short counter shaft. The below picture was taken on reassembly with a new sealed bearing on the counter shaft. From the factory this was an open bearing on my 2009 model.

 
[[File:Gb29a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

The output shaft lifts away easily. Do this slowly and make sure nothing lose is stuck to the bottom of this ready to fall on the floor.

 
[[File:Gb5a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Looking down on to what is the input shaft, you should be left with the a synchroniser ring (brass colour), under this is a round, lose clip, and in the centre a needle roller bearing. It's worth lifting these out now and keeping safely, in the correct order with your output shaft. They'll only fall out and disappear later when you pull out the input shaft.

 
[[File:Gb6a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Something about removing the mid case here.

Remove the reverse gear. Be careful here, the lever plate (red arrow), connects to one of the shift rods (yellow arrow). If you lift the shift rod it will probably pop off a synchro sleeve on the input shaft, and syncho keys will fall on the floor, and you will be sad.

 
[[File:Gb7a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Below is a sad syncho sleeve with syncho keys no where to be seen. Don't let the sleeve lift as much as this. You have been warned, etc.

 
[[File:Gb9.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Next remove the 5th gear shift inverse lever at the base of the shift rods. Just two bolts and lift it out.

 
[[File:Gb10.jpg|thumb|left|350px|5th gear shift inverse lever]]
 

At this stage you can release the large circlip at the base of the input shaft and lift away both the input and counter shafts plus the shift rods.

 
[[File:Gb11a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input and counter shafts]]
 

== Bearing Replacement ==

I jumped the gun a bit and got going before dismantling everything. This is the top of the counter shaft. Fairly obvious what is wrong here. In fact this is the only bearing that appeared sub-optimal in my box.

 
[[File:Gb3x.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Counter shaft]]
 

So I removed it with a hydraulic puller and bearing splitter. None of the bearings took much effort to remove. I'd be confident this could be done with a manual puller.

 
[[File:Gb8a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Hydraulic puller and bearing splitter]]
 

Bearing removal is trickier when the bearing is at the bottom of a shaft. You could possibly have tapped this off from behind. On the output shaft there are bearings either side of the gear and the whole lot needs pulling off. I did them one component at a time using a bearing splitter and a hydraulic press.

 
[[File:Gb15.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

This isn't the output shaft, but you get the idea.

 
[[File:Gb14.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Bearing Splitter]]
 

A better idea of what you are up against with the output shaft here. None of this was hard to pull off (remember it's the bearing shown removed, plus the gear, plus the bearing below the gear with integral circlip) with the splitter and press. Note the blind circlip. There's a couple of these about but actually they weren't much of a problem. Lean on either side with 2 big flathead screwdrivers and they ping off. Sometimes they even remain in sight.

 
[[File:Gb17.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Bearing Splitter]]
 

The problem comes when you want to push bearings back onto the shaft. Bearings at the top of shafts are easy if you have a range of impact sockets to act as suitable size presses. But my sockets aren't deep enough for output shafts. You could tap the bearings on with a brass rod and a hammer. If you do this it will be very east to slip off the center race. Put the old bearing on top of the new one and drive on that to protect it. Luckily I know a man with a lathe who drilled a 25mm hole in some 40mm bar.

 
[[File:Gb16.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Man with lathe]]
 

I don't know what a machine shop would charge to do this but it made driving the bearings back on very easy. Both bearings and the gear drive on in one action with a press.

 
[[File:Gb18.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

== Oil Seal Replacement ==

Next job is the oil seals. One of these oil seal removal tools will do the job. Be *very* careful not to score the casting with one of these. Err on the side of caution. There are two oil seals to remove where the input shaft passes through the bellhousing.

 
[[File:Gb20.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

Tap new seals into place using a suitable sized drift. Impact sockets are good for this. The first seal needs to go in with the solid face down. Ideally you will have a solid disk to press it in with because you only have the open (U cross-section) of the seal to press on. I was lucky, a 30mm impact socket used upside down did the trick (see picture below). The seal lip of this seal should have grease on it. The genuine Suzuki seals come ready greased.

 
[[File:Gb22a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing first input shaft seal]]
 

Here is the first seal in place.

 
[[File:Gb21.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #1]]
 

And the second seal.

 
[[File:Gb23.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

There is also the output shaft seal to replace in the same way in the rear case.

== Reassembly ==

Is the reverse of disassembly, obviously. Nothing tricky here. A few points to note.

The fifth gear shift inverse lever needs threadlock on its bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb25.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

The gear shift locating springs and ball bearings are greased and replaced. The bolts need threadlock (wipe any grease off the case threads), and are torqued to 13Nm (every other bolt on the gearbox is 23Nm)

 
[[File:Gb32.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gear shift locating springs and balls #2]]
 

The reverse gear shaft needs to be positioned such that the bolt that secures it from outside of the centre case will thread into it. There is a small ridge in the casting to line up, but trial fit the centre case and make sure this is exactly right.

 
[[File:Gb26.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft alignment]]
 

Before the final fit of the centre case to the bell housing apply instant gasket sealant. The picture below shows what a bit too much sealant looks like. Quite a lot oozed out when I tightened it, meaning a fair bit must have oozed in too.

 
[[File:Gb35.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Sealant between gearbox cases]]
 

The gearbox cases bolt together. No threadlock required. Guess what? 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb35.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Gearbox case bolts]]
 

And here is the bolt being tightened up to 23Nm in the reverse gear shaft which you aligned carefully.

 
[[File:Gb33.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse gear shaft fixing bolt.]]
 

All that remains is to fit the rear case. Use sealant on the mating surfaces. Torque bolts to 23Nm.

And the gear shift plate. Sealant on mating surfaces, and thread lock on the bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

Now simply (!) refit the gearbox and away you go.

=== Torque Settings ===
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#R72_Gearbox | reference data]]
 

{{Edited}}
[[Category:Howto]][[Category:Drivechain]]

File:Gb8a.jpg

2017-01-19T18:42:18Z

Sheepish: Sheepish uploaded a new version of File:Gb8a.jpg

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-01-19T18:33:54Z

2017-01-19T18:14:14Z

Sheepish:

=== Axle ===

{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;

!Item
!Torque Nm
!Torque lb-ft
|-
|Radius Arm bolts (Axle)
|90 Nm
|65 lb-ft
|-
|Radius Arm bolts (Chassis)
|90 Nm
|65 lb-ft
|}

=== Differential ===

{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;

!Item
!Torque Nm
!Torque lb-ft
|-
|Diff Drain Plug
|27 Nm
|19.5 lb-ft
|-
|Diff Filler Plug
|50 Nm
|36.5 lb-ft
|-
|Prop Shaft Flange Bolts
|50 Nm
|36.5 lb-ft
|-
|Bevel Gear Bolts
|85 Nm
|61.5 lb-ft
|-
|Bearing Cap Bolts (front)
|50 Nm
|36.5 lb-ft
|-
|Bearing Cap Bolts (rear)
|85 Nm
|61.5 lb-ft
|-
|Lock Plate Bolts
|11.5 Nm
|8.5 lb-ft
|-
|Front and Rear carrier bolts
|23 Nm
|17 lb-ft
|-
|Gear Thrust Bolt (front)
|1.5 Nm
|0.1 lb-ft
|-
|Gear Thrust Bolt (rear)
|85 Nm
|61.5 lb-ft
|}

=== Front Hub ===

{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;

!Item
!Torque Nm
!Torque lb-ft
|-
|Wheel Nuts
|95 Nm
|69 lb-ft
|-
|Tie-Rod End Nut
|43 Nm
|31.5 lb-ft
|-
|Kingpin Bolt
|25 Nm
|18.0 lb-ft
|-
|Locking Hub Bolts
|48 Nm
|35 lb-ft
|-
|Swivel Seal Bolts
|10 Nm
|7.5 lb-ft
|-
|Brake Carrier Bolts
|85 Nm
|61.5 lb-ft
|-
|Wheel Bearing Lock Nut
|220 Nm
|160 lb-ft
|-
|Drop-Link/Stabilizer Link ball nut
|50 Nm
|36.5 lb-ft
|-
|Brake Caliper Slider Bolt
|22 Nm
|16 lb-ft
|-
|Front Brake Flexi Hose bolt
|23 Nm
|17 lb-ft
|}

=== Gearbox (R72) Post 2005 ===

{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;

!Item
!Torque Nm
!Torque lb-ft
|-
|Fill and drain plugs
|23 Nm
|17 lb-ft
|-
|Reverse Switch
|23 Nm
|17 lb-ft
|-
|5th gear shift inverse lever bolt
|23 Nm
|17 lb-ft
|-
|Transmission case bolt
|23 Nm
|17 lb-ft
|-
|Gear shift rod spring / ball bearing bolts
|13 Nm
|9 lb-ft
|-
|Gearbox case to engine nuts and bolts
|90 Nm
|65 lb-ft
|}

[[Category:Reference_Data]]

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-01-19T18:09:34Z

Sheepish: /* A guide to rebuilding an R72 gearbox */

{{note|Use the "Print as PDF" tab above to print}}
= A guide to rebuilding an R72 gearbox =
== Introduction ==

The R72 gearbox is was fitted from about 2005. The case splits vertically into three parts. The earlier box splits horizontally.

Bearing failure seems fairly common on these boxes. Many of these were fitted with faulty prop-shafts that allowed oil to leak through the centre cap of the prop, and perhaps oil starvation early in their life contributes to failures. All of the deep groove open bearings on the original box are replaced with metal shielded units in Suzuki's parts which implies there may be a general issue in splashing enough oil around.

== Rebuild ==
=== Tools ===
{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li> Range of impact sockets used to press in bearings </li><li>2 large flat head screw drivers</li><li>a 2 leg gear puller and/or hydraulic press</li><li>bearing seperator</li><li>torque wrench(s) to cover 23-90Nm</li><li>copper or plastic mallet</li><li>sturdy metal tube of approx 25mm internal diameter, at least 130mm long; but see text for alternatives</ul>
 
}}
 

Ideally you'll want a copy of the correct service manual. This gearbox is covered under supplementary service manual 99501-81A010-01E. You might get lucky with Google!

== Gearbox Removal ==
Is covered elsewhere (need to link). When draining the gearbox oil a furry drain plug and chunks of metal are a good sign something has gone wrong in there.
 
[[File:Drain plug.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Drain Plug]]
 

== Dismantling ==
With the gearbox on your workbench, remove the 4 bolts (black arrows in below picture) holding on the gear change cover and remove. It's sealed with liquid gasket and may need a tap with a soft hammer.
 
[[File:Gb2a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Cover removal]]
 

Remove gear shift locating bolts (red arrows in above picture), springs and ball bearings (not shown). There is also a bolt on the opposite side of the case for the reverse gear shaft you need to remove with its spring and bearing.

The bearings can stick in the shafts. If you can't them out at this stage losely refit a bolt in the corresponding hole without the spring so you don't lose the bearing when you start to remove the gear shafts.

 
[[File:Gb4a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Locating bolts]]
 

Needs something here about rear case removal

With the rear case off you can now see the long output shaft, and the short counter shaft. The below picture was taken on reassembly with a new sealed bearing on the counter shaft. From the factory this was an open bearing on my 2009 model.

 
[[File:Gb29a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

The output shaft lifts away easily. Do this slowly and make sure nothing lose is stuck to the bottom of this ready to fall on the floor.

 
[[File:Gb5a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Looking down on to what is the input shaft, you should be left with the a synchroniser ring (brass colour), under this is a round, lose clip, and in the centre a needle roller bearing. It's worth lifting these out now and keeping safely, in the correct order with your output shaft. They'll only fall out and disappear later when you pull out the input shaft.

 
[[File:Gb6a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

Something about removing the mid case here.

Remove the reverse gear. Be careful here, the lever plate (red arrow), connects to one of the shift rods (yellow arrow). If you lift the shift rod it will probably pop off a synchro sleeve on the input shaft, and syncho keys will fall on the floor, and you will be sad.

 
[[File:Gb7a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Below is a sad syncho sleeve with syncho keys no where to be seen. Don't let the sleeve lift as much as this. You have been warned, etc.

 
[[File:Gb9.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Reverse lever]]
 

Next remove the 5th gear shift inverse lever at the base of the shift rods. Just two bolts and lift it out.

 
[[File:Gb10.jpg|thumb|left|350px|5th gear shift inverse lever]]
 

At this stage you can release the large circlip at the base of the input shaft and lift away both the input and counter shafts plus the shift rods.

 
[[File:Gb11a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input and counter shafts]]
 

== Bearing Replacement ==

I jumped the gun a bit and got going before dismantling everything. This is the top of the counter shaft. Fairly obvious what is wrong here. In fact this is the only bearing that appeared sub-optimal in my box.

 
[[File:Gb3x.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Counter shaft]]
 

So I removed it with a hydraulic puller. None of the bearings took much effort to remove. I'd be confident this could be done with a manual puller.

 
[[File:Gb11a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input and counter shafts]]
 

Bearing removal is trickier when the bearing is at the bottom of a shaft. You could possibly have tapped this off from behind. On the output shaft there are bearings either side of the gear and the whole lot needs pulling off. I did them one component at a time using a bearing splitter and a hydraulic press.

 
[[File:Gb15.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Output shaft]]
 

This isn't the output shaft, but you get the idea.

 
[[File:Gb14.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Bearing Splitter]]
 

A better idea of what you are up against with the output shaft here. None of this was hard to pull off (remember it's the bearing shown removed, plus the gear, plus the bearing below the gear with integral circlip) with the splitter and press. Note the blind circlip. There's a couple of these about but actually they weren't much of a problem. Lean on either side with 2 big flathead screwdrivers and they ping off. Sometimes they even remain in sight.

 
[[File:Gb17.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Bearing Splitter]]
 

The problem comes when you want to push bearings back onto the shaft. Bearings at the top of shafts are easy if you have a range of impact sockets to act as suitable size presses. But my sockets aren't deep enough for output shafts. You could tap the bearings on with a brass rod and a hammer. If you do this it will be very east to slip off the center race. Put the old bearing on top of the new one and drive on that to protect it. Luckily I know a man with a lathe who drilled a 25mm hole in some 40mm bar.

 
[[File:Gb16.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Man with lathe]]
 

I don't know what a machine shop would charge to do this but it made driving the bearings back on very easy. Both bearings and the gear drive on in one action with a press.

 
[[File:Gb18.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

== Oil Seal Replacement ==

Next job is the oil seals. One of these oil seal removal tools will do the job. Be *very* careful not to score the casting with one of these. Err on the side of caution. There are two oil seals to remove where the input shaft passes through the bellhousing.

 
[[File:Gb20.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing bearings onto output shaft]]
 

Tap new seals into place using a suitable sized drift. Impact sockets are good for this. The first seal needs to go in with the solid face down. Ideally you will have a solid disk to press it in with because you only have the open (U cross-section) of the seal to press on. I was lucky, a 30mm impact socket used upside down did the trick (see picture below). The seal lip of this seal should have grease on it. The genuine Suzuki seals come ready greased.

 
[[File:Gb22a.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Pressing first input shaft seal]]
 

Here is the first seal in place.

 
[[File:Gb21.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #1]]
 

And the second seal.

 
[[File:Gb23.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

There is also the output shaft seal to replace in the same way in the rear case.

== Reassembly ==

Is the reverse of disassembly, obviously. Nothing tricky here. A few points to note.

The fifth gear shift inverse lever needs threadlock on its bolts. Torque to 23Nm.

 
[[File:Gb25.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

The reverse gear shaft needs to be positioned such that the bolt that secures it from outside of the centre case will thread into it. There is a small ridge in the casting to line up, but trial fit the centre case and make sure this is exactly right.

 
[[File:Gb26.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

Before the final fit of the centre case to the bell housing apply instant gasket sealant. The picture below shows what a bit too much sealant looks like. Quite a lot oozed out when I tightened it, meaning a fair bit must have oozed in too.

 
[[File:Gb35.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Input shaft seal #2]]
 

=== Torque Settings ===
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#R72_Gearbox | reference data]]
 

{{Edited}}
[[Category:Howto]][[Category:Drivechain]]

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-01-18T16:52:52Z

Sheepish: /* A guide to rebuilding an R72 gearbox */

File:Gb9.jpg

2017-01-18T16:51:27Z

Sheepish: Sad synchro sleeve.

Sad synchro sleeve.

Gearbox R72 rebuild

2017-01-18T16:12:20Z

Sheepish: /* A guide to rebuilding an R72 gearbox */