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Lack of power on M13A engine

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27 Mar 2019 07:39 #205120 by kirkynut
Just read this for the first time and what an emotional rollercoaster- it's the cat, then the brakes and now the rear axle!

Let's stop a moment and start looking at this with some tests to provide some evidence of what is occurring, rather than a load of guesses.

Generally if a cat is blocked you lack power and it might struggle to rev. It might make rattling noises too. These depend on how it's blocked and how much it has broken down inside. It will always be down on power and usually struggles to rev when under load.

Changing a cat yourself for a cheap aftermarket one to my mind is just hassle unless you have access to heat as the bolts will be rushed badly. They're not that expensive fitted at a garage.

So if you have these symptoms, they are not linked to the brakes or the rear axle.

If a brake calliper or wheel cylinder is seized, the wheel on that corner will usually feel hotter than the others after a good drive. If really seized it will be really hot to the touch.

Jack up each wheel indepently and chock the fronts when you raise the rears as you'll need to take the handbrake off. Spin each wheel whilst off the ground. The fronts should just spin freely, the rears will spin but you'll have some drag from the transmission.

If one is seized it will not spin and will require effort to make it turn.

As for the rear diff, generally, if it's not whining, it's fine. Undo the filler plug and see if it needs more oil. They use EP90. Get some if it needs topping up and if you buy the 1 litre bottles from Halfords, they have a great pull out spout that you pop in the filler hole and squirt it in with until it runs out of the hole.

If it doesn't whine when driven or make awful grinding or banging noises when you're testing the brakes at the rear, I'd say it's fine.

If you can't get the diff filler plug undone by using a ratchet, which isn't really the exact size as it's 10mm, not 1/4 inch, try a set of mole grips around the outside and tap them round with a hammer.

I hope these tests help you move forward and take the guess work out of the matter.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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28 Mar 2019 12:20 #205192 by ipop
Replied by ipop on topic Lack of power on M13A engine
Hello kirkynut,

Yesterday I got my crankshaft sensor replaced. After 2 tests on 40km on a steep hill, the car doesn't stop suddenly stop, like in the following video (issue here
- not my video). So, on issue down.

Cat
The engine sounds really good. I've watched some videos on yt about bogged cats, but it definitely doesn't sound like one. No rattling noises, no nothing.

Rear axle
I've talked with the mechanic about it and it's definitely not an issue for the slow acceleration. It doesn't sound weird, no crankling or any other noise.

Brakes
Even if I used the brake pretty often, after these 40km, the wheels weren't hot at all (truth being said, I have 5cm spacers betweent he axle and the wheel). Kinda impossible to test this with my setup and this kind of test.

I'll continue investigating the breaks...seems like it's the way to go.

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29 Mar 2019 07:23 #205224 by kirkynut
I'm guessing that the crank sensor made no difference and I wouldn't have thought it would. They generally work or don't work. The engine won't run if it's broken.

The engine won't sound any different if the cat is blocked, it just won't want to rev under load.

5mm wheel spacers won't make any difference to seized brakes heating up the wheel. They're made of metal that transmits heat and are only 5mm.

Have you jacked up each wheel like I said?

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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29 Mar 2019 07:29 #205227 by kirkynut
I've just gone back over this to see if I've missed anything. So you've put on 195/80/15 extreme mud terrain tyres I see.

They will have a significant impact on the car. The drag they cause is massive, hence the noise they make going down the road.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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29 Mar 2019 07:36 #205229 by yakuza
Replied by yakuza on topic Lack of power on M13A engine

kirkynut wrote: The engine won't sound any different if the cat is blocked, it just won't want to rev under load.
Kirkynut

Mine was just plain slow... Most noticeable lack of power on high revs.
It came gradually after driving hard with a trailer for a 8 hour drive.

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.

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29 Mar 2019 08:26 #205230 by ipop
Replied by ipop on topic Lack of power on M13A engine

5mm wheel spacers won't make any difference to seized brakes heating up the wheel. They're made of metal that transmits heat and are only 5mm.

@kirkynut - small typo, it's 5cm spacers, not 5mm. I didn't have time to jack up the car, but I'll do it tomorrow.

Long story short: 195/80/R15 extreme mud tyres (don't care about the noise), the car doesn't accelerate over 80km/h. But going to 80kmh takes a veeery long time. Also, the only gear where I feel some power is 1st one on 4L.

Crankshaft sensor
I've replaced the crankshaft sensor to fix in problem presented in the video. After driving up on a hill, with over 4000rpm (usually 80km/h, 3rd gear or 60km/h 2nd gear) the engine was just stopping. It was either the camshaft or the crankshaft sensor, so I replaced both of them. Issue fixed :dry:

Cat
I went ahead an put somone behing the wheel and just push the acceleration. There is no weird noise coming the cat itself...

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31 Mar 2019 14:30 - 31 Mar 2019 14:31 #205335 by ipop
Replied by ipop on topic Lack of power on M13A engine
I've made the tests with the wheels - videos here photos.app.goo.gl/otcXvx8yKfe2GCjA8

Conclusions:
- weird sound coming from the right wheel (as you can hear in the videos)
- the interior of the braking disk was hotter on right side compared to the left (40 celsius vs 36 celsius) and even after a couple of minutes, there was still a 4 degrees difference (21 celsius vs 25 celsius)
- the temperature was measure on the interior of the braking disk on each side, on the exact same spot (photo from the top of the wheel image.prntscr.com/image/zbmGurcHSeygUwomaOMUGQ.png )
- not sure how much time the front wheels should rotate freely
- the back wheels rotating only when doing it by hand (logic, because they were connected to the transmission)
- forgot to measure their temperature too...
Last edit: 31 Mar 2019 14:31 by ipop.

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