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Tesla Jimny made in UK

13 Jul 2021 19:27 #236671 by Roger Fairclough
Hi Danny.

I'm no electrical engineer so much of what you are doing is leaving me with a sort of "durr" look on my face, so it's with a degree of trepidation that I ask, do you need a clutch? After all, an electric motor develops max. torque at zero rpm, so direct drive would appear to me to be the ay to go.

Or have I really shown my ignorance.


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14 Jul 2021 17:07 #236685 by Scimike
Replied by Scimike on topic Tesla Jimny made in UK
Hi Roger,
Not stealing Danny's moment, but just in case he's not back for a bit.
No you don't need a clutch, but if you want one you can have one, that's my understanding. You are better off without a gearbox or clutch, simply are the torque from an electric motor could kill a conventional gear box. A lot of this is down to how the electric motor is controlled. You can digitally "tune" them to provide a similar delivery characteristic as the petrol it replaces if wanted. But at the moment it's all about showing how good they are, so they tend to be maxed out to fly the flag for electric. At some point the powers that be will step in to limit performance, in particular acceleration.
Just a personal prediction after they are common place and mostly in a ditch at the side of the road.

Yokohama Geolanders, Sony 2D head unit, Elvis Bobblehead, Jimnybits transfer Guard, Hand crafted Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Voodoo Doll with pins (active spell - I believe it's working), Jimnybits Adventure Rack, towbar, Light bar and vintage caravan.

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16 Jul 2021 10:43 #236730 by Dannyzook
Replied by Dannyzook on topic Tesla Jimny made in UK
Hi Roger.

Not a problem like i say ask me anything, its all about sharing the info!
While electric motors produce alot of torque and most of it from low rpm they still have a power curve and as such you need to match this to gears. Yes you can do a clutch delete and use the gearbox syncro’s and allowing the motor to freewheel while you change gear, many do go this option however to protect the gearbox syncros and to make it an easier conversion (adapter to the flywheel) i went for the clutch option, this also means the clutch may help take out some of the damage caused by backlash in the gearbox and gearbox splines if i used a solid coupler as the regen on the motor (regen being motor putting charge back into the battery by acting like a generator, and as you can imagine accelerating to letting off causing the vehicle to constantly be changing forces from accelerating to decelerating in the gearbox much more than a petrol engine will do from engine braking) think of the clutch like a dampener and fuse in this situation.

Another thing to think about is the gearbox is essentially a torque multiplier at the sacrifice of rpm. I matched my motor to the torque of the 1.3 engine, not the gearbox output which i would have to do in the event of a gearbox delete and direct to the tcase/diff.
Ie a 100nm engine through a 4:1 gearbox is 400nm but this also has the advantage of being abke to change ratio when a higher rpm is required. A gearbox delete would require a motor that can produce said 400nm (i think i worked it out id need about 550nm from memory) but also turn at 4000rpm. Most electric motors are of lower torque but higher rpm but this depends on design. Alot of old conversions used forklift motors in direct drive configuration as they had biigg torque specs but a rpm limit of around 3-4k meaning they was ideal but they lacked regen (engine braking) and less efficient than the more commonly used ac induction motors.

Like i say any questions please ask, no such thing as stupid questions!


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