BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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Fuel tank removal procedure
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Does anyone have specific warnings, notes and suggestions on how to properly and easily remove the fuel tank from a petrol Jimny 3?
Is there anything specific to take care of before, during or after the removal?
Also, anything special to do during reinstallation?
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
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You cannot siphon as there is a trap thing at the hose connection into the tank, so the only way to empty it is to run it dry with the engine or remove the top plate where the pump and filter arrangement is. This can only be reached when its out unfortunately.
to remove:
- first disconnect the battery and short both leads to the body to earth everything. Have a foam or CO fire extinguisher to hand and no smoking/sparks/fire, etc.
- remove the rear prop as it gets in the way.
- undo the clips on the two pipes connected to the fuel filler cap and free off the pipes. Access through the rear wheel arch. There is some small plastic trim to remove. DO NOT try to undo the screws either side of the filler cap as they WILL snap and cause hassle.
- pull away the two hoses and stuff with rags.
- undo the bolts holding the tank to the chassis, supporting it somehow. Its not heavy when empty, but if full is 45+kg. I cant remember how many bolts but its about 4 or 5 that hold it in.
- lower the tank enough to reach the small bolts on the top. Blow over with an airline to clear loose crap and remove the small bolts. The fuel pump/filter arrangement will remove all as one and is about 30cm (the depth of the tank). Pipes do not need to be disconnected as there is enough flex, but the wiring connector may need to be unplugged.
- tank is now out. I would advise protecting the filter setup with some clean plastic clingfilm or bags, likewise for the tank to prevent dirt ingress.
- refitting is the reverse, except making even more sure everything is super clean.
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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The suggestion with disconnecting the battery first is a good one. Perhaps also ground the chassis to proper earth (to earth in a nearby 220 V AC el. power socket).
I have already unbolted the bolts holding the fuel filler pipe to the body. No problems there, except rust around that body hole ...
Riccy, thank you very much for a fine and compact guide. I will make a small wiki article from that.
What do you think if the fuel tank can be temporarily lowered by about 15 cm without removing the fuel pump from it and without disconnecting any pipes and wires from the tank or the pump?
My primary reason for lowering or removing the fuel tank is to perform some proper anti rust underbody coating. I got fed up with seeing rotten rear floor sections on my previous Jimnys. Now I have an almost rust free one and I intend to act preventively.
Last question - If I do remove the fuel pump, would it make sense to replace the petrol fuel filter while I am at it? The vehicle has traveled about 60 000 miles, which is almost half of filter's service life.
Where can I get a high quality replacement filter?
Could the existing filter be cleaned?
Has anyone ever had an issue with a clogged petrol fuel filter in a Jimny?
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I would suggest that a jump lead connecting the car to any surrounding exposed metalwork would be sufficient. As an electrician, I would call that 'equipotential bonding'. Its purpose is to make everything exposed and conductive connected together, thus meaning the potential difference is 0 volts. You could check this by using a basic A/C multimeter and testing for voltage between the car and anything close. Simpler just to link with the jump leads as suggested above.
Yes you should be able to just lower the tank without removing the pump/filter arrangement for access. I would think upto 20cm fairly easily.
Not sure about the filters, I sort of assumed it was a 'for life' filter and just kept it clean and put back in. It didnt look worn or clogged and the car has done 85000 miles or so. If your filter looks discolored it would definatley be worth putting a new one in as thats the only way to get access.
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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Just run the tank as low as you dare to make it lighter. Remove the rear prop and then the filler neck bolts.
Support the tank on a jack with a thick sheet of wood to spread the pressure of the jack. Undo the tank bolts and lower it on the jack a little bit. Undo the electrical plug and fuel lines, noting which went where and lower the tank fully.
Grease the tank bolts with copper grease before re-fitting and soak with WD40 for a day or so before you remove the tank to help prevent them from sheering.
There's no power to the pump or sender unit when the ignition is off, so why are we disconnecting the battery?
If the filler neck bolts sheer it's no biggie really. Just put your left hand up into the wheel arch to push it into place and stick a rag into the filler hole and drill new holes next to the old through the body and the plate around the filler and use automotive self tappers to hold the filler neck in place next to the old bolts.
Just don't drill too fast. The metal is so thin you drill through it so quickly that no heat is generated and you've eleminated fumes with the rag, plus you're in open air.
Job done.
It could be the ideal opportunity to fit an aftermarket tank guard if you are an off roader.
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?tit...val_and_installation
Kirkynut, I agree that it is not that much of a project, but it should neither be taken so lightly. For example, not taking care to return the propeller shaft to its original mounting position can lead to its vibrations.
I have added some of your remarks into the wiki guide as well.
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Kirkynut - my thing with the grounding relates to idiot proofing/liability issues with numpties trying to follow the guide Im an electrician so deal with explosive atmospheres now and then, which is very different. Get it wrong and boom!
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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no hoses are disconnected so safe enough to use a battery drill at the moment. any suggestions are welcome.
will also have a competent friend present and an extinguisher,
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going to clean the filter once he pumps out the tank.
more seized bolts, got three moving, after 2 nights wd40 and tapping with a hammer.
just perseverence for the other 3. should take another couple of days.
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Mr CC wrote: absolute pain of a job but got it done. time to clean off then hammerite the floor underneath, and then stone chip.
going to clean the filter once he pumps out the tank.
more seized bolts, got three moving, after 2 nights wd40 and tapping with a hammer.
just perseverence for the other 3. should take another couple of days.
Such fun eh!
Why do we do this stuff?
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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Bosanek wrote: Here is the new wiki guide:
www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?tit...val_and_installation
Kirkynut, I agree that it is not that much of a project, but it should neither be taken so lightly. For example, not taking care to return the propeller shaft to its original mounting position can lead to its vibrations.
I have added some of your remarks into the wiki guide as well.
Just two comments
I was always planning to do this with my car as well just did not have the balls to actually do it My Idea once the tank is out to cut a little service window for accessing the top of the tank from inside the car instead of taking the tank out again if needed later. I think of a simple riveted metal plate as a lid. (Rubber or silicon applied around for sealing).
How to identify the right position of shaft if no mark has been taken before removal? Or like in a situation when someone fits new/aftermarket shafts?
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