Under sealing

Hi all after a bit of advice this spring or summer want to get undersealing done. Don’t know if I should do it myself or pay to get it done. We have a compressor but not sure how easy it would be to do or what bits you should not underseal I live near Canterbury Kent anyone know any one around that area that does it had a look there a few but wondered if anyone used any of them.many thanks dawn

kirkynut wrote: Look up a company called 'Before and After'. I think they have a few places around the country. Cost it up and look at posts on here and other Forums with a Google search and then cost up doing it yourself.

It's a horrible job though!

Kirkynut

I wouldn't use that company IMO. Just my opinion. Just google them: Terrible feedback from multiple forums. I was tipped off by a fellow forum member. I had a friend use them and it went ok, but it pales into oblivion when looking at customer feedback.

Weird timing, I have only just posted about them! In fact that's really surreal.

It's not a hard job to do but as Kirknut said it is a messy job.
It helps if you can get the Jimny higher in the air, ramps under all wheels or similar gives enough room.
As you have a compressor the other bits are available from Machine Mart or similar places.
Gun and stone chip, but you can pay less / more, just an example:-

www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cub3-under-body-seal-gun/
www.machinemart.co.uk/p/gravitex-plus-hs-stone-chip-protector/

You can spray it on anything but in general avoid things that move, rotate or get hot.

Having said that I am not a fan of just spraying underseal to cover up rust. A better option (just my opinion) is to spray black (not clear) Waxoyl after treating any rust with a rust converter. Underseal or stone chip is only good in stone chip areas IMHO. For inner box sectionos etc use Dinatrol cans with the application Lance, expensive but better than Waxoyl in these areas.

Would I pay to have it done?

No, it's expensive and the time constraints of professional firms can lead to "chuck it on, cover it up and give it back asap" application methods.
It's time consuming and messy, but if you do it yourself you know it's done correctly.

Ps The same machine mart gun with empty underseal can (used as a reservoir) can be used to spray neat Waxoyl.

PPS What ever you apply the vehicle needs to be 100% dry and free from mud etc. It may require a few sunny days after a good jet wash underneath to dry it out. Another reason not to use firms, how do they dry it before application as they only want the vehicle for a day ??

^^^^Did not know that, but it explains why I have seen underseal cause (or hide) more problems than it cures.

These are the anti rust treatments applied to our 2009. Not saying it's the best as everyone will have their own methods, but it gives you an idea of the work involved:-

1) Any visible rust attacked with a wire brush / power file to remove loose or old underseal in area.
2) Rust then treated with Hamerite Rust Treatment (back to black type).
3) Treated areas overpainted with RPC rust encapsulation primer.
4) If underseal removed in step 1 underseal re-applied to area.
5) If part originally black RCP over painted with black enamel (only applies to axles and anti-roll bar).
6) Complete underside of vehicle sprayed with Black Waxoyl.
7) Any box sections etc treated with Dinatrol cavity wax, I used 4 cans.

It took 3 days to complete last year and I was lucky enough to have a few weeks warm and sunny weather to get it all dry.
I removed the front and rear bumpers plus any underbody plastic trim to allow better access to hidden body parts.
This will give you your first views of the front (under headlamp) body mounting points. These are rot spots and mine had started to go, one side required a welded repair. I was shocked at how poor Suzuki's anti rust prevention is, so very happy I spent the time on ours before it gets any worse.

We are assuming rust prevention is your goal?

Mike

Look at buzzweld.co.uk
They have companies dotted around not the cheapest but probably the best

Hi all thank you yes was thinking of buzzweld

PCM in Cheltenham seem to get good feedback in various quarters like mini forums etc. Not used them myself though.

A while ago I wrote a dedicated wiki article on the topic of underbody rust remedy and prevention, to the best of my current knowledge.

One thing about this topic is certain - there are dozen wrong ways to do it and only a couple of correct ways. The other certain thing is that some methods which appear quite OK can actually make the situation even worse in the long term.

I hope that it contributes to the awareness of this.

Hi thank you will have a read

My tuppence worth - Every time I see underseal on a vehicle I wonder "What 'cowboy' applied it and what is hiding underneath the coated surface"?

It's topic that folk can become quite emotive over and if done correctly (thorough surface preparation and application) can be an asset. On the other hand I have personally seen it used to cover a multitude of defects and seduce a buyer into thinking they are purchasing a sound vehicle with a long lifespan - when in reality the vehicle is fit for the crusher.


I've done a few DIY applications in the height of a sunny summer - rather messy, not technically difficult and I knew it was a thorough job (because I did it). Cleaned the underside thoroughly (including equally thoroughly drying off/out over a couple of very hot days) and sprayed with old fashioned Waxoyl - including flooding box sections on the chassis and avoiding exhaust system and brakes. After 18 - 24 months I 'topped up' a few areas where needed and after that it was just an occasional squirt where tall vegetation or debris had made contact with the chassis legs.