Body lift Jimmy 04 1.3 help

Scot The Sniper wrote: Ok back again just got my shocks threw so gonna fit the rear springs and shocks. I have 2 questions

1. On trolling threw the facebook jimny groups i noticed someone doing a 2" lift and asking if he should put the rubber cones back in on top of the lift kit when i took my plastic 1.5 inch lift spacers out of my spring i did not have any rubber cones to put back in will i need these please.

2 will i need to buy castor correction bushes for the front radious arms

Thx in advance

1. Yes - the spring seats are there to stop metal on metal contact, i.e. the spring in the chassis cup, so there should be a rubber "cone" on the top of each spring, or rather in the chassis cup...

2. As per Lambert's reply... it all depends on the actual lift you get from the advertised 2" lift kit... some need castor correction, some dont... the trailmaster kit for instance, I feel is a conservative 2" lift Many people report more than a 2" lift, as when you fit a lift kit you are replacing an old tired sagged spring with a new heavier duty one... As Lambert says, best way is to fit the springs and take it out for a drive, see how it feels to you... if it wanders lane to lane, feels vague, or wobbles... you'll decide you may need castor correction (offset bushes or new arms)...

I'm pretty sure he's asking about the 8 body mounting rubbers ??
These fit between body and chassis YES you will need them in

But i could be miss understanding

Sorry guys my fault it the rubber cone that goes above the front and rear springs. So im not testing the springs on the bare metal i think there probably for to stop the spring making a noise my suspention had previously not be raised but it had 1.5 spacers put in and the last owner must of took out the rubbrr cones and threw them away hope that makes more sense. So not that i jave replaced the normal springs with 3" springs i have to the spacers out as i did not want 3" springs on there plus the 1.5 spacers that would of took the suspention to 4.5 inches

Lambert probably is the bump stops now that u mention it

Ok need more help please.
Ok fitted the 4 3" springs 4x 3" shocks took out for a test drive pulling badly to the right you need to keep hold of the steering any ideas please guys

Steering bars are too long or need adjusted (if adjustable) im afraid.

A wheel alignment/tracking at a garage is always needed after altering this sort of stuff. Problem is finding one that will work on a modified car usually

Panhard rods are probably out as well (or have you covered that already?) If adjustable you need to set them so that the axle is central to the chassis. Measure off the chassis to the tyre and get it in the middle before worrying about the steering bars.

If you do take it to a garage for an alignment/tracking the steering 'toe-in' should be set at 2 degrees inwards (for a standard car, maybe less for huge tyres). The only other thing they can adjust is the panhards (if adjustable), but thats more for centering the axle to the car properly, but it does have an affect on the steering position so needs set before the steering bars

Im losing the will to live with this jimny all cause i noticed a broken spring all it had was a 3" body lift too
So now i need to buy adjustable panhard rods

Sorry about this but 4th picture page 2 appears to show heavily corroded brake pipes in the background.

Roger

Sorry , meant to say 3rd picture.

Roger

Roger Fairclough wrote: Sorry , meant to say 3rd picture.

Roger

Hi roger thx for this info i had spotted these before and on actual fact there the vacuum pipes for the 4x4 and thete in had im gonna use brake pipe to fix them but thanks for the info