Chassis after shot blasting treatment.

Ok lads I need to line up my Ducks here and I need some sage advice ( there are a lot of us sages on here but advice....?) or a slagging with high levels of technical content.
The Chassis will come back blasted and zinc primed . Has anyone done it before and could you give me some pointers? Really appreciate your experiences.
So I'm thinking 

1 Spray the chassis with Lowes Brilliant gloss white (I'm 50 in December and I just want to be able to see everything black absorbs light so much)

2 Then spray the chassis and floor pannels with the rubbery stuff to absorb stone chips ( I need a product name anyone).

3.Once this is all done going to spray all the internal chassis parts with grey Waxoyl. Doing the underbody white as well.

4 Engine Bay in Lowes Brilliant white gloss for light and vision. And I'm installing a switched LED to the underside of the bonnet in the unlightly event that I ever need it.(Now that I've made this remark Ill never be out from under it)

Going for something like this 

   

If you take the time to give me your advice I'm grateful . DB

 

I can advise with some but not all of your queries.

Firstly though a point relating to the shot blasting. Are they or can they clean the inside of the chassis rails? There are chemical processes that can do every mm of the steel but then you need to protect every mm which is where galvanizing comes in.

That, obviously is your choice.

On my LC I stripped the axles and had them shot blasted. I then painted them with a white oxide! paint topped with bitumastic metal coating. The bitumastic is semi flexible and easily repairable if damaged.

Roger

Ok Roger going to live with Waxoyl in the chassis rails dont think they have the lance to do the inner rails. and will start looking for Bitumastic over here thank Roger. 

Lambert yeah is raptor the same thing if it is, I just think the textured finish creates a key for more gunk to stick to it or adhere. If Im wrong what bed liner product do you think would do the job? Have you used any? What's your take on it so far if you have it on your Jimny.  

Rodger did you use an auto-specific bitumastic or a builders version as there seems to be mostly builders providers selling it here and seems reasonablely inexpensive €30 for 5 liters. 

Regarding the chassis I would recommend hot dip galvanizing because it will also protect the inside and in addition to great cohesion it also protects electrolytical. Painting on top of zinc dip galvanized surfaces is not so easy. You might want to lightly abrade or sweep blast the surface and then apply 125um surface tolerant high solid epoxy and on top 50um aliphatic polyurethane.

Your zinc primed chassis could be different products. If it is zinc rich epoxy primer or zinc ethyl silicate primer then I would recommend products of the same manufacturer as the primer with an intermediate coat of 110um (4.4mils) two pack epoxy polyamide and a top coat of 50um (2mils) two pack aliphatic polyurethane coating.

The Bitumastic paint is basic and is available from any builders merchants or Screwfix/Toolstation. The price in the UK is around the £20 per 5 litres.

From memory painting zinc requires either ageing, around 6 months, or specific primers. I left the zinc as was. A galvanized surface is around 0.008" thick and should last 2-3 years per thou. Obviously a lot longer if you protect it.

Roger

Sound Rodger thanks.