BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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GEN 4 Jimny undersealing wearing off
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I did mine with 4941, next year I'll jetwash under the wheelarches and do it again.
I was initially disappointed with the kit, which was 1000 for inside the cavities and 4941 for outside- the kit I bought 10 years ago for the Gen 3 had cavity wax, black wax and a stonechip type paint for the wheelarches.
However, everybody and his dog recommend Dinitrol, so I assumed they know what is best, and the Gen 3 got to 19 without any chassis corrosion, or needing welding on the shell.
If you read the data sheet for 4941, it doesn't harm any existing surface finish, which makes me think it doesn't actually bond to the surface.
I never jetwash under my cars, just use the hosepipe.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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It's like it was sprayed with a rattle can paint, which I'm sure it wasn't.
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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- Andy2640
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Soeley wrote: All that sounds good then. I paid £650 +VAT.
Had mine 3 days.
1st to power wash and steam clean, then dry over night
2nd to apply first thin clear coat wax
3rd to apply outer harder wearing black wax
As per recommended on the Dinatrol website.
It's step 1 I have the most problem with when firms apply wax. When I have done my own it takes a minimum of 7 days (UK temperatures) in my opinion for a cleaned underside to be totally free from water. Not just talking about the surface, I want all the box sections and seams to be totally dry before the wax is applied. That's why I do my own, nothing to do with cost.
Did your vehicle have any silicon "shine for life" dealer paint treatments that could explain the wax peeling as it has? Very odd, never seen that before, it's usually a pain to remove.
Mike
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
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- Points: 308.00
Having said that, if it were normal for these Gen 4 Jimnys to have that finish then such issues would be more prevalent?
Micheal
PS in answer to another enquiry, no it was not done in Rugby.
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Looks good (can't see how to add photos). However the shop advised against using pressure washer hose to clean mud off the underside. They did the work for free and without any quibble. Preserve and Protect, Johnstone, Paisley. They have a good reputation.
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Hope it stays on and thanks for update.
Mike
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
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- Posts: 68
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- Posts: 2105
- Thank you received: 551
- Points: 12702.00
Underseal is a generic term for a rubberised paint that is applied to potential impact areas to provide some level protection from stones etc. Suzuki have made an art of only applying underseal to the absolute minimum of areas that could be subject to this type of damage, it's a way of saving cost. So on all Jimnys it's normal to see the underseal in patches, other areas will just be painted steel, so it's not actually coming off as it was never there in the first place.
The Jimny's tend to rust first on chassis welds and internal box sections, this you can see easily as they are usually just painted areas. Rust can form under the Underseal but it's difficult to see as the flexibility of the covering prevents it showing.
So what can you do?
One method is to get the underside of the vehicle treated with a wax formula. This product never fully sets and has good creep properties when applied to get between metal components. It can also be injected into box sections to prevent rust developing, a common practice in premium vehicles, but sadly not by Suzuki. As the wax will never fully dry it will need a top up every few years, particularly in high splash areas.
Geezerdan
I firmly believe that if you intend to keep your Jimny it's well worth the cost and effort of getting the underside treated with a WAX product, be it DIY or a professional as per Micheal.
NEVER get your vehicle sprayed with underseal, it's a good way to hide rot and trap rust, as Micheal said it's common on rotten Land Rovers etc.
So WAX = yes
Undersealed = no
You do have the body warranty issues at the dealer's, but they tend not to do anything on the underside, usually it needs to be a hole before it's a warranty claim. You are not treating the paint work above so it's going to be hard for them to claim it's had an impact on the bodywork.
Of course this is just my opinion and only wishing to highlight the difference.
All the best
Mike
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
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- nogbad
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- does not dry out after 3+ years
- is somewhat weaker against mechanical damage
- stays soft and on the next warm day the fat will get softer and re-cover areas with mechanical damage
- whenever you work at your Jimny, the fingers get fatty (ughh!)
- cannot easily be done by yourself because you need to spray hot liquefied fat.
I had fated my Jimny and so far I can recommend it. Definitely in areas without mechanical damage, e.g., inside the frame, .... . The product I used was Mike Sanders, 8kg of it.
The picture shows, what the jimny looked like directly after. The yellow color means that the there is air from hot spraying inside the fat. After a month, this was all glossy, fatty as can be seen in the second picture.
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