Aluminium Epoxy?

Hi,
Can anyone suggest, apart from pulling the Engine out how to repair a crack in Engine Block/Timing Case,the location being where the Alternator adjuster retaining Screw is tightened I noticed this as I was about to change the Belts,can anyone name a good Ally/Metal Bond Epoxy & what would the success rate would be?I'm guessing there is someone out there that has used such stuff ?
Keith

I'd use any of the magic metals.....I have a £500 tub of ceramic carbide I use for bodg...er repairing unique parts.....and a tig welder if I want a proper job.

Saw a Cosworth race head repaired with JB weld.....still running afaik.

Magic metals - might hold or might not? Can't say I've been impressed to date. Tend to think of it as an aesthetic bodge material and on an engine block (with heat cycles) I have serious doubts as to longevity of 'repair'. Not what you want to hear but I've got to be honest.

Thanks for the reply I cant get doin taking the engine out gonna try & slacken the Bolt & hopefully get the Belts changed just have to tighten it up very gingerly

Keith

Heres a picture of the offending article that I need to repair 'any ideas' I hopeB)

Keith

I would be tempted to drill it out and put a bolt through with a nylock nut and a washer at each side, as well as the magic metal stuff on the crack.

The nut/bolt/washers will spread the load around the hole rather than in it directly, hopefully making it last longer for you.

While the belts are off have a check for play in the crank pulley. Its usually that on its way out that kills off belts

It's hard to tell from the picture, but I assume the crack is all the way through to the threaded hole into which the bracket bolt is fitted?

If so action of the bolt tightening will force crack gap larger, so I doubt any metal glue will cope with this. I have used magic metal myself successfully, but it's not for this job in my humble opinion.

So possible options:-
1)I good welder should be able to get a tig in and make a seam repair. Not one for a DIY'er in my opinion, but a possibility.
2) Put a smaller (clearance) longer bolt through the hole and use penny washers and a nylock nut on the other side and pinch it all up. This removes the opening action of the current bolt in the threaded hole, you have replaced it with a pinch action nut / bolt over the metal.
3) live with it, it's probably been like that for a while.

Hope you can visualise my poor description for option 2 If it was mine I would try opinion 2.

It's probably cracked because it's been overtightened in the past, or the threads have "picked-up" or it's all cross threaded, ultimately applying too much pressure on the assembly and piping the crack to alleviate.
Mike


Edit

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Riccy beat me to it, but it's the same solution so it must be good, two votes.

Thats the engine block....weld it easy enough to get to.

Thanks for your input all sounds good to me not attempted to loosen the bolt yet damn ham fisted mechanics that have to over tighten things

Keith

Tha more I look round this Xar the more I seem to find wrong with it I appreciate its had a hard 14 years judging by the rust ,but I must say your options are feasible along with Riccy,s ideas so thanks again for your help

Keith