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Lambert's heater fix

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15 Jan 2020 17:01 - 15 Jan 2020 17:03 #217285 by Max Headroom
Hi Lambert

HAPPY NEW YEAR MATEY!

Just a quick question, you mentioned using Liqui-Moly Radiator cleaner with good results.

I'm thinking of doing the same thing and wanted some advice.
There are two types of this stuff - which one did you use?
Liqui 5189 Moly Pro-Line Radiator Cleaner 1L - Black tin (about £16 from Amazon
Liqui Moly Radiator Cleaner 300ml - Silver tin (about £7 from Amazon)

How did you go about draining the system - bottom pipe on rad? Did you run it with it drained to pump the dregs out? Did you attempt to back-flush (the heater matrix) with a hose-pipe and if so how?

I'm convinced that my heater matrix might be blocked because as you descibed yours, I just get tepid heat from it. Temp indications are spot on (a needles width below half) the same as everyone elses it seems.
Thermostat is relatively new (I had a leak from it last year so it was replaced) and the system was drained (but not flushed) a couple of years back (I did this because when I acquired the car the coolant looked black).

I've tried blocking the lower radiator grille to see if this helps - it doesn't; the temp gauge remains the same - the only difference from doing this is it makes the heat get tepid quicker!

Any advice appreciated


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
Last edit: 15 Jan 2020 17:03 by Max Headroom.

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15 Jan 2020 19:06 #217288 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic Lambert's heater fix
Whatcha. Right I used the silver tin one but 2 of them as they were about 4 quid from Andrew Page motor factors if you have one near you. Drained the radiator via the stopcock on the bottom of the radiator, much easier than fighting the bottom hose off. As I had lost some coolant to the expansion tank I topped the rad with about half the first can till it was full and ran the car up to temperature. Next dropped the coolant and flushed it with water and it was bubble central. Dropped that out and put the other can and a half in and topped up with water and ran up to temperature and then for another half hour with the heater on full which over about 20 minutes went from warm to scorchio. Flushed it again and make no mistake it's like an ibiza foam party but without the bikinis. Took another flush to get it clean enough for coolant and then 50.50 simple blue glycol 2 year coolant water. So far the heater remains proper hot like it should be.

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15 Jan 2020 22:12 #217291 by stimpy
Replied by stimpy on topic Lambert's heater fix
Lambertr - Giggles at the Ibiza foam party reference!!.. Though I wonder just how many folks you get in thereB)

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15 Jan 2020 23:14 #217292 by Max Headroom
Replied by Max Headroom on topic Lambert's heater fix
Thanks Lambert - excellent reply

I hadn't realised there was a drain tap - that makes life easier.

So (.. without having any instructions for this product to hand), I'm assuming that the cooling system doesn't actually need to be full to the top to do this job - like it's the foam that is going through it that is actually clearing it out rather than fluid?

There seems to be some doubt which coolant should be used IAT or OAT - even when I asked Suzuki what the coolant spec was they didn't seem to have an answer! I'm sure mine has the blue glycol stuff but...
I'm tempted to use Prestone - its claimed to be for all engines no matter what the manufacturers spec, can be mixed with any type of existing coolant products, and has a 10 year life.

PRESTONE


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16 Jan 2020 05:12 #217293 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic Lambert's heater fix
When I was filling it with water after adding the cleaner I wasn't being diligent about filling it thoroughly and bleeding it out. I just filled the radiator and put the cap back on hence it being able to provide so many bubbles. One thing I forgot to mention the cleaner contains formaldehyde amongst various other nasty chemicals and needs to be disposed of in an environmentally sensitive manner not just down the surface water drains. I used a plastic boot liner out of an old Mazda 323 as a catch tray between the wheels. It is not nice stuff.

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16 Jan 2020 05:33 #217294 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic Lambert's heater fix
Also also. I don't know what caused my initial overheating this time round, it could be that something doesn't like the red oat coolant I used previously and that somehow caused a buildup of the sludge I found. Or because this was the first chemical flush in 100k instead of just a water flush it could be a residue over time issue. In hindsight I should have probably done the chemical clean when I first had to replace the leaking radiator/top hose/seized rad cap and then I might have saved replacement of the entire system the second time it got warm. I just don't know. Anyway because I am on a set of year old components and have done a thorough chemical clean and still don't know if it was the wrong coolant I have changed to a simple blue ethylene glycol 2 year and then I have a reason to change it more frequently and be even more thorough about keeping the insides clean and fresh. In other words I am now paranoid about it and will be changing my coolant every second oil change.

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16 Jan 2020 08:21 - 16 Jan 2020 08:35 #217298 by Max Headroom
Replied by Max Headroom on topic Lambert's heater fix
Thanks for the further details, Lambert. This is all very useful stuff.

The BigJimny Wiki states that the coolant above all else, MUST BE "STRICTLY SILICATE FREE" (and I think that is possibly true of all Japanese cars)

It also states:
It SHOULD BE
Ethylene-glycol;
Preferably 2-EHA free;
Preferably phosphated;
And, if diluting a coolant concentrate with water, use only distilled water (which I'm sure is different to De-ionised water)

The colours of coolant fluids are what confuses a lot of folk and the type of fluid is not to be defined by its colour, one example of this is the Halfords Silicate free coolant which is pink (I know because I have some in my workshop) and Bluecol brand is red, whereas I have found others that are blue, green or even yellow!

Reading several articles late last night leads me to think that its the mixing of the two different types of fluids that causes sludge to occur, so if someone has topped up with the wrong fluid thats where the problems begin.
Like you I don't know where the blockage is or what has caused it (I'm only assuming it is the heater matrix!)

For anyone else following this thread other useful information for mixing a 50/50 coolant is knowing the Jimny's coolant capacity which I found in the attached notes






Oh yes, and don't get this stuff on your paintwork - or if you do - wash it off thoroughly and immediately


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
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Last edit: 16 Jan 2020 08:35 by Max Headroom.

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