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G13BB 1999 Jimny radiator hose ID

  • Owl
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15 Apr 2020 07:20 #221085 by Owl
Hi All, does anyone know what the inner diameter of the top radiator is?

Was thinking of a water temp gauge adaptor fitting? To satisfy my engine temp curiosity, Or unholy worry of overheating the engine.

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15 Apr 2020 08:55 #221086 by RainerK
Sorry, I do not know the hose ID.

I would think, that the water temperature at the top Of the radiator is not the hottest spot. Usually a temperature measurement would be at the cylinder head around the 3rd cylinder, supposedly the hottest spot.

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15 Apr 2020 09:46 #221087 by Owl
Thanks Rainer, I would have thought monitoring the water temp would give a reasonable general idea of the cooling system efficacy.

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16 Apr 2020 09:36 #221124 by Scimike
The temperature of the coolant will give you an idea of how hard the system is working as you wanted, but as RainerK said its not the actual engine temperature which will always be hotter.
If you fit a gauge first you will need to determine what is the normal operation range for your current cooling system and make a note of the high / low temperature reading. After this anything above or below this is an indication that you are operating outside it's normal range. It may not actual be an issue and how much higher you can go before failure is the unknown part, but at least you have the indication you wanted.
A low reading usually indicates you have lost your coolant.:laugh:

Once you have a gauge fitted it will become the focus of ever journey. I speak from experience as an ex Reliant Scimitar owner, gauge fitted as standard, overheating optional......:laugh: :silly:
The following user(s) said Thank You: Owl

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16 Apr 2020 10:08 - 16 Apr 2020 10:08 #221125 by Max Headroom
Yep - I'd completely agree with that; remember that your car has a water pump and is pumping the coolant around the system.

(I have a 1930s car not fitted with a water pump, that relies solely on 'thermo-syphon' to move the coolant around, so getting stuck in traffic with such a car is a potential nightmare with no air moving through the radiator :S)


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
Last edit: 16 Apr 2020 10:08 by Max Headroom.

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16 Apr 2020 18:35 #221137 by Lambert
Having had an obd2 display giving coolant temperature among other things it makes you completely paranoid about even one degree of variance outside what you consider normal and totally ruins the driving experience to the point where you can become preoccupied with it to the detriment of what is happening around you. This is why the dashboard guage is so inaccurate and only warns of a significant issue.

Dreadnaught (black 2011)

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17 Apr 2020 12:49 #221160 by Owl
Spot on Lambert, the cluster temp gauge sits around the middle of the gauge sweep, if it moves up, its like a runaway train and you have cooked the engine. Well that was my experience. Thinking of what RainerK was saying, probably a set of extractors would help dissipate (extract) the hot gases more quickly and keep the head and engine temp running cooler. Is that a fair theory.

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18 Apr 2020 19:15 - 18 Apr 2020 19:21 #221223 by Scimike
Hi Owl,
Not 100% sure of your vision, but the existing cooling system is more than adequate to keep the engine temperature under control, just as Suzuki designed it.
Are you having overheating issues?
If you are having problems it's because one of the system components is at fault or failing. They all need to work together inorder to maintain the correct operating temperature range. The components are many, but from experience the heat exchanger (radiator) is an item that is usually neglected on older vehicles. They stop working efficiently, blocked or damaged matrix, blocked coolant pipes and corrosion of the matrix all conspire to prevent it from cooling the engine.
Have a feel of the core when the thermostat opens, it should go from cold to hot all over the matrix (no cool spots) instantly, it should be too hot to touch for any period of time. If you have cool spots or it takes a few minutes to get hot I would investigate it's condition further.

Sorry if you have already been down this route, but in my opinion there should be no reason to improve the standard cooling system if everything is in prime condition.

If everything is ok and you just want a temperature gauge go for it, but as it's been said, they ruin the drive as you just spend your time worrying about 1degC hotter than yesterday :laugh:
All the best
Mike
Last edit: 18 Apr 2020 19:21 by Scimike.

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19 Apr 2020 00:50 #221250 by Owl
Thanks Mike, I have a new koyo radiator and new hoses and its not overheating but the last episode of overheating came about from pin hole in top hose, going up a mountain, cooked the engine. I saw the temp gauge move like a freight train from normal to boiled and in a matter of 15 seconds all was too late from there. Alloy block and alloy head …..blown head gasket, tow home, top end rebuild.

Ive repaired it, but the trauma lingers on haha, I need cooling sys therapy.

Seriously over here its hotter than hell in summer, and cold as an esky full of ice in winter. I think the engine could use cooling assistance in summer

To make it more sinister, my cluster light(s) don't work on the right hand side where the temp gauge is, so I cant see it at night. So the worry is amplified in that situation. A lit up gauge could be therapeutic.

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19 Apr 2020 01:52 - 19 Apr 2020 01:54 #221252 by Scimike
Ah - understand your concerns.
I guess it was loss of system pressure resulting in localised head boiling and over temperature. It's a pity no one makes a simple over temp / under pressure alarm, a loud buzzer is better than a gauge.
Have you considered a product like Evans waterless coolant? It will not boil even if the pressure fails, so in theory it will keep you going even if the radiator cap falls off. It's expensive unfortunately, and it's not as efficient as water / glycol for heat transfer. This means the engine runs slightly hotter in theory under normal conditions. A lot of people use it in the classic car world, but I personally have never been convinced it's worth the extra cost. Just throwing it out for consideration, not a recommendation.

www.evanscoolants.co.uk/

All the best
Mike
Last edit: 19 Apr 2020 01:54 by Scimike.

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19 Apr 2020 03:11 #221253 by Owl
Mike thanks again, in the old days of the series LR, we had a lot of problems with fuel delivery in the hot weather used to get vapour lock I think it was called, the rover would bunny hop and stop, wouldn't start until cooled down. Point of that was there was a solution.

The fix was to fit an electric fuel pump 3psi or under, I used one off an British car, SU fuel pump and never had a problem since fitting that.

Was wondering if there possibly could be a fit-out for a manual override switch for the thermatic fan or a more maybe a more efficient electric fan to enhance air flow over the engine? Might be worth quizzing the local radiator expert., Theres a knowledgeable cooling sys specialist close by I'll talk to him about what can be of help if anything. There is a lot of radiators coming out of Ch-eye-na but are appalling quality and most wont fit. Got 2 in the shed.

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19 Apr 2020 03:16 #221254 by Owl
For anyone interested 28mm would be a close measurement of the inner diameter of the top hose. If you buy an inline adaptor the 28mm is the one to get.

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