Turbo M16A Jimny

Im looking forwards to seeing updates on this  

I have an M18vvt running ITBs, which entailed swapping the ECU. I used a DTAfast S80, which was the most basic one in the range that supported what I wanted. I could have got away with a S60 if I didnt want to run twin injectors, but felt that was needed as the single set were running at 90% duty cycle to feed the bugger!

Few things that may help:

Jimny sensor wiring is best replaced with decent shielded seperate wiring if possible. Mainly the crank, cam and tps. For some reason it gets lots of noise on the oscilloscope and struggles to give a clean signal to the ecu, especially with the crank (maybe because its right next to the alternator?). I had endless problems with crank sensor and before replacing its wiring. 

I dont run a knock sensor. The mapping is conservative for a M series engine that will happily rev to 8k and the map is on the rich side to compensate a bit apparently. 

I also dont run o2 sensors. The last MOT it failed on emissions spectacularly, but that was because I had altered the sensor scaling for the temp sensor and it was running thinking it was -20c. Flipped it back and all was well. 

Unplug the coil packs before trying to fire up the new ecu for the first time. Some ecu default mappings burn out the coils on startup (been there, done that   ).

VVT is selectable with my ecu at whatever rev range is desired (basic on/off relay settings). Ive set it to 4200 because thats just above the revs at my motorway cruising speed (for economy on motorway). 

Buy some spare relays. Universal 12v relays are handy. I needed to use 2 to get the A/C working with unexpected bonus below...

The only thing that doesnt work as a result of the mods now is the dash temp reading. Couldnt get the ecu output to work it for some reason. However in the ecu software I have the A/C fan set to come on as a warning that its getting hot and to cool the rad a bit. It also works for A/C with the second relay to control the compressor 

All of this was just to get it to run properly for the dyno. The ECU software has a handy interface that works on a windows tablet and gives various info including fault logging (very handy). Made 130hp/130torque (127/128 with the snorkel attached) on the dyno so not bad for naturaly aspirated and 31" tyres 

 

Thank you this is invaluable information. Will definitely get these sensors wiring shielded.

Looks like temperature gauge on dash should have a direct wiring from coolant sensor to the combination meter? Instead of a output from the ECU?

Combination meter showing it should go directly to sensor

Been comparing the picture the fabricator took of the turbo installed and the picture I took of the intercooler installed and the 90 degree silicone hose coming towards it. They are lining up suspiciously well! 

Coolant reserve tank will have to be relocated and the fabricator also advised I should move the power steering pump reserve and hose that goes to it.

With a bit of tweaking the angles of the intercooler bends and abit of straight section cut to size they should meet up. Lucky as it’s always a gamble when you order stuff before you can physically measure it all

wrote:

Combination meter showing it should go directly to sensor

That might be a different wiring diagram. I have a PDF print out of the one for my 2006 vvt ecu with the 4 connectors on it I can email you (its too large to attach to a forum post). Around page 5/6 it shows the ECT sensor going into the ecu (and that is what I am using on my DTAfast to get the temp reading, but was unable to configure the dash output from the ecu into the new DTA for some reason). Have you had a look to see which ecu you have (3 or 4 connector models) and different ones for vvt and non vvt. The manuals for the vvt are only avaliable through a suzuki online portal (Martin has access). I have other PDFs of the 4x4 system, aircon, etc if you need them. They are all liked to the standard ecu.

good point, mine is 2002 hardcopy manual. I may be interpreting the manual incorrectly but on mine it looks like there are two wires coming out the Coolant sensor, one going to ECU and one going to the combination meter circuitry that displays the dial.

Out of interest, when you put the throttle bodies on, what did you do with the breathers from the idle control valve that you removed and what did you do with the EVAP tank? Just blocked it from where it enters the engine bay and let is vent from the fuel cap of it builds up pressure?

The throttle bodies i bought had vac ports on them, one large one for the brake booster and a small one per cylinder (linked together) for the fuel rail return. The other vac lines are to do with vac hubs, which I dont have any more, so removed them.

Link to the throttle bodies I have: danstengineering.co.uk/Bike-Throttle-Bod...XR-38mm-STARTER-PACK


The evap canister is still there, but I just connected the vac port to a breather line up and into the snorkel (so its atmosphere now). I dont know if it does much anyway. The tank filler still makes the standard wooshing air sound when opening, which makes me wonder if it is vented through the filler or not.

I did change the fuel pump to a genuine Walbro one for higher pressure to the twin injectors. Pretty easy fit into the standard pump mounting place (once you get to it that is - tank has to drop out unless its a trayback).

 

 

Oh and the rocker cover vent and PCR valve are linked into a catch can. I removed the spring and ball from the PCR valve so its just another breather really.

EGR valve is gone and blanked off

I was looking at the idle control valve and it looks like there’s two vacuum lines going into the block from it Did you notice them when you removed the ICV?