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Oh dear - what have I done? - time for a new clutch??

  • fowleronline
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14 Sep 2017 10:06 #184113 by fowleronline
First proper green lane yesterday and I lost the clutch two or three times. Got very hot and had to let it cool before I could continue.
After the downhill section, it was fine... but
Have I killed it or is it fatally wounded?
Car has 60K miles so probably original factory clutch.
Advice as always appreciated.
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14 Sep 2017 10:21 #184114 by mlines
You might have damaged the clutch or it might need adjusting.

I do have one other thing for you to consider. In off-road driving you should not really use the clutch or brake. Let the low gearing and engine braking do the work for you. It takes some confidence to take your feet off the pedals and let the car do the work, particularly on the Jimny where the lowest gear is still a little fast. Find a safe slope and practice going up and down without the clutch/brake.

Going down, creep it over the crest of the slope in 1st gear 4WD low and take both feet off the pedals. It will gain a fair bit of speed but it will descend on its own.

Going up do similar but clearly put some revs on. If it gets to the point where you want to slip the clutch then consider it as a "failed hill climb". Hold on brakes, select reverse and let the car take you back down as in the descent above keeping your foot off the brakes.

Very unnerving at first but lets the 4WD do what its supposed to.

Martin

Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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  • fowleronline
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14 Sep 2017 12:49 - 14 Sep 2017 12:50 #184118 by fowleronline
Thanks Martin, I think the mistake I made was not to put it in low box early on. When I did it was still a bit fast for some sections, but I did trust it where I could. Some of the rocks were pretty harsh, with the incline and my lack of experience I had to stop and assess a lot, requiring a lot of restarts.

On the clutch, there is a lot of travel before it bites, but it has not been a problem other than that. How will I know if there is more damage - will it repeat more readily ie in normal driving or only in similar conditions?

When the time does come to replace it - what is the best kit to use - I will probably not be modifying the car other than GB AT3s.

Cheers
Last edit: 14 Sep 2017 12:50 by fowleronline. Reason: spelling

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  • Riccy
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14 Sep 2017 17:24 #184126 by Riccy
When you come to replace it, buy an exedy kit (clutch, cover and bearing).
Thats the one i have and it handles the 1.6 engine, rocklobster and 29" tyres fine. the el-cheepo one from local parts supplier in previously lasted about 12 months :-(

Martin has a good point about using the 4wd to ascend/descend. Its one of the basics about offroading. I would tackle most of grizedale in lowbox and 3rd/4th gear. If its still too fast and causing damage, you want to think about gearing changes, which can be complex.

Its ok to put it in low box when starting a lane, even if that means you are using 5th gear at some points. Dont do that on tarmac tho as its not good for the transfer box. You can shift to/from 4x4 to 4x2 (high box) whilst on the move, just dip the clutch so its not under load. its surprising where you can get with just 2wd tho!

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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14 Sep 2017 21:46 #184141 by Busta
If the pedal is high you may get some more life out of it by fiddling with the plastic adjuster nut on the bellhousing under the car. More slack=lower biting point.

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  • fowleronline
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16 Sep 2017 07:04 #184169 by fowleronline
Again, thanks.
So I know when the time comes, I need an Exedy kit (form BigJumny of course), and a cable as I might as well.

From experience though, having cooked it until it doesn't work at all, how long can I expect it to last? - or is that one of those "how long is a piece of string" questions?

I won't be doing it myself, so if it's going to the garage or a thorough service and oils change, should I be getting it done, or wait until it goes?

Thanks again.

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  • Riccy
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21 Sep 2017 19:07 #184305 by Riccy
Piece of string question im afraid...

if your just on the road and gentle it will last ages. more serious offroading will kill it pretty quickly. I cooked the cheapo one on a puch hunt until it would hardly move. retired as soon as it gave up. drove home no problem after it cooled off. then lasted for 2 weeks happily on the road before i changed it all about.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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  • TomDK
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22 Sep 2017 23:01 #184361 by TomDK
Sounds odd. I've been on the same standard clutch for the last 4 years.. competing and such.

But a few days ago I did this, to make it a bit easier changing clutch.


Yes, I know. Welds looks a bit shitty :)
Took me about an hour to do. And the clutch change took under 2 hours to do :)
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  • 1066Boy
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23 Sep 2017 07:39 #184368 by 1066Boy
A lot depends on driving style, mine still on standard clutch without problems. :)

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23 Sep 2017 11:21 #184373 by Busta
Mine get plenty of abuse off-road and towing and I've not had any issues with the standard clutch. It doesn't like being slipped under heavy loads, but that's why the car has low range. Using a low gear and high revs works better than lugging around at tickover as if it's a diesel.

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