Our new addition! Finally joined properly...

Hi all,

Been a member for a few weeks now, and definately got the bug! My wife was after a new car to replace the 2001 Clio we had, and she decided she liked the look of a Suzuki Jimny. I already have a 1971 Land Rover Series III with a v8 (hence the username and pic) but that is a bit inappropriate for my wife.

Had a good look before and after Xmas and amazed how much prices fluctuated. But kept looking and think I have managed to find a bargain...Jimny 1999 V reg in Red with 94k miles on the clock.

It is just registered in 1999, 24th December to be exact, by the garage to boost sales figures. Was actually sold to the first owner on 4th January who was a police officer I believe in Poole, Dorset and kept it all the way through to end of August 2009 when it had 88k on the clock, and absolutely fully service history to boot! It was then sold to the second owner, a lady in her sixties who just about managed to clock up the remaining 6k in the last 18months pootling about.

So that makes me the proud third owner of an immaculate (with the exception of a ripped drivers seat) Jimny, which we just collected at the weekend from Bournemouth and drove the 270miles back no problems at all! In fact the oil was still clear when I picked the car up, and only just starting to show a bit of discolouration after the run!

A few questions though!

The gear ratios seem a touch unusual. 1st to 2nd seems to be a big drop, causing the car to vibrate badly unless you rev the engine to over 3000rpm so the revs stay above 2000rpm once in second gear - normal? If so, how to I stop the body vibrations, new body mounts?

Also the drop from 4th to 5th is tiny, and it seems like the engine could easily handle a higher drop, any modifications to help this?

The car only did 30mpg all the way back, I have heard this is about normal, and it was revving just over 4000rpm doing 70mph which is very high. I am looking at doing an LPG conversion, anyone any ideas where I could hide the tank (except the extremely large boot of course!)

The steering swivles on the ends of the front axle appear to be very crusty and rusty, and nothing like the shiney chrome ones on my Landy, is this correct, or do they need replacing?

Finally, it has just had a service, but I think it needs the cambelt doing, and the auxhillary belts are slipping so doing them too. Assume it is standard to do the water pump at the same time, anything else? And I am a bit confused about the diff oils, I have read that they need changing every 9000miles, but in the hand book I am fairly sure that it says you only need to inspect the level, and NEVER replace, is that correct? And what about the gearbox oils?

Sorry for all the questions, here are a couple of piccies to keep you going. I will hopefully take some more when I get the chance.

Cheers all

Phil

v8dougie wrote: The gear ratios seem a touch unusual. 1st to 2nd seems to be a big drop, causing the car to vibrate badly unless you rev the engine to over 3000rpm so the revs stay above 2000rpm once in second gear - normal? If so, how to I stop the body vibrations, new body mounts?

The gearing on a Jimny is not good. If you are getting too much vibration then it would be worth checking the gearbox and transfer box mounts for damage. It may also be a sign that the clutch is on its way out.

v8dougie wrote: The car only did 30mpg all the way back, I have heard this is about normal, and it was revving just over 4000rpm doing 70mph which is very high. I am looking at doing an LPG conversion, anyone any ideas where I could hide the tank (except the extremely large boot of course!)

That MPG sounds about right. I think someone on here does have an LPG one.

v8dougie wrote: The steering swivles on the ends of the front axle appear to be very crusty and rusty, and nothing like the shiney chrome ones on my Landy, is this correct, or do they need replacing?

Aaah! a Land Rover man. Landrover men like their balls all smart and shiny, us Suzuki owners prefer them dirty and caked in mud. The truth is that although they look similar the design is different. I understand that Landrover Swivels are oil filled. Therefore the seal has to keep the oil in so it has a smooth chromed surface to seal against. Suzuki Swivels are "dry" (well they have grease in the CV) and therefore the seal and swivel have only to keep dirt out. Therefore the balls are simply painted. If they are not to your liking then give them a sand down and a lick of paint. You cannot change them anyway as they are integral to the axle. You sometimes get "Landrover Savvy" MOT men fail them because the surface is not "shiny", just explain to them how us Suzuki guys do it.

v8dougie wrote: Finally, it has just had a service, but I think it needs the cambelt doing, and the auxhillary belts are slipping so doing them too. Assume it is standard to do the water pump at the same time, anything else? And I am a bit confused about the diff oils, I have read that they need changing every 9000miles, but in the hand book I am fairly sure that it says you only need to inspect the level, and NEVER replace, is that correct? And what about the gearbox oils?

Diff oils inspect and top up every 6000 miles, replace every 24,000 miles or 2 years.

CAM belt replace every 60,000 miles. If you are changing the belt and tensioner then it would make sense to change the water pump.

Thanks for the super speedy and very informative response.

The vibration is literally only in second gear only when under 2000rpm, but the actual gear is fine. I will check the mountings, do not think it is the clutch, although no record of it being changed! Do I take it then that there is nothing I can do about the ratios, more specifically the 5th gear one. Can I stick a higher ratio final drive in, or is it not that simple? The rest of the gears seem okay, so would seem a risky option to change the high ratio drive in the transfer box, if that is even possible?

Your explanation of my want for shiney chrome balls, as it were, makes perfect sense, and also answers my questions of where you top up the oil in the swivle and how the hell you would change them as they seem connected to the axle! Thanks for clearing all of that up!

However you have now confused me even more with more figures for the diffs! Where do you get your info from? The drain/fill bolts look totally untouched, so I will be doing that asap.

As for the cambelt, it was last done at 45k miles in 2005 I think, so is there a time limit as well as mileage limit?

Cheers

From the workshop manual.....(I misread the diff oil column - should be 30,000 miles)

PS.

I can do the Water Pump for £40, a branded Cam belt for £40, an unbranded belt for £30.

A Belt and Tensioner Kit comes in at £75 which seems on the expensive side to me

Martin

v8dougie wrote: The vibration is literally only in second gear only when under 2000rpm, but the actual gear is fine.

Mine vibrated and rattled the same..... removed the rear silencer heat shield as it was on its last legs and the rattling stopped..... however still vibrates.
I believe ( but havnt had chance to confirm yet ) that the rattle is actually the exhaust bashing against the body right at the rear silencer ( looked like it did but didnt have chance to check 100% yet )
Check your exhaust mounts and how much play there is at the back

Cheers, sounds a lot more than just that, but you never know, it is a bit rusty the back box. Think the gearbox mounts might be a possibility as well like Martin said. I shall keep you informed.

Phil

Thanks for that. Excuse my ignorance, but assume you sell parts? Have you a website or shop or something? I would be after belt, tensioner and the two aux belts as well.

Also, have double checked (but not had time to scan) and unless I am having a special moment, the service interval for my car, late sohc, is every 9000 miles. Does that mean the interval got shorter for newer cars? Seems a bit odd to me! And do you know if there is a time constraint on the cam belt, as advised by the manufacturer?

Cheers

Do I have a webshop??

Look upwards and see the "BigJimny Shop" weblink.

Not all parts are listed as service items tend to be on request (Reg. Number helps)

I can do the belt and tensioner, I will have a look and see if I can find them cheaper as I feel my current source is on the expensive side for these

The AUX belts are more difficult. Most people find the off the shelf ones do not fit and they start going down the route of taking the old belts into the shop and comparing lengths. I can get them but just a heads up on stories I have heard.

Martin

I priced a timing belt/tensioner kit on ebay.... £50 if I remember right.....have a check

Hi Dougie,

Well done for getting a Red one, Best colour by Far, ...........notice you've got a towbar just take a look at the right hand side of the backbox and see If it's almost touching the towbar side plates.

Mine did when I had one fitted, I just cut a walking stick ferrell down and put it over a nut, your towbar might be different to the one i had fitted,

Just lie down on your back and move backbox from side to side to see if it can knock it, watch your eyes dont get crap in them;)

Andy

andyw wrote: just take a look at the right hand side of the backbox and see If it's almost touching the towbar side plates.

Just lie down on your back and move backbox from side to side to see if it can knock it, watch your eyes dont get crap in them;)

Andy

Mine touches without a towbar lol..... and VERY good advise about the eyes.... I got crap in mine last time I looked