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Battery power through firewall on RHD 2007 JLX

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01 Jan 2020 14:59 #216885 by CJ Davies
I've found a few previous threads asking this same question, but couldn't figure it out from the responses. Essentially I want to run wires from the battery, through the firewall & into the cabin (making use of an existing hole). I don't want to splice off the lighter socket because I'll just end up blowing a lot of 10A fuses.

The first option I saw discussed is the passenger footwell & while my car (RHD) does have a circular cut out in the liner at the position described, there is no corresponding hole in the metal.

The second option discussed are the large grommets at the top left & right of the engine bay, which are pretty obvious from the engine side - but I can't figure out where they emerge inside the cabin. Am I going to have to rip the whole dash apart?
The following user(s) said Thank You: TillymintDLG

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01 Jan 2020 15:33 - 01 Jan 2020 15:43 #216886 by Scimike
Behind the battery is the main loom entry point, it has a large grommet to seal between the engine bay and cabin side. It emerges cabin side just above/right of the accelerator pedal, it's easy to see if you look up from the foot well, it's still a large cable form as it enters. I pushed a knitting needle (don't tell the wife if not your own) through the side of this grommet from the engine side and and pulled through a 2.5mm2 supply cable fused from the battery. As the knitting needle made a round hole it's still a good seal to the cable I pulled through. Plenty of space for this if you take your time and feel for the path free of cables, but as a waning avoid a gung ho approach that could damage existing cables.
Not saying it's the best route, but worked for me on my 2009 RHD and avoids drilling holes etc.
Good luck
Mike

Here is a picture of the entry point, red cable is the one I pulled in
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Last edit: 01 Jan 2020 15:43 by Scimike.

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01 Jan 2020 18:35 #216899 by jackonlyjack

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02 Jan 2020 13:26 #216921 by DrRobin
Hi,

I took a couple of cables through the rubber grommet on the passenger side, as jackonlyjack says it is behind the glove box close to a box with lots of wires (ECU). It was easy to get the cable through this side as I could see the cables easily in the engine bay without removing anything.

2011 Blue Jimny SZ3, Xtrons Head Unit, DAB, Front and Rear Cameras, TPMS, K&N, Bosch Aerotwin blades, LED side and interior lights, boot light, parcel shelf. Osram Nightbreakers

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04 Jan 2020 14:57 - 04 Jan 2020 14:58 #216991 by CJ Davies
Thanks all, this really helps clear things up. The passenger side seems like the easier approach, even if it means running longer wires inside the engine bay. Then I can also use the ledge above the globebox for a little breakout box with fuse/switch/voltage display etc. Am I right in thinking it's the bundle of wires that comes out just underneath the ECU (the one wrapped in yellow tape in my photo)?



At the battery end, I'm assuming I can just crimp ring connectors onto the wires & put them under the nuts?

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Last edit: 04 Jan 2020 14:58 by CJ Davies.

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05 Jan 2020 07:35 #217015 by Jimx5
As you fit the ring terminal make it into as short a lead as possible 3" or so and fit an in-line 10a fuse, safety first as you don't want that 12v tap rubbing and shorting any where.

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03 Feb 2020 18:17 #218026 by CJ Davies
Finally had some time to get this done. I tried the passenger side first, but the ABS box (I think that's what it is - thing with all the hardlines coming out of it?) meant I couldn't get a good angle on the grommet, so I pulled the battery out to get access to the grommet on the driver side instead. Used the handle end of a paintbrush to poke through - didn't have a knitting needle to hand!

The red plastic cover on the +ve terminal broke off in my hand, so I zip-tied it back on as I don't want an exposed +ve terminal that close to the bonnet. Connectors are crimped, then soldered, then heatshrink'ed. I've routed/zip-tied the wires to try to prevent any rubbing. Atm I just have them terminated in Wago blocks in the spare DIN pocket above my radio, with a switch & voltage display from my spares box - I'll probably make a proper little switch panel to go there eventually. Or at least that's what I'm telling myself...

Anything obviously wrong/dangerous, please let me know!







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03 Feb 2020 19:45 #218034 by Scimike
Looks good.
Only comment is the cable tied to the battery clamp bracket. It's pushed against the edge of the bracket and could over time wear through the insulation. Place a rubber tube over bracket edge to protect cable or tie the cable to a flat area. Hope you can understand what I am trying to say.
Mike

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04 Feb 2020 07:53 #218039 by CJ Davies
Yup I understand - I actually tied it to the battery clamp as that metal had a less sharp edge to it than the edge of the engine bay where the wire wanted to naturally rest. I'll wrap something extra around it.

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04 Feb 2020 14:31 #218042 by RainerK
I put the cables into a corrugated pipe. This way I do not have to worry about scratching and martens.
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27 Feb 2020 11:37 #219151 by TillymintDLG
I was looking to do the same thing to fit a USB charger and searched for 'Live Feed' and this post came up, Brilliant!
After faffing around under the bonnet/footwell in the bloody rain, I decided to get the Fluke out and try and find a live inside..This one showed promise and checked the wiring diagram and it is the IGN live from the fusebox (15A).

Feed Wire


Now to find somewhere 'easy' to fit the charger. After scrabbling around in the footwell again, I decided the back of the coin tray needed a 25mm hole in it. DON'T use a cone drill like I did, I nearly went into a harness that was hiding behind it! Use a 25mm hole saw instead.

Hole


Meter/Charger That website link: kek.gg/u/9-67



Done.When you turn ignition to ACC, it shows the state of charge in the Batt, when you turn on the ignition and start the engine it then shows the charge current going into the Batt.
And when you plug something into the USB port, it shows how much current it is using!

Done
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