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BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)


BigJimnyMeet 2024

14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds

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Swift 1.6vvt engine into a 2007 vvt jimny project

  • jimnynatal
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19 Jan 2017 12:06 #176991 by jimnynatal
I've already done this!
M16A VVT engine from a 2015 Swift Sport in my 2012 Jimny VVT.
I'll post some pics here.

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19 Jan 2017 18:24 #177030 by Riccy

jimnynatal wrote: I've already done this!
M16A VVT engine from a 2015 Swift Sport in my 2012 Jimny VVT.
I'll post some pics here.


great! someone who has done it, i think we could be looking at a few differences, in that i have an older 2007 jimny and am using a 2010 swift engine. I would be very grateful of any info or pics you have from doing your swap. Did you do it yourself or use a mechanic?

Riccy

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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22 Jan 2017 18:40 #177165 by Riccy
Well here it is...



Hadn't realised just how bad it is with the 1.3 and a trailer on the 235 tyres until today. very slow journey all the way to hartlepool and back, but its here and no problems.

Its came with pretty much all the intake/airbox, etc and is definatley a VVT as it has the bump in the right place. looks pretty much the same as the 1.3 from the outside. is out of a 2010 swift sport that has had a rear end shunt. done 42000 miles and looks clean as a whistle.

Talking to mechanic next week as i dont have the space/gear/time to do it myself :-(

Riccy

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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22 Jan 2017 18:50 - 01 Feb 2017 21:20 #177169 by Riccy
List of parts to swap from 1.3 onto 1.6, Please add/remove if you know better than me!

Crank Pulley
inlet manifold
flywheel/clutch
rocker cover/oil dipstick
sump and oil pickup
oil filter mounting
Injector rail (but keep 1.6 injectors)
Altenator, water pump, AC pump, steering box, starter motor, etc.
edit: swap coolant inlet on front of block

Parts to buy:
PU sealant for sump
Threaded nipple for oil filter direct to block instead of angled bracket currently
rocker cover gasket
Oil/coolant
sump plug gasket
Belts (?)
Spark plugs
edit: add a new crank pulley whilst its easy to renew as well as belt tensioner bearing

Any other jobs worth doing while its out? It already has a new starter motor and the clutch was new 12 months/4000 miles ago, so i dont know if theres anything else to do when its out?

All help with above gratefully received!

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
Last edit: 01 Feb 2017 21:20 by Riccy.

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23 Jan 2017 08:06 #177185 by Busta
You also need to swap the coolant inlet on the front of the block.
If you are swapping all the ancillaries and pulleys, the belts will be the same as you use now. The swift alternator might have a higher output. Use that if so. You should also fit a bigger battery to match. I don't know the model numbers but a Liana battery is bigger and fits the Jimny tray.

The procedure is the same regardless of year or VVT, so info from anyone that has done a similar swap will be relevant to you.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Riccy

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01 Feb 2017 13:15 #177613 by gilburton
I was going to do this very swap as I thought my 2008 had a head problem but turned out to be the radiator so I have a 27000 mile Swift sport engine sitting in my garage lol
Basically you have to just use the bare engine and swap all the other bits from the Jimny over inc the throttle body but keep the Swift injectors and the ECU learns the new settings.
If anyone wants an engine let me know.
This link might help?

www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30308

I started off high and worked my way down ever since :-)

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01 Feb 2017 21:01 #177639 by Keithy
Take the nipple from the M13 and use that one...it's locktite'd but just warm it up and remove.

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01 Feb 2017 21:29 #177640 by Riccy
Thanks for the info guys, ive edited the list to suit.

Thanks Keithy i will probably just buy a new nipple as they are cheap enough, and means that the old M13 vvt might be useful as a spare for someone on here (only done 43k). Out of interest, what gearbox are you running in your 1.6 turbo nutter machine? Im also thinking about changing it to a R7ME box and manual t-box from a 2004ish jimny. a few people expressed doubts about the R72 box and push-button t-box i have handling the extra power of the 1.6.

After reading various posts about belt tensioner and crank pulley problems ive decided to renew them whilst its out. It does make some bearing noises when cold sometimes so worth doing i think.

Spoke to my usual mechanic on monday who said bring it round with the M16 engine for a look (will get on sat hopefully). Didnt sound like a massive job for them which is promising :-)

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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01 Feb 2017 21:37 #177641 by gilburton
Technically it's not difficult it's more time consuming stripping and swapping the parts over.

I started off high and worked my way down ever since :-)

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01 Feb 2017 21:45 #177642 by Riccy
i know, its annoying that i dont have anywhere to do it, or i would be keen to try myself. i also dont have a engine stand or lift, etc, etc.

The garage was good value when i had the gearbox repairs and other odd jobs sorted last year and are local, so my best option really. For example: removing the gearbox, sending it away, refitting and checking and fluids cost £150 inc vat (the actual specialist gearbox rebuild was £650 however :-( )

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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01 Feb 2017 21:49 #177643 by gilburton
Yeah I know that's what partially stopped me swapping my engine as I couldn't manage the swap on my own(I'm old lol)
I had my gearbox rebuilt and I got it done for app that price but inc a clutch
I'm one of the ones that had the oil leak problem as well.

I started off high and worked my way down ever since :-)

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02 Feb 2017 08:46 #177650 by Keithy
Mines a 2001 gbox and tbox Riccy.

Whereabouts are you Gil.....and how much do you want for the engine/do you want a price for it fitting?

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