BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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oily leak from front nearside - advice requested
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- Thank you received: 6
- Points: 311.00
In terms of front axle oil, mine will be the G13BB Engine UK so I assume it's the wiki mention of differential Oil (front) 1.35 litres API GL-5 80W - 90
Paul
1999 T registered Jimny. Early G13BB SOHC engine.
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- Tom1357
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Buy two one litre bottles then when you fill just fill until it starts to dribble out, then pop the fill plug back in.
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- Posts: 86
- Thank you received: 6
- Points: 311.00
Advice appreciated.
Paul
1999 T registered Jimny. Early G13BB SOHC engine.
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- leftcase
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Paul4A wrote: The local garage doing this job for me has sent me two photographs today to highlight their concerns at corrosion. Not knowing anything about Jimny's it looks quite bad to me but do I need to get a new part immediately or is it a non critical issue.
Advice appreciated.
Paul
That looks pretty normal. Rusty swivels on a Jimny are not a problem and you won't improve anything by replacing the axle housing because they were never designed to be water tight, even when new. If you're desperate to 'fix' it I'd suggest filling it with some epoxy type stuff and sanding it smooth is a much more economical 'repair'.
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- slippy
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was just about to post for advice about a leak from the front nearside when I found this topic.
After wiping away the sludge, gunk and grime I found the same problem.
Do I need an extensive tool kit to perform the repair and how long would you estimate a job like this would take for one person (non mechanic) on the driveway without ramps?
These are the two pics of the problem which look identical to those already posted.
Any additional advice is most welcomed.
Slippy.
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- Daniel30
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- tuppiesfriend
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Worn/distorted oil seal in end of axle case, the oil in Jimny's is limited to the axle casing unlike Land Rovers that have oil in the hubs, Jimny's hubs should be dry. The problem is apparently caused by worn king pin bearings allowing the axle to move about in the seal and distort/wear it, this is usually accompanied by wheel wobble. I have just completed this repair, it took just over 4 hours, but quite a bit of pre freeing of bolts etch. I have only owned my Jimny for 4 months, and learned all this already! Watch the vidoe "replace king pin bearings on the forum" fantastic help!
tuppies friend
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- slippy
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Have watched the video and now feel that it is within my capabilities - we shall see.
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- tuppiesfriend
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Just a couple of points to add, when doing the king pins, ABS sensor is very delicate, plenty of WD40 and lever it gently and EVENLY from the back, bolt sheered on mine, once the knuckle is off, the bolt can be drilled out (it's only mild steel) then use a stainless nut, bolt and spring washer to secure. The ABS sensor cylinder has a bulge on one side this should correspond with the cut out in the steel clip, all will be apparent on that once it's extracted.
I found it best to use the back of the 1" socket to drive out the bearing shells, mine at least are slightly rounded at the front(business end). but square at the back.
I found quite a bit of rust on the swivel "ball" I rubbed this off with 240 grit wet and dry, then applied a rust killer. Rust left on the ball will just wear the seal again.
Let out some but not necessarily all the oil from the diff before you begin, so you will need new oil to top up.
The circlip, is a nuisance, it has two different sized holes, I had to adapt my pliers to fit.
I did't want to put the circlip back before a test for free turning of the knuckle, but then the shaft can move in and out, causing "locking" as the "CV" isn't in line with the king pins, so when you test, either put the circlip back, make a temporary circlip (piece of steel with a slot) or just make sure the shaft is in the right place when you do the check. don't forget to put back the weird shaped washer before replacing the circlip.
Holding the bottom bearing in place is tricky, stick it in with plenty of the sticky waterproof grease, this gives you about 30 secs before it falls out, make sure you have some clean news paper under it, for the couple of time it does fall out, or you will have grit in it.
I took Martin Lines advise and bought the shim set, and just added the thinnest shim to the top bearing, seems to work fine.
tuppiesfriend
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- slippy
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I suppose I will only find out whether it needs replacing after I have dismantled everything or should I just replace it anyway?
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- tuppiesfriend
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If you mean the axle case oil seal, I would replace it anyway, you are 95% there when you do the king pins, it's not expensive, and it's easy to get out, and fit the new one, I levered the old one out with a large screw driver, with access through one of the king pin holes. If you mean the swivel seal, definitely replace it, it's supposed to be a service item, I don't think mine had ever been changed, and the least bit of rust will have ruined it, allowing water in, and consequently rusting the king pin bearings.
tuppies friend
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