BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
Click HERE for details
2 Inch Lift
But being a newish Jimny owner I'm looking for some advice.
I have searched the forum and have found a mixture of answers.
Im fitting a pro comp 2 inch lift soon so what my thinking is;
Plenty of WD40 before hand (prepared to grind bolts off if seized), jack up on axle stands under chassis, then use jack under axle to relieve pressure, undo and remove shocks then drop the axle via the jack, and then the springs should come out? Is this the same on both axles?
Will it drop far enough due to brake lines etc?
Any extra hints or tips would be much appreciated.
Many thanks in advance
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If your front shocks are of no use cut the nuts off with slitting disc on grinder it save time
Also the bushes on your new shocks may need shaving a tad to fit
I used wd40 evey day for a week before nothing snapped off
Jack
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Cheers
Gold Jimny the best colour (sold)
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Turbo m13a, arbs, floating rear shafts, disc conversion rear, vented front conversion. 245 70 16. Winch, 3" lift, 4:16 trans hd shafts and CVS
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1390_taz wrote: To give you that extra room just unbolt the brake calipers. The back is easy to do. A pair of mole grips to grip the shocks when undoing the top mounts will also help.
Keith
Fantastic Cheers
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jackonlyjack wrote: On the rear un clip the brake hose on the chassis and axle
If your front shocks are of no use cut the nuts off with slitting disc on grinder it save time
Also the bushes on your new shocks may need shaving a tad to fit
I used wd40 evey day for a week before nothing snapped off
Jack
I get the kit tomorrow but I think ill dedicate some more WD40 time
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kirkynut wrote: You want to let the axles drop once the shocks are un bolted from them. Then the spring drops out. So yes, Jack the chassis up as far as you can and drop it on axle stands. Taking the wheels off helps as they raise it above the limit of the axle stands and stop the axle dropping.
Yes, you need to unbolt the front brake calipers. The rear brakes don't need touching as there is a flexible hose from the chassis to the axle. At least you don't have to disturb the hydraulics, so no bleeding required.
The rear shock top bushes are the ones that might need cutting down to fit as they're too wide when they arrive.
The rear shock top bolts are the hardest due to lack of space to deal with corroded bolts. You might not even be able to get a 6 sided socket on, so risk rounding the bolt head off with a 12 sided ring spanner.
So concentrate your WD40 preparation on those!
Be careful with the rear shock bottom bolts as they've been known to snap in the axle and that's a lot of drilling to do otherwise!
You may consider drilling them through and using a bolt or studding for the rear lower shock mount to prevent this in the future, see the Wiki for details.
In theory this is a simple job. It's just rust that makes it harder.
Kirkynut
Cheers mate appreciate the informative post!
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