3" lift kit

Prop spacers are only needed if you are using 4.5'' correction arms, I think 3'' is ok without.

I find fitting the poly bushes easy with a vice and rubber mallet. The grease also helps them slip in.

supergaz wrote: Prop spacers are only needed if you are using 4.5'' correction arms, I think 3'' is ok without.

I find fitting the poly bushes easy with a vice and rubber mallet. The grease also helps them slip in.

Yeah supergaz is right, no need for a prop spacer with a 3" lift

renard38 wrote: i destroyed my excentric bushes in 4 month only, when i was offroading:

www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/jimny/jimny-cas...n-bushes/prod_4.html

you better bought corrected radius arms:

www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/jimny/jimny-cas...s-arms/prod_442.html

A+

If you had fitted the blue superpro ones they wouldn't have worn out. I do a lot of offroading and I"ve had them on for over a year.

do you notice a reduction in flex with the poly type bush?

I have spend a considerable amount of time researching this. I currently need to renew my springs and shocks as the spring shave gone soft and saggy and although the shocks appear to be performing as they should, they appear to have seen better days cosmetically, so I may aswell do the lot!

Here are the findings of the research I have done in the 3-4 years I have owned my Jimjam.

A 2" lift does not necessarily need castor correction and if you feel it does, the castor correction bushes will suffice.

A 3" lift or higher needs castor correction by way of arms - bushes do not cut the mustard! I have a KAP old 3" lift kit with no castor correction and although I feel the effects of it not having it feel I can cope OK without BUT as I say, I think my springs have sagged so I have possibly 1.5-2" of lift realistically now, hence I can cope OK.

A 3" lift wothout castor corrected arms does not NEED a prop spacer but it might be advisable to keep enough length of spline in the prop. I don't have one and have had no issues.

A 3"+ lift with castor corrected arms DOES need a prop spacer - as advocated by the ORA and Jimny Bits in the use of their Castor Corrected Arms as the front prop will foul on things otherwise.

A 3"+ lift without rear castor corrected arms means you will have to find a way of straightening out the route of the rear shocks. The reason is the shocks will rub on the bent springs and or the panhard rod / crossmember. Bigjimny rear shock mounts help with this, as do washers to space them out.

A 3"+ lift with rear castor corrected arms solves all of the last.

Any lift needs extended brake hoses if you are using longer shocks.

Any 3" lift will need adjustable panhard rods.

I have been getting by with just 3" spings and shocks with extended brake hoses and adjustable panhard rods until now but think the way to go is to do things properly now and get 3" lifing springs and 3" longer shocks to match with castor corrected arms front and rear and a front prop spacer with my longer brake hoses and adjustable panhad rods.

This costs money and as far as I can see, the ORA 3" lift kit that contains all of this stuff is possibly the most complete kit to buy but you could get bits from here and there and get it a little cheaper, but that will mean a fair amount of messing about.

Having chatted with Rob Butler on the dog and bone, the ORA 3" lift kit will allow the rear springs to slightly dislocate with a spring clamp on the bottom of the rear springs using the top mount as a slight re-location cone, as it's design suits the role. This may give a little extra performance off road than other kits as it may just stop you being cross axled when other kits would have left you stuck. It also has rose joints on the panhard rods which eliminates bushes and will help with the old death wobble scenario me thinks. There is a school of thought that rose joints and mud do not make good bed fellows but I have no experience to comment.

So it's swings and roundabout then and as always comes down to money.

I've got to get mine through an MOT and prepare it for a competition at my club in the next month or so and over the winter will save and look to get the ORA lift kit me thinks.

The other issue is Radius Arm bushes. I have been a believer that rubber OE spec ones from ADK or Suzuki or Rhino Ray or ORA are the way to go, but look at the photo's of Russ from Jimnybits car using his Polybushes! He gets good flex and they may last longer and are easier to fit - but are more expensive than ADK.

Kirkynut