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King pin shims

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04 Sep 2015 12:43 #151298 by Sheepish
King pin shims was created by Sheepish
Got an 09 plate with factory alloys.
Got the swivels apart to replace king pin bearings. I picked out a copper washer on the inside top of the swivel when I dismantled. This is fractionally too big to be fitted from the outside. I also had another, smaller, non-copper washer drop out although I didn't see from where.

Am I correct in thinking both annealed copper, and the shim type washers sold on the site can be fitted just by pulling the king pins out? No need to have the swivel apart? In which case I'm thinking of just getting it back together shimless and retro-fitting those if needed. Does that sound sensible?

The write up in the shop for the copper washers confuses me slightly. It describes fitting them on the inside when the bearings are changed, and then goes on to talk about fitting two washers with, I think, just top king pin out.

Thanks for any comments.

Rob

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04 Sep 2015 13:50 #151305 by kirkynut
Replied by kirkynut on topic King pin shims
Yes, you just pop the shim on the kingpin and bolt it back. You can just whip a kingpin out with the whole knuckle as one but you have to hold the weight of the knuckle and it gets heavy. You wouldn't want to let it hang on the other kingpin.

I think I've done it in the past.

I have tried both shims and annealed copper washers. The annealed copper washers get crushed and accurately fill any slack so are a once only use. The shims obviously have to be fitted and removed by trial and error to be sure they are not too tight.

Essentially it is as simple as you think by sliding a washer or shim onto the kingpin though.

Copper washers need to be annealed though. Otherwise they are a solid shim.

Kirkynut

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04 Sep 2015 15:53 #151314 by Rhinoman
Replied by Rhinoman on topic King pin shims

Sheepish wrote: I'm thinking of just getting it back together shimless and retro-fitting those if needed. Does that sound sensible?
Rob


That's the method described in the Suzuki Technical Service Bulletin. Only add shims if required, increasing the thickness until it stops wobbling or the preload exceeds the recommended value (which I've forgotten!)

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30 Aug 2020 14:24 #227549 by Cvejic
Replied by Cvejic on topic King pin shims
can anyone tell me the dimensions of the washers?

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30 Aug 2020 15:12 #227550 by Scimike
Replied by Scimike on topic King pin shims
When I rebuilt my swivels both sides did not have any packing washers, copper or steel, I believe this is how it left the factory.
Even though I had a pack of steel shims from the Big Jimny shop when I assembled with new Koyo bearings, again both sides did not require any fitting to achieve the correct swivel load. After assembly I have no wobble and this is a factory spec 09 on standard tyres / wheels.

You only need to fit them if you can't achieve the correct swivel load with the new bearings alone.

Sorry don't know this size.

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30 Aug 2020 15:40 #227551 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic King pin shims
Correct. As long as the preload is in the area of 3.5 kg pull constant with a spring balance on the ball joint hole for the steering drag link with or without shims then you are good to go.

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30 Aug 2020 15:48 #227555 by Cvejic
Replied by Cvejic on topic King pin shims
if I understood correctly, as long as the force is greater than 3.5kg it is not necessary to put shims? or after inserting the shims the force must not exceed 3.5kg?

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30 Aug 2020 16:00 #227559 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic King pin shims
It doesn't want to be much below as it will most likely wobble. Much more than 3.5kg and the steering can be heavy and the bearings will wear even quicker.

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11 Sep 2020 16:41 #228089 by Cvejic
Replied by Cvejic on topic King pin shims
hello, I have another question, whether the shims are placed on the lower bearing or only on the upper. i watched clips on which they put shims only above. Thanks in advance for your reply.

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11 Sep 2020 18:19 #228091 by Scimike
Replied by Scimike on topic King pin shims
Top or bottom will achieve the same result. The reality is it's just easier to put them at the top as gravity is not involved when you reassemble.
If I was fitting more than one I personally would split them top / bottom just to keep things central, but again this may be my OCD rather than a practical requirement as we are (should be) talking small shim thickness.
Mike

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