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Waxoyl Treatment
- adamatdraycott
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12 Aug 2011 05:55 #20221
by adamatdraycott
Waxoyl Treatment was created by adamatdraycott
I'm looking to start this weekend...
Has anyone bothered?
It seems to just be surface rust at the moment... few bits around the front end, mainly on welds... and the boot floor is dotted around... Signs of rust in the jack hole and infront of the rear seat belts.
Being an 04 model it should be galvonised... so shouldn't get serious
Thinking of rubbing it down with some scotch brite then treat areas with Locktite Rust Remedy and then stick some waxoyl on once it has been rubbed down lightly.
Does this sound like a good plan?
Has anyone bothered?
It seems to just be surface rust at the moment... few bits around the front end, mainly on welds... and the boot floor is dotted around... Signs of rust in the jack hole and infront of the rear seat belts.
Being an 04 model it should be galvonised... so shouldn't get serious
Thinking of rubbing it down with some scotch brite then treat areas with Locktite Rust Remedy and then stick some waxoyl on once it has been rubbed down lightly.
Does this sound like a good plan?
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12 Aug 2011 06:09 - 12 Aug 2011 06:11 #20222
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic Re: Waxoyl Treatment
My extended test of loctite rust remedy reveals that it doesn't work :dry:
I coated mine with various types of Dinitrol (Supposedly superior to waxoyl) last August
Cavity wax inside the chassis, stonechip under the wheelarches, black wax over the stonechip and the chassis.
Come May, the underside looked like those burnt out cars that have been in the rain.
My advice is to grind off any rust to bare metal, if you have time etch prime, (Dont use hamerite metal primer either) then paint with smoothrite or my favorite Aldi metal paint.
Keep daubing waxoyl underseal over the wheelarches, but be aware that rust is merrily chomping away beneath it.
The best plan is not to let it get wet, and don't drive on salted roads. :S
In the olden days we used to spray old engine oil all over the undersides of the rusty heaps we used to drive, but it never made any difference to how quickly they disintegrated IMO.
I coated mine with various types of Dinitrol (Supposedly superior to waxoyl) last August
Cavity wax inside the chassis, stonechip under the wheelarches, black wax over the stonechip and the chassis.
Come May, the underside looked like those burnt out cars that have been in the rain.
My advice is to grind off any rust to bare metal, if you have time etch prime, (Dont use hamerite metal primer either) then paint with smoothrite or my favorite Aldi metal paint.
Keep daubing waxoyl underseal over the wheelarches, but be aware that rust is merrily chomping away beneath it.
The best plan is not to let it get wet, and don't drive on salted roads. :S
In the olden days we used to spray old engine oil all over the undersides of the rusty heaps we used to drive, but it never made any difference to how quickly they disintegrated IMO.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Last edit: 12 Aug 2011 06:11 by facade.
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12 Aug 2011 06:21 #20223
by Halford
my plan is to use emery tape to rub down toolstation then treat with rust oxidiser, then hammerite/smoothrite (have several tins a different colours collected over the years).
trying to see if I can "rent out-of-hours time" on a car lift to sort underneath - don't like rust
not sure about waxoyl externally, unless professionally done, was thinking of some form of tough bituminous type product after treating any existing rust -
Replied by Halford on topic Re: Waxoyl Treatment
not yet, but it's on the list :SHas anyone bothered?
my plan is to use emery tape to rub down toolstation then treat with rust oxidiser, then hammerite/smoothrite (have several tins a different colours collected over the years).
trying to see if I can "rent out-of-hours time" on a car lift to sort underneath - don't like rust
not sure about waxoyl externally, unless professionally done, was thinking of some form of tough bituminous type product after treating any existing rust -
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- adamatdraycott
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12 Aug 2011 06:30 #20224
by adamatdraycott
Replied by adamatdraycott on topic Re: Waxoyl Treatment
I'll only be preparing the underside, as my uncle has said he'll help me spray the underside on the ramps at his work
Also... has anyone got any ideas on how to remove external panels? i had a look at the plastic sills last night, and they are held on by the dreaded £5000 clips which are bound to snap if i pull too hard
Will be fetching the front bumper and headlights out this afternoon. Will take pics as i go hopefully!
Also... has anyone got any ideas on how to remove external panels? i had a look at the plastic sills last night, and they are held on by the dreaded £5000 clips which are bound to snap if i pull too hard
Will be fetching the front bumper and headlights out this afternoon. Will take pics as i go hopefully!
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12 Aug 2011 06:53 - 12 Aug 2011 06:59 #20227
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic Re: Waxoyl Treatment
If you are careful, the plastic comes off and goes back again .
I removed all mine.
The door treads break their moulded clips off, but they sit on the top of the sills nicely without them.
All the inner arch panels come out when you undo the plastic rivets by flicking the centre outwards.
The outer panels come off and go back if you are careful, but the arches are sealed to the wings with a foamy tape type sealant that I don't have, so mine have gaps around the edges now.
The rear arch extensions rust under the plastic, be prepared!
I think the sills are held with the reuseable plastic rivets too, along with a few moulded in clips.
Just ease the panel off until you locate the clip, then pull/lever it square at the clip, IIRR I used old cornflakes packet against the paint and a couple of screwdrivers, but you can buy a proper trim remover tool from machinemart.
The only trim clips I had to buy from suzuki were for the inside rear panel, when I fitted rear speakers, I broke a couple just banging the panel back, you have to use a torch and a screwdriver to align the clip with the hole. They were about 60p each, so not too bad.
I removed all mine.
The door treads break their moulded clips off, but they sit on the top of the sills nicely without them.
All the inner arch panels come out when you undo the plastic rivets by flicking the centre outwards.
The outer panels come off and go back if you are careful, but the arches are sealed to the wings with a foamy tape type sealant that I don't have, so mine have gaps around the edges now.
The rear arch extensions rust under the plastic, be prepared!
I think the sills are held with the reuseable plastic rivets too, along with a few moulded in clips.
Just ease the panel off until you locate the clip, then pull/lever it square at the clip, IIRR I used old cornflakes packet against the paint and a couple of screwdrivers, but you can buy a proper trim remover tool from machinemart.
The only trim clips I had to buy from suzuki were for the inside rear panel, when I fitted rear speakers, I broke a couple just banging the panel back, you have to use a torch and a screwdriver to align the clip with the hole. They were about 60p each, so not too bad.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Last edit: 12 Aug 2011 06:59 by facade.
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