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Introduction

• Suzuki used to produce a factory diesel edition of Jimny.
• The primary market for the diesel edition was Western Europe (excluding United Kingdom).
• The catalogue model name for diesel Jimny edition is JB53.
• The technical model name for diesel Jimny edition is SN415 (sometimes written as SN415VD).
• The marketing name for diesel Jimnys is "DDiS".

• DDiS Jimnys were most popular in Portugal, Spain, Italy and France.
  • A rough estimation is that almost every second Jimny in those countries, which was sold in the period 2003-2011, was DDiS.
• DDiS Jimnys also had minor to moderate presence in several other European countries.
  • Notable examples are Belgium, Germany and Austria.
    • A rough estimation is that two in every ten sold Jimnys in those countries, in the period 2003-2011, were DDiS.
• DDiS Jimnys have never been available in United Kingdom.

• Since DDiS Jimnys were produced "only" between 2003 and 2011, while petrol Jimnys have been in production since 1998 and still ongoing in 2017, DDiS Jimnys are relatively rare even in Europe.
  • Therefore, a potential Jimny buyer would normally be concerned what parts for the relatively rare DDiS Jimnys are specific to them, and how difficult is it to obtain those parts.
• Also, their typical concern is about servicing the diesel engine and other DDiS specifics.

Existing DDiS Jimny owners are usually struggling to find technical or service information about DDiS Jimnys, because there is hardly anything written about DDiS Jimnys in English language on the Internet.

The purpose of this article is to state all specifics about DDiS Jimnys which are not common with the ubiquitous petrol Jimny editions.

How to spot a DDiS Jimny on the road

DDiS Jimny have only two specific visible traits and one acoustic trait:

• Every DDiS Jimny has a prominent "power bulge" on its bonnet, which looks like it has been glued to the bonnet.
• Every DDiS Jimny has (or used to have) a "DDiS" badge on both front wheel fenders, near side turning lights.
• Diesel engine's sound is easy to recognize due to characteristic diesel "knocking" sound.

• If 7th and 8th character in vehicle's VIN are "53", than it's a DDiS edition.
• This is the proper "official" way of recognizing a DDiS Jimny.

Notes about the bonnet bulge

• Petrol Jimnys made after 2012 also have the bonnet bulge, but it is different than a DDiS bonnet bulge.
  • DDiS bulge is narrower and taller, and it is a separate piece which is glued onto the bonnet.
  • The post-2012 petrol bulge is much wider and lower, and most of it (except the front end) is one part with the bonnet.
    • It is pressed out from the bonnet just like any other curve on the bodywork.
• Both bulges are fake - they are blanked with a black plastic blanking plate in their outer entrances, so actually no air passes through them.

• A DDiS bulge actually has a technical purpose - to provide some additional space for the top of the 1.5 DCI engine to fit under the bonnet when the bonnet is closed.
• The intercooler in newer 63 kW DDiS Jimnys has no connection nor relation with the bonnet bulge.
• The intercooler is positioned low right front, just behind the front bumper, below the right head lamp.

• A post-2012 petrol bulge has no technical purpose.
• It has only a financial purpose - to increase sales.

Opening the bonnet bulge

Тhis modification has not been tried in practice - it is just a theoretical idea! If you perform it, please write your experience here.

• A modification to open / unblock the DDiS bonnet bulge can be done, so that additional fresh air enters the engine bay from the above.
• Although the intercooler is not positioned in this part of the engine bay and its operation will not be affected by this modification, the general air flow through the engine bay should be improved.
• This should result in better engine performance and lower the risk of overheating it during heavy duty operation (long uphill climbs, slow off road driving, etc).
• This operation is generally irreversible, as it requires (carefully) hammering out (breaking) the plastic plug on the front of the bulge, and also cutting out the section of the bonnet below the bulge by using a grinder.
• After the unblocking is done, it is advisable to install some strong DIY grid / mesh in the bonnet bulge, in order to prevent insects or other solid objects from entering the engine bay through the hole.

DDiS bonnet bulge pictures

• DDiS Jimny bonnet - A01.jpg

  DDiS Jimny bonnet - front view

• DDiS Jimny bonnet - A02.jpg

  DDiS Jimny bonnet - front side view 1

• DDiS Jimny bonnet - A03.jpg

  DDiS Jimny bonnet - front side view 2

• DDiS Jimny bonnet - B01.jpg

  DDiS Jimny in action

Post-2012 petrol bonnet bulge pictures

• Post-2012 Jimny bonnet - A01.jpg

  Post-2012 petrol Jimny bonnet - picture 1

• Post-2012 Jimny bonnet - A02.jpg

  Post-2012 petrol Jimny bonnet - picture 2

• Post-2012 Jimny bonnet - B01.jpg

  Post-2012 petrol Jimny bonnet - picture 3

• Post-2012 Jimny bonnet - C01.jpg

  Post-2012 petrol Jimny bonnet - picture 4

Main vehicle specifications

• This table shows main vehicle specifications which are different in DDiS diesel Jimnys compared to contemporary petrol Jimnys.
• All information is taken from official Suzuki's documentation.
• Specifications about fluid quantities and types for DDiS Jimnys are written in the Forecourt article.

Specifications

	M13A (non-VVT) petrol	M13A (VVT) petrol	DDiS K9K 48 kW	DDiS K9K 63 kW
Kerb mass [kg]	1045 - 1080	1060 - 1105	1138 - 1175	1155 - 1185
Gross vehicle mass (GVM) rating [kg]	1420	1420	1500	1500
Gross axle mass rating, front [kg]	680	680	780	780
Gross axle mass rating, rear [kg]	790	790	870	870
Engine compression rating	9.5:1	9.5:1	18.08:1	17.9:1
Main vehicle battery	12V 38B20L (normal climate) 12V 55B24L (cold climate)	12V 38B20R (normal climate) 12V 55B24R (cold climate)	12V 75D23L	12V 75D23L

Specifications which are common with petrol Jimnys:

• All vehicle dimensions
• Wheelbase
• Front and rear wheel track
• Ground clearance

Advantages and disadvantages of DDiS versus petrol

Advantages

• Lower fuel consumption, especially in city driving;
• Overall fuel consumption is probably the lowest among any proper all-terrain vehicle model ever produced;

• Much higher torque (pulling power), especially newer DDiS with 63 kW engine;
• Engine's RPM-torque curve is much more biased towards the lower 1500-2000 RPM range, which is excellent for all-terrain driving;
• Higher maximum speed;
  • If you are sufficiently stupid and brave, speeds of even 150 km/h are easily achievable on a good motorway!
• Much better suited for towing;

• Has a mean looking power bulge on the bonnet, which is different, larger and more pronounced than the power bulge on post-2012 petrol Jimnys;
  • The bonnet bulge provides a subconscious reference point while driving;
  • It also gives you a feeling of driving a big nasty 4x4 (it complements nicely with the mean diesel engine sounds);
• Engine sounds mean and utilitarian (different than in a Clio or Megane - not sure why), making the vehicle appear/seem like a larger serious 4WD truck both from the inside and from the outside.

Additional notes

Maximum torque comparison:

• Petrol G13BB: 104 Nm at 4500 RPM
• Petrol M13A: 110 Nm at 4500 RPM
• Petrol M13A VVT: 110 Nm at 4100 RPM
• Diesel K9K 700: 160 Nm at 2000 RPM
• Diesel K9K 266: 200 Nm at 1750 RPM! Hit the (off)road Jack!

• The plentiful torque of the 63 kW diesel engine means that it is much less sensitive to additional load in the vehicle than the petrol engine.
  • For example, the engine still pulls solidly even with four adult passengers inside, a 400 l roof box full of bags, four bicycles on the towbar and air conditioning on.
• There are aftermarket power boosting "chiptunings" available for the 63 kW K9K 700 engined DDiS Jimnys, but additional power is rarely needed in practice, and it would be hazardous for the relatively sensitive K9K engine.

DDiS engine RPMs at certain speeds in 5th gear:

• at 90 km/h, 2400 RPM
• at 100 km/h, 2800 RPM
• at 110 km/h, 3000 RPM

High-speed performence of 63 kW DDiS Jimnys:

• Vehicle has excellent acceleration up to cca 60-70 km/h.
• 100 km/h would be a nice limit for safe and pleasant driving on a motorway.
  • Over that, the engine begins working hard, but even more importantly, the car begins behaving insecurely.
• 120 km/h would be an upper limit for safe driving on a motorway.
  • Over that, you're driving fast and furious.
• A vehicle was driven even around 160 km/h on a motorway, and the engine feels like it could do even more if the transmission was not limiting it.
  • However, the vehicle was a fast moving-vibrating-jumping grave-capsule at that speed!

Disadvantages

• Availability limited to certain European countries, and in most of them it is relatively rare.
• Not produced after year 2011.
• Has never been produced with automatic transmission.

• The engine weights cca 100 kg more, so vehicle's already unbalanced front-to-rear weight distribution is further worsened;
  • This further increases vehicle's existing tendency to oversteer in bends and also to lose traction on uphill bends, or especially when going uphill in reverse (all this in 2WD mode);
• Adding heavy-duty steel front bumper and/or a front winch will further worsen vehicle's weight distribution, which is already heavily front-biased.
• The engine is noisier / rougher and certainly vibrates more than the very smooth working G13BB and M31A petrol engines;
  • This decreases interior comfort (though not nearly as much as with old agricultural diesel engines in 20th century vehicles);

• Higher periodic engine maintenance costs;
• Generally, diesel engines are much more complex than petrol ones, increasing the overall risk of failures, some of which are very hard to diagnose and/or very expensive to repair;
• Older 48 kW Renault 1.5 DCI engines are notorious for developing catastrophic engine failures caused by some elements of the fuel supply and distribution/injection system;
• The overall reliability of Renault's 1.5 DCI diesel engines generally is not quite on the same level as the excellent reliability of Suzuki's M13 petrol engines.
  • But "your mileage may wary" as they say!

• Vehicle is a half-breed of two completely different vehicle manufacturers:
  • It has Renault's engine and some engine peripherals, with Suzuki's vehicle computer and some engine peripherals.
    • So, if it develops a complicated engine issue, you will be stuck (or stretched) between two sides.
  • Only Suzuki workshops can read and change all genuine failure/diagnostic codes, descriptions and settings.
    • However, most of those workshops have no experience and knowledge about Renault's engines.
  • On the other hand, Renault workshops have the best knowledge and experience about servicing Renault engines.
    • But they have no proper access to vehicle's ECU.
  • You will most probably have to move the vehicle back and forth between those two to completely resolve the issue (if the two sides are that cooperative)!

• Not great for really hard-core offroading, because the engine was not really designed for such a heavy duty, and because turbocharger works only above cca 1500 RPM (standard turbocharger "turbolag" issue);
• If frequent short-term stopping/pausing while offroading is performed (for example to take pictures, clear branches or debris, etc.), the engine should not be turned off because turbocharger needs cooling down first (standard turbocharger issue);

Additional notes

• While the low RPM torque is very good, there is a severe power drop below cca 1500-1600 RPM, when the turbocharger shuts off (standard issue with any turbocharged engine).
  • Therefore, when offroading, sometimes 2nd low gear for going up a steep slope is not viable.
    • As soon as engine RPMs drop at cca 1500 RPM, you're dead stalled.
• That situation forces you to either charge up faster, or use 1st low gear, with higher risk of wheel slippage.
  • Clever driving can partially compensate for that, but skill and caution is required.

Notes on fuel consumption figures

• The table below presents fuel consumption figures for DDiS Jimnys.
• For comparison, fuel consumption figures for petrol Jimnys are also presented.

Fuel consumption figures [l / 100 km]

	K9K 700 diesel 1461 cm3 48 kW / 65 HP	K9K 266 diesel 1461 cm3 63 kW / 86 HP	G13BB petrol 1298 cm3 59 kW / 80 HP	M13A petrol 1328 cm3 60 kW / 82 HP	M13A VVT petrol 1328 cm3 63 kW / 86 HP
Urban	7,0	7,0	10,2	9,5	9,3
Extra-urban	5,6	5,6	7,1	6,8	6,3
Combined	6,1	6,1	8,2	7,8	7,3
Data source	Suzuki brochure	Suzuki brochure	www.mobile.de	www.mobile.de	Suzuki brochure

Notes:

• Mobile.de usually sources the fuel consumption data from vehicle manufacturers, but there are no guarantees about the accuracy.
• The fuel consumption statements are the same for both the older 48 kW K9K 700 engine and for the newer 63 kW K9K 266 engine.
  • This is not an error.
• All stated fuel consumption figures are for vehicles with manual gearbox.
• All stated fuel consumption figures are " ideal / official / laboratory / etc." figures.
  • Therefore, they might not be accurate in real life (just like for any other vehicle).

Forum user Bosanek has driven around 30 000 km in his gen.2 DDiS Jimny, on all kinds of road and terrain conditions. Here are his measurements:

• With AT-class tyres, the vehicle consumes about 6,2 l / 100 km extra-urban and about 7,5-8,5 l / 100 km urban.
  • Note: I rarely drive solely in urban areas between two fuel tank fills, so I can not give an accurate figure about urban fuel consumption.
• With a roof box on the roof, the fuel consumption increases by circa 0,5 l / 100 km.
• On difficult gravel roads and off road terrain, fuel consumption varies widely based on the conditions.
  • It is typically around 8-11 l / 100 km, but it can be as high as 15 l / 100 km in severe conditions.
• The overall average fuel consumption after 30 000 km of all roads, terrains and conditions is 7,3 l / 100 km.
  • This figure might vary significantly for other people, based on what, on what, through what, with what, without what, where, how, with who and without who they drive.

DDiS generations

Introduction

There have been two major generations of DDiS Jimny editions, and one "intermediary" generation.

• The 1st generation corresponds to "Type 4" Jimny technical revision;
• The "1.5th" generation corresponds to "Type 5" Jimny technical revision;
• The 2nd generation corresponds to "Type 6" and "Type 7" Jimny technical revision;

Note: A "type" is Suzuki's term for vehicle's technical production revision. For more information about Jimny "types", see wiki chapter "Manuals and owners guides".

• The 1st DDiS model was produced from 2003 until the first part of 2005.
• The 1.5th DDiS model was produced for a short while in 2005.
• The 2nd DDiS model was produced from the end of 2005 until approx 2011. The second model had several minor revisions. The differences between types 6 and 7 are generally minor.

Differences among DDiS generations

The main (primary) difference between the 1st and the 2nd DDiS generation is the change of engine power from 48 kW (65 PS) to 63 kW (86 PS). Read below for other differences.

The change from 1st to 2nd DDiS model occurred at the same time when all Jimnys (both petrol and diesel) received the following changes:

• From manually operated (stick-lever) 4WD transfer box to electrically operated (push-button) transfer box;
• From 1st generation interior trim to 2nd generation interior trim;
• From 1st generation front bumper to 2nd generation front bumper;

This transition occurred during the second half of year 2005.

The "1.5th" intermediary generation-model existed in the transitional period during 2005, and it contains a mix of new and old components. For example, a DDiS vehicle with older 48 kW engine and 1st generation front bumper, but with electrically operated transfer box and new interior trim. There might be some other rare combinations as well in that intermediary generation. Suzuki was probably getting rid of some old parts to clear the production line. Vehicles from this intermediary generation are rare since it was not produced for a long time.

The most significant changes between 1st and 2nd DDiS models:

1. Change of engine from 48 kW (65 HP) to 63 kW (86 HP), primarily by the addition of an intercooler.
2. Different fuel injection system;
3. Different fuel filter;
4. Different electrical generator and alternator (not verified yet);
5. Different air conditioning system and piping (not verified yet);
6. Different turbo charger;
7. Different engine sensors (crankshaft, camshaft, lambda, etc.) (not verified yet);
8. Different engine cooling system and piping;
9. Different ECU (vehicle computer);
10. Change from manually (lever) shifted transfer box to electrically (push-button) shifted transfer box;
11. Possibly a different gearbox?
12. Change from 1st generation to 2nd generation front bumper (see wiki article "Front bumper issues");
13. Completely redesigned interior trim (dashboard, instrument panel, steering wheel, switches and dials, seats, etc.);

The summary of the changes in the engine bay is:

• While the basic engine block might have remained the same, most of the peripheral engine components have changed, and an intercooler was added.
  • This resulted in significant power and torque increase (from 160 Nm to 200 Nm).
• Fuel consumption remained the same (see the subchapter "Notes on fuel consumption figures" for details on fuel consumption).

• The change from 1st to 2nd DDiS model also contains many common technical changes which happened with petrol Jimnys during the same transitional period.
  • Examples are different CV joints, front brake discs and front brake pads, handbrake cables, external side mirrors, etc.

• The newer intercooled 63 kW DCI engine requires the use of the much larger 2nd generation front bumper (to accommodate the intercooler and to feed it with air).
  • That is why the 2nd generation front bumper was invented in the first place, but Suzuki sadly decided to bolt it onto every petrol Jimny as well from 2006 until 2012.

Additional notes

Warning for 1st gen. DDiS Jimnys

• All DDiS Jimnys with the older 48 kW (non-intercooled) engine should be avoided like the plague!
  • The reason is a notorious catastrophic engine failure, which commonly develops in those engines.
  • It is a common issue with those particular Renault engines, which are found in many other vehicle models from the era of 2003-2005 (Clio for example).
    • In short, a poorly made high pressure fuel pump starts to create metal particles, which then quickly destroy fuel injectors and even engine cylinders.
    • The resulting damage is typically terminal - a total engine write-off.
• There have been numerous reports of exactly that problem plaguing DDiS Jimnys with 48 kW 1.5 DCI engine.
• There have also been several success stories of such Jimnys achieving more than 200 000 kilometers on the odometer without a problem.
  • But why gamble, especially when 48 kW is severely underpowered?

The only two advantages to have a 1st generation DDiS Jimny instead a 2nd generation DDiS Jimny are:

1. To have a smaller 1st generation front bumper (see wiki article "Front bumper issues");
2. To have a manually (lever) shifting transfer box;

• Newer 2nd generation DDiS Jimnys with 63 kW 1.5 DCI engines have different fuel injection system components which typically do not suffer from the above mentioned catastrophic failures.
• They also have significantly more power and torque than the 1st generation DDiS Jimnys, while retaining the same fuel consumption figures.
• In reality, the fuel consumption might be even slightly lower, because the stronger engine has to work less hard to achieve the same desired result.

Notes on factories

• There used to be widespread belief that DDiS Jimnys were made exclusively by Santana in Spain.
  • However, there have been several confirmed findings of DDiS Jimnys which were made in Japan (VINs beginning with "JSA....").
  • Also, Suzuki's official service manuals clearly mention VIN ranges for DDIS Jimnys which are made in Japan, and contain a lot of servicing information for them.
• All Jimnys built by Santana have their own different service manuals.
• Suzuki has a factory in Hungary (in Esztergom), but DDiS Jimny have never been produced there.
  • However, Suzuki's main vehicle parts warehouse for Europe is also located in Esztergom.

• It would be recommended to buy a "made in Japan" DDiS Jimny, purely because Santana built Jimnys tend to have a mix of different parts and configurations without some particular rule.
• Adding that variety to the existing variety of having a DDiS Jimny in the first place might be a little bit too much of varieties.

Notes on K9K engines

General information

• Both the older 48 kW and newer 63 kW "DDiS" engines are (more or less) ordinary Renault "1.5 DCI" diesel engines.
• Renault's 1.5 DCI diesel engines are used in many other vehicles, primarily Renault ones (of course), but also many Dacias, some Nissans, etc.

• The technical name of all 1.5 DCI engines is "K9K".
• Beware that there are generally many editions and revisions of 1.5 DCI engines.
  • The number suffix after the "K9K" name determines the edition/version of the engine.

• The various editions and versions of 1.5 DCI engines are distinguished primarily by their power output (ranging from 48 kW to cca 81 kW).
  • However, the configuration and models of engine peripherals like the turbocharger, intercooler, fuel injection system, emission control system etc. are highly dependent on the engine edition/version.
• More information on 1.5 DCI engines is written in an article in global world Wikipedia.

Notes on older 48 kW engine (K9K 700)

• The technical name of the older 48 kW DDiS engine is "K9K 700".
  • Main specifications: diesel, 1461 cm3 cubic capacity, power 48 kW / 65 PS, direct injection, common-rail, torque 160 Nm @ 2000 RPM, turbocharged, non-intercooled.
  • It conforms to Euro 3 emission specifications.
• This (or very similar) engine is also used in some editions of Renault Clio II, Renault Kangoo and Dacia Logan.
  • On those vehicles, the engine can be recognized by having the same 48 kW of power.
    • However, the compatibility of every engine part, sensor and peripheral device against the engine used in DDiS Jimny may vary.
      • Investigating all that would be a grand project!
• This engine has a very troublesome fuel injection system, and therefore all vehicles with this engine should be avoided!

Notes on newer 63 kW engine (K9K 266)

• The technical name of the newer 63 kW DDiS engine is "K9K 266".
  • Main specifications: diesel, 1461 cm3 cubic capacity, power 63 kW / 86 PS, torque 200 Nm @ 1750 RPM, turbocharged, intercooled.
  • It conforms to Euro 4 emission specifications.
• This (or very similar) engine is also used in Renault Clio III, Renault Megane II and III, Renault Modus, Dacia Sandero and Nissan Micra III.
  • On those vehicles, the engine can be recognized by having the same 63 kW of power.
    • However, the compatibility of every engine part, sensor and peripheral device against the engine used in DDiS Jimny may vary.
      • Investigating all that would be a grand project!
• The fuel injection system in this engine is different than in K9K 700 engine, and generally has no widespread issues.

Parts availability for DDiS engines

• Most Suzuki's warehouses and distribution centers in Europe stock all parts for DDiS Jimnys (even all engine parts), normally like any other part, under Suzuki's catalogue numbers and with Suzuki badging on the packaging.
  • It is logical to assume that they bought at least the engine parts either from Renault or from Renault's OEM suppliers.
• However, most engine parts and engine peripherals' parts can also be bought either genuine from Renault or on the aftermarket.
  • That is good news because Suzuki's prices are generally horrendously expensive (but not always though).

• The main issue is that it's not easy to determine which Renault parts are the matching equivalents, because of so many variations of 1.5 DCI engines.
  • The simplest way is to have your DDiS / K9K engine serviced by experienced Renault mechanics, who should be able to determine and obtain the matching Renault or aftermarket parts for your DDiS Jimny's engine.
  • You can of course do you own investigations and matching on the Internet.

Forum user Bosanek had personal experience with successfully using the following OEM Renault or aftermarket engine parts in his own DDiS 2nd gen. (type 6) Jimny:

DDiS / K9K engine parts used

Part description	Suzuki P.N.	Part actually used	Alternatives	Notes
Timing belt kit (timing belt and timing belt tensioner)	12760-84A50 (most probably!)	Genuine Renault (P.N. 77 01 477 028)	Others available	None
Accessory drive belt (serpentine belt, V-belt)	95141-84A00?	Genuine Renault (P.N. unknown)	Others available	P.N. unknown because mechanic obtained the part
Water pump	17410-84A11	Genuine Renault (P.N. unknown)	Others available	P.N. unknown because mechanic obtained the part
Glow plug(s)	18550-84A51	SWAG 30 91 7979	Many others available	None
Camshaft sensor	33220-84A10 (type 6) 33220-84A20 (type 7 from JSAFJB53V00451107)	Metzger 0903038	Many others available	None
Camshaft front oil seal	12746-84A01	Genuine Renault, P.N. unknown	Others available	P.N. unknown because mechanic obtained the part
Crankshaft sensor	38930-76A00?	Metzger 0902052	Many others available	None
Crankshaft oil seal, front	16114-84A00	Not replaced yet	?	Haven't had a failure yet
Crankshaft oil seal, rear	16121-84A00	Not replaced yet	?	Haven't had a failure yet
Cylinder head gasket	11179-84A00	Not replaced yet	?	Haven't had a failure yet
Inlet metering valve (fuel pressure regulator) for the high pressure fuel pump	15213-84A00	Delphi 9109-903	No other models or makes appear to be compatible	Alternate P.N.s: 1. Delphi 28233373 2. Delphi 9307Z523B
Coolant temperature sensor	13660-84A01?	Metzger 0905159	Others available	Acquired preventively but not yet installed
Oil pressure switch	37820-84A01	Not replaced yet	?	Haven't had a failure yet
Inlet air temperature sensor	13650-84A00	Not replaced yet	?	Haven't had a failure yet
MAF sensor	13800-84A50	Not replaced yet	?	Haven't had a failure yet
MAP sensor	18590-84A51	Not replaced yet	?	Haven't had a failure yet
EGR valve	18520-84A53	Not replaced yet	?	Haven't had a failure yet
Electrical generator pulley	31171-84A10	Febi Bilstein 47589	Others available (Ina 535 0233 10 should fit)	None
Fuel filter	15410-84A51	1. Genuine Suzuki 15410-84A51 2. Mann WK 9008 3. Mahle/Knecht KL 404	Many others available	The filter in Suzuki's genuine packaging was in fact Mahle/Knecht KL 404 - high quality
Air filter	13780-84A00	Japanparts FA-823S	Many aftermarket brands available	None
Oil filter	16510-84A11	Blue Print ADN12121	Many aftermarket brands available	None
Gasket, oil pan	11529-84A01	Corteco 028121P	No other aftermarket brand OEM Renault 82 00 312 820 or 82 00 379 654	Haven't actually installed it yet, but I'm 90% certain
Oil pan drain screw / plug	11518-63J10	Many other available	?	Any equivalent screw fits

• Bosanek also verified in practice that the oil sump on the DDiS K9K 266 engine is different than in similar K9K (1.5 DCI) engines found in Renault cars.
  • The oil sump in DDiS engine was modified (probably on Suzuki's request) to provide better oil flow through the engine (and avoid engine's oil starvation) under significant vehicle inclinations, including significant side inclinations.
    • This was smart thinking from Suzuki, but it also means that in case of a damaged engine oil sump, you will most probably have to hunt for a replacement one strictly from another DDiS Jimny (or from Suzuki).
• It is not known if this situation is the same with the oil sump in older DDiS K9K 700 engine.

Currently no other reports of using replacement parts in DDiS engines exist, but even this list provides solid confidence in aftermarket availability of DDiS engine parts.

Issues and solutions with K9K engine failures

K9K 700 engine specific

• The fuel pump usually starts to disintegrate at a certain point, wrecking the injection system (your mileage may vary!).
  • There are no measures or methods to prevent it or to significantly delay it, except a preventive replacement of the fuel pump with another known excellent condition one (but how to know that!?).
• The plating between the con rods and the crank were poorly designed and tend to spin between the rod and the crank.
  • This, along with the very optimistic factory-recommended intervals for oil changes, leads to premature wear on said plating.
    • Failed platings cause all kinds of damage to the crank, rods, pistons and cylinders, resulting in seized engines or broken engine blocks.
  • Preventive replacement of those plates every 70 000 - 100 000 km is highly recommended (especially since it's generally not labor intensive and the parts cost "only" circa 100 EUR).
    • It appears that replacing the connection rod plates might actually be a major undertaking regarding the amount of labor. See the notes on K9K 266 engine below.

K9K 266 engine specific

• The design of the plating between the con rods and the crank was addressed by implementing shorter intervals for the oil changes and a different design of the plating, that became locked into place, no longer spinning between the crank and the rod.
  • Even so, preventive replacement of those plates every circa 100 000 km is a sound idea, since it's generally not labor intensive and the parts cost "only" circa 100 EUR.

• It appears that replacing the connection rod plates on K9K 266 engines actually requires a significant amount of labor, as the plates allegedly can not be reached from the bottom of the engine by simply removing the engine oil sump.
  • First of all, in order to completely remove the engine oil sump out of the way, the prerequisites are the removal of the lateral rod, and at least one tie rod (they block the space underneath).
    • Even with the engine oil sump completely removed out of the way, only the oil pump can be reached and serviced.
  • The connection rod plates are still inaccessible behind an additional "cage" acting as a "middle sump".
  • The part number of the cage / middle sump is 11522-84A51, and it can be clearly seen as item #1 on Suzuki's technical parts diagram E22_010 (link to diagram).
    • The main oil pan is item #5 in the diagram.
  • The cage / middle sump allegedly can not be removed with the engine in place - the whole engine has to be removed from the engine bay first!
    • So, replacing the connection rod plates on a K9K 266 engine requires a complete engine removal and dismantling half of the engine!
• This was all stated by an experienced Renault mechanic (who used to work for years for an official Renault service firm), after actually trying to replace the connection rod plates on a K9K 266 engine (2nd gen DDiS Jimny).
• This same constraint is probably valid for K9K 700 engines as well, because they also have a very similar "middle sump"
  • It's part number is 11522-84A00, portrayed as item #1 on Suzuki's technical parts diagram E22_010.

Issues and solutions common to both engines

EGR valve

• EGR valve, if not maintained regularly, tends to stick and allow hot exhaust air to constantly pass through.
• Either clean the EGR valve (or at least the actuator part) every circa 20 000 km, or alternatively blank it (not recommended for ecological reasons!).
• If EGR valve fails (sticks), it will cook turbo charger's seals, and oil will start to leak.
  • This results in failure of turbine's axle lubrication and a destroyed turbo charger.
    • A broken turbo charger can kill the entire engine!

• If the EGR valve is heavily clogged, it might be impossible to clean it to a functional condition.
  • In that case a new EGR valve is required - circa 100 EUR for the EGR sensor and another circa 100 EUR for the EGR body (if damaged).
• EGR valve is a bit tricky to demount - it is held on by three bolts, but one is hidden underneath.
  • Special caution is required not to damage the EGR valve during dismounting!
• When cleaning the EGR valve, clean the connecting pipes as well.

Smoke signals from the exhaust system

• Black smoke (except when driving on a very hard throttle - then it's normal) tends to indicate a problem in the injection system (probably clogged injectors or something).
• Brownish (dirty white) smoke tends to indicate a dirty (clogged) EGR valve.
• An intermittent loss of power, followed by a bust of power and a puff of black smoke - that's unburned fuel.
  • A hood idea is to check the injectors and the fuel filter!
• White or blueish smoke indicates a bigger problem (anything from a cracked cylinder head or blown engine head gasket to turbo problems).

• If there is a constant plume of blue smoke during engine idling, that means that the engine is burning oil.
  • It's probably something like worn piston rings (compression test can determine that).
• The other cause of blue smoke is a very badly failing turbo charger (loads of oil burning).
  • This white/blueish smoke is heavily prominent during acceleration above 2000 RPM.
• White smoke with the engine hot during idle will be something to do with engine coolant system (coolant going in the chambers) or a worn engine head gasket.

Oil around the turbo charger

• If the oil is leaking/coming from before the turbo charger (somewhere between the air filter and the turbo charger), that is not a major issue.
  • It is just oil vapour or a bit of oil coming out, because the oil breather sometimes clogs up.
• An oil catch can can be installed in that section to remedy the issue.
  • Oil catch cans sell for circa 20 EUR (on Ebay for example).
  • Oil catch can is a low tech add-on - it's just a bypass between the oil breather and the admission tube.
  • The purpose of an oil catch can is to catch and condense oil vapour that would otherwise go into the turbo charger and the combustion chamber and would dirty the engine, and make a bit of carbon build up on the valves and stuff.
• This is not a major issue, but for the relatively low price, it is not a bad idea to keep the elements clean.

• If the oil is coming from after the turbo charger, that means the oil is coming from the turbo charger itself, probably from a worn out or cooked seal.
  • That needs attention as soon as possible, or at least, as soon as a white-ish or blue-ish smoke appears from the exhaust, or if you smell burned oil.
    • That tends to grow worse and eventually will result in turbo charger damage.

Tips for care and maintenance of K9K engines

Renault's K9K ("DCI") engines are not the most robust engines in the industry, and they should be driven with care. If done so, they typically return the same amount of care.

Most of the advices below are generic for all turbocharged diesel engines, not just for Renault's K9K engines.

Important elements of care

1. Do not drive off immediately after starting a cold engine.
   • In the summer time, wait at least 10 seconds.
   • In the winter time, wait at least 30 seconds, or at least a minute in freezing temperatures.
2. Even if you restart a warm engine after a shorter pause, wait at least 10 seconds before driving off, so that the engine oil achieves good flow, especially through the turbo charger.
3. Do not shut the engine off immediately after stopping, especially after high speed driving, driving uphill or driving off road (in short, under load)!
   • Idle the engine for at least a minute after stopping in such situations, so that the turbocharger cools off through the flowing oil.
     • Otherwise, turbocharger's bearings can be damaged.
   • This is a standard issue with all turbocharged engines.
4. Avoid "revving" the engine hard in any condition (above 3500 RPM). Preferably keep the engine RPMs under 3000 RPM.
   • There isn't much benefit in "revving" a diesel engine in general, as their torque curve is biased much more around 2000 RPM range.
5. Do not use very strong throttle in low engine RPMs (<= ~1800 RPM).
   • This puts excessive load on certain vital parts of the engine (connecting rods, crankshaft, etc.).
   • The turbocharger won't be delighted either.
6. If RPMs drop to <= ~1600 RPM, downshift to lower gear!
   • During such low RPMs, turbocharger's lubrication will be on the minimum verge of its operating norm.
     • Throttling it then is the worst thing to do.
   • Don't be lazy - change to lower gear and then apply the throttle!
7. The vehicle should be periodically (at least once a year) taken on a motorway to be "burned out" - driven hard on ~3200 RPM in 4th gear at ~100 km/h continuously for at least 15 minutes.
   • That will burn out accumulated soot deposits in certain parts of the engine and in the exhaust system (catalytic converter, DPF, etc.).
     • This is especially important if the vehicle is used predominantly in city traffic or off road.
   • This is best combined with using a fuel injection system treatment chemical (see more below), and with relatively fresh engine oil.
8. Use high quality engine oil and oil filter and change them every 10 000 km or even sooner (manual says every 15 000 km - that is too optimistic).
   • For frequent off road driving, use oil + filter changing intervals of 7000-8000 km.
9. Change the air filter with each engine oil change.
   • Don't skimp by just cleaning it!
10. Have the EGR valve cleaned of soot, as well as EGR valve's and turbocharger's connecting pipes cleaned of soot and other deposits in regular intervals.
    • Recommended intervals are each 20 000 - 30 000 km, or every 50 000 km in the worst case.
11. You might consider periodically using engine flushing chemicals to flush the engine when changing engine oils.
    • A possibly recommended interval might be every 50 000 km.
      • However, this is a somewhat controversial topic in general, so you should perform the final investigation about the risks of this procedure in general.
12. Do not use low quality diesel fuel!
    • The fuel injection systems of DCI engines are quite sensitive and delicate, and low quality fuel can produce many headaches (intermittent annoying issues or even permanent and expensive damage).
13. Avoid letting the fuel level in the fuel tank drop to the reserve.
    • This way gum and deposits from the bottom of the fuel tank could get sucked into the delicate fuel distribution and injection system.
14. Use only high quality fuel filters.
    • Proven high quality fuel filters for 2nd gen. (63 kw) DDiS Jimnys are Mahle/Knecht KL 404, Mann WK 9007, Valeo 587544, etc.
      • There are other high quality brands of course.
15. Replace the fuel filter in regular intervals.
    • It's a rather simple job and the filter is freely accessible in the engine bay.
    • The manual says that the replacement interval is every 45 000 km, but this highly depends on the fuel quality in your country.
      • For example, many Eastern and South Eastern European countries are notorious for the presence of very low quality fuels, so much that some vehicle manufacturers do not sell their diesel vehicles in such countries at all.
        • In such circumstances, the fuel filter should be replaced every 30 000 km, preferably every 20 000 km - it's your choice!
16. You might consider periodically using fuel flushing (fuel injection system cleaning) chemicals to flush the fuel in the fuel tank, fuel piping and clean the fuel injectors.
    • If high quality chemicals are used, there should not be any risk of side effects.
    • Renault sells a "diesel fuel injection system treatment" chemical which is allegedly specifically made for their DCI engines.

The procedure of using a fuel injection system treatment chemical

1. Buy a fuel injection system treatment chemical of your choice.
2. Drive until the fuel tank is almost empty.
3. Stop at your desired fuel station.
4. Before pouring the fuel, pour the fuel treatment chemical in the fuel tank.
5. Now pour in diesel fuel until the fuel tank is half full (to achieve double density of the chemical in the fuel).
   • This is approx. 15-20 l for DDiS Jimnys.
6. Drive hard in the following period until you almost empty the fuel tank.
   • The best way is to drive on the motorway in 4th gear but at the same speed as you would normally drive in the 5th gear.
     • For example, drive at 100 km/h in 4th gear continuously for at least 15 minutes.
   • That will be around 3200 RPM and will burn out any deposits in the engine and the exhaust (catalytic converter, DPF etc.).
     • More importantly, it will pump high fuel flow (together with the mixed in fuel treatment chemical) through the fuel injection system, which should "rinse" it properly.
7. When you almost empty the fuel tank, pour in new diesel fuel normally and you're done.
8. Replace the fuel filter.
   • Use a high quality replacement filter.

The best time to use fuel treatment chemicals is shortly before the planned schedule to change the fuel filter.
Also, the oil in the engine should be relatively new (not "older" than ~5000 km).
It is not advised to perform this procedure when engine oil is worn/old (due to be replaced soon)!

• 

  Appearance of a typical fuel filter used in K9K 700 engines (1st gen. DDiS Jimnys)

• 

  Appearance of a typical fuel filter used in K9K 266 engines (2nd gen. DDiS Jimnys)

• OEM P.N. of fuel filter for K9K 700 engine is 15410-84A00.
• OEM P.N. of fuel filter for K9K 266 engine is 15410-84A51.

Servicing K9K engines

"Official and expensive" method of obtaining parts

• Get yourself a copy of official Suzuki vehicle parts database / catalogue (or use a Russian online edition at suzuki.afora.ru).
  • Use the parts database to determine the official Suzuki part number of your defective DDiS engine part.
    • Then either search for the part online (but good luck for that!) or order those parts through your official Suzuki dealers, and get them replaced and installed somewhere else.
• If your local Suzuki dealer says that it can not order those parts because they are for the unholy / heretic / infidel DDiS Jimny, just tell them that Suzuki's main warehouse in Hungary (in Esztergom, where Suzuki's main European car factory is located) has all needed parts for DDiS Jimnys, and that they should check there.
• This method is expensive as you would be buying "genuine" Suzuki's parts, which Suzuki had essentially bought from Renault and resold over to you, or something like that.
  • But sometimes the prices may be right, so it is not a bad idea to try this method first every time, to see the prices.
• The main advantage of this method is that you would be have the most certainty that you are obtaining the correct part.

"Trial-and-error and cheap" method of obtaining parts

• Drive your car to an unofficial Renault service garage which has good reputation for having experienced servicemen.
  • Alternatively, demount a defective engine part and take it to them.
• Have some experienced servicemen look at the issue or part and determine what is the exact matching replacement Renault or aftermarket part needed, and have them obtain it and install it for you.
  • This method might not be successful every time, depending on the issue and the experience of the servicemen.
  • This method also carries a risk that a very similar (but technically and invisibly incompatible) replacement parts gets installed and used, possibly causing more harm than good.

Servicing the engine and engine peripherals

• When doing regular periodic maintenance of your DDiS engine, or in the unfortunate event that you do have a problem with your DDiS engine or with engine peripherals, your best chance of repair would be to go to an experienced Renault mechanic.
  • It is highly recommended to conduct a personal research of the issue beforehand, so that you are at least approximately acquainted with the issue when you appear at the workshop.
• If they initially refuse to work on a non-Renault vehicle, try to persuade them to work on the engine only, and tell them that it's practically a standard Renault engine.

Computer diagnostics

• Suzuki's service manual from 2006 clearly states that the vehicle computer ("ECU") in Jimnys provides full set of information and access only to genuine Suzuki diagnostic devices, using a proprietary Suzuki communication protocol.
• The service manual also states that the ECU also provides OBD2 communication protocol to "industry standard compatible diagnostic devices".
  • However, the service manual clearly states that, with OBD2 protocol, ECU's provided set of information, level of detail, and depth of access is severely restricted.
  • It is confined to minimum legal requirements set by the OBD2 standard.
• This has been confirmed in practice - some errors ("diagnostic trouble codes"), which were present and active when read with Suzuki's genuine scan tool, were invisible when checked with a generic OBD2 diagnostic tool.

• Therefore, if the problem is so complicated that it requires accessing vehicle's ECU for performing computer diagnostics or changing computer settings, you will most probably have to go to a Suzuki authorized workshop.
• Renault's diagnostic devices will probably recognize a generic OBD2 ECU, with a rather limited information set available (that has at least been Bosanek's experience).
• Generic OBD2 diagnostic tools (available on Ebay and similar sites) and generic software have been proven to work in practice, but with very limited functionality.
  • A generic OBD2 diagnostic tool and software can read some fault codes (those which Suzuki chose to provide), and some basic working measurements like air temperature, etc.

• A very good software for mobile phones, made specifically to access ECUs in Suzuki vehicles, is SZ Viewer!
• This software (like any other) prerequisites the use of an OBD2-compatible Bluetooth or WiFi diagnostics device (typically an ELM-327 compatible one).

• Jimny DDiS ECU access - A01.jpg

  Suzuki SDT reading DCTs from DDiS ECU - example 1

• Jimny DDiS ECU access - B01.jpg

  Suzuki SDT reading DCTs from DDiS ECU - example 2

• Jimny DDiS ECU access - C01.jpg

  Suzuki SDT reading ECU ID from DDiS ECU - example 1

• Here are three example screenshots of Suzuki's genuine SDT (diagnostic tool) while it is connected to the ECU of a 2nd gen. DDiS Jimny (type 6).
  • Note the content of the header on the screens.
• The Suzuki SDT regularly managed to recognize the ECU in its device configuration catalogue and access it fully.
• The displayed part number of the ECU in the 3rd picture is how the SDT read it.

Issue with a 3-way coolant pipe on gen. 2 DDiS Jimnys

If you notice engine coolant leaks below the engine bay of your 2nd gen. DDiS Jimny (with 63 kW), you might have a relatively common failure of one small, simple, but nasty coolant system part.

• There is a plastic 3-way pipe as a part of engine's cooling system.
• It is located behind the engine towards the passenger cabin, and it is very hard to reach.
• It is known to wear out and start leaking after cca 50 000 - 100 000 km (your mileage may wary!).
  • The pipe actually gets "eaten off" by the coolant.
• As the 3-way pipe is very hard to access and see, it is a bit hard to determine as the source of the leak once the leak appears below the vehicle.
• Luckily the issue usually develops gradually (it starts leaking more and more), so you usually have sufficient time (weeks) to react.
• Earlier 1st gen DDiS Jimnys (with 48 kW K9K 700 engine) have a completely different engine coolant distribution system, and therefore this issue does not apply to them.

• OEM 3-way pipe P.N. is 17878-84A50.
• The original replacement part is not too expensive (circa 10 EUR).
  • However, it's not a typical stock item in Suzuki's warehouses.
• The labor cost of its complicated replacement is relatively high (half of the engine has to be disassembled to reach it and to be able to maneuver around it).
• Also, the OEM replacement will have the same quality issue and will probably need another replacement after approx 50-150 thousand km.
• The 3-way pipe is of special shape and design as well as pipe diameters, so it is pointless to try to find a similar one in car junk yards.

If the original replacement part is not available in time, or if you desire a permanent lifelong solution, there is an unconventional alternative:

• You can hire a professional home water heating system installer to make you a copper 3-way pipe of matching shape and diameters.
  • A professional should be able to make it in less than 20 minutes labor time and for a minor cost.
• Tin solders are used to bond the individual pipes together.
• The same pipes are used to conduct hot water between radiators in home water heating systems.
• Bosanek did it that way, and the copper DIY pipe is still holding strong after 30 000 km.
• The only downside in this solution is that the 3-way pipe is larger in total size than the original one, no matter how much the copper pipe elements are shortened.
  • However, since half of the engine had to be disassembled anyway to access the location, installing this larger one should not be so much more difficult (it can fit in the space).

• These three pictures contain a red arrow which points to the location of the 3-way pipe
• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen.2 - 3-way coolant pipe location - A01.jpg

  Overview of the location of the 3-way pipe in the engine bay of a 2nd gen. DDiS Jimny

• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen.2 - 3-way coolant pipe location - A02.jpg

  Closer view of the location of the 3-way pipe in the engine bay of a 2nd gen. DDiS Jimny

• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen.2 - 3-way coolant pipe location - A03.jpg

  Close-up of the 3-way pipe in the engine bay of a 2nd gen. DDiS Jimny

• Here are the parts themselves
• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen2 - original 3-way coolant pipe - PN 17878-84A5.jpg

  Genuine Suzuki 3-way coolant pipe 17878-84A50, worn

• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen2 - replacement DIY 3-way coolant pipe - PN 17878-84A5.jpg

  Replacement DIY copper 3-way coolant pipe next to the original worn 3-way coolant pipe

• This is how the genuine 3-way coolant pipe looked after it was worn.
  • Two of its prongs were so worn (thinned and cracked) that they actually crumbled during dismounting.
• The DIY copper coolant pipe took 30 minutes to make (including measuring).
  • It was assembled using hot soldering method.
• The diameter of every prong pipe is written for convenience.
• The DIY pipe's prongs were shortened to proper lengths during assembly in the engine bay.

Improving air flow through the intercooler on gen.2 DDiS Jimnys

• The intercooler in the 2nd gen. DDiS Jimnys is positioned just behind the right corner of the front bumper (below the right head lamp, above the right fog lamp).
  • Generally, this is a vulnerable position during wild off road driving, or in a case of collision, but not much can be done about it.
• The intercooler is in a relatively "airy" position, because it is positioned just behind the right plastic grille in the front bumper.
  • However, there is no fan to actively feed the intercooler with additional air when needed.

• 2nd gen. DDiS Jimny with its (2nd gen) front bumper removed
• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen2 - without front bumper - A01.jpg
• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen2 - without front bumper - A02.jpg
• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen2 - without front bumper - A03.jpg
• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen2 - without front bumper - A04.jpg
• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen2 - without front bumper - A05.jpg
• Suzuki Jimny DDiS gen2 - without front bumper - A06.jpg

• Therefore, when the engine is under heavy load in low velocity maneuvers (typical in off road situations), the intercooler will not receive nearly enough air exchange through it to perform its duty at an optimal level.
• When the intercooler overheats, it does not cool (no kidding!), and then it's effectively useless in such moments.
  • The result is a significant drop in engine power until the intercooler receives lots of more cool air again.
    • This means that the engine power will diminish in the moments when you need it the most.
  • In such moments, your fancy 63 kW K9K engine will behave more like the older non-intercooled 48 kW K9K engine from the early DDiS Jimnys.

• The solution is to securely install a strong 12V DC fan in the interior side of the front bumper, just in front of the intercooler.
  • The fan has to be made for outdoor conditions, with suitable dust and water ingress protection.
    • Don't be an idiot and use a fan from desktop computer's power supply unit!
• The wiring for the fan has to be DIY-made and a switch should be installed somewhere in the cabin.
  • Then you could turn the fan on/off manually whenever you anticipate a heavy engine load in low speed maneuvers.

• A suggestion - if you're really skimpy, the DIY wiring for the fan could possibly be connected to the existing wiring for the front fog lamps (if you have them) or for the additional front driving (spot) lamps (if you have them).
  • The advantage is that no additional switches, relays and fiddling in the passenger cabin would be necessary.
  • The disadvantage is that whenever the fog lamps (or spot lamps) are on, the intercooler fan will work as well, and vice versa.

Technical differences between DDiS and petrol Jimnys

Introduction

Since DDiS Jimnys are relatively rare compared to the presence of petrol Jimnys (depending on a country), a potential buyer is certainly concerned what parts of DDiS Jimnys are specific to them, and how difficult is it to buy them in the aftermarket.

This chapter gives detailed overview of the status of many vehicle component for which the compatibility has been determined "in the field".

The work on filling the tables below is still in the early stages! It should be complete probably in February-March 2017. So come again a bit later!

Note on the terms in the parts tables

• "Common" statement means that such a part is commonly shared between DDiS and at least one of petrol Jimny revisions.
  • It is usually at least the same petrol revision ("type") as the DDiS revision ("type").
    • In other words, it means compatibility with petrol vehicles which were in production at the time as the corresponding DDiS revision;

• "Specific" statement means that a part is unique/specific only to DDiS Jimnys.
  • It won't fit petrol Jimnys and vice versa.
    • Therefore, you have to buy this part specifically for a DDiS Jimny (in the aftermarket if available, otherwise from Suzuki) or scavenge it from another DDiS Jimny.
    • Also beware that some "DDiS specific" parts are compatible only with the 1st or the 2nd DDiS generation.
      • Read the notes in the tables for details!

• A dot (".") statement suffix means that a statement is confirmed by comparing part numbers between petrol and DDiS Jimnys in Suzuki's official vehicle parts catalog.
  • Some statements are additionally confirmed in practice (as indicated in the table).

• A question mark ("?") statement suffix means that the statement is not confirmed from Suzuki's official parts catalog and/or in practice.
  • Therefore, it's an assumption based either on some 3rd party catalogues, or on Internet "hearsay", or on claims by 3rd party vehicle parts shops, or just on general logical reasoning.

• Also beware that Jimnys built by Santana in Spain (both petrol and diesel) might have some parts specific to them only!
  • Spanish Jimny's VIN's begin with VSE....

Suspension parts

Suspension

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
Radius arms, front	Common.	No	None
Radius arms, rear	Common.	No	None
Radius arm bushings (all)	Common.	No	All radius arm to chassis bushings were improved in 2007 (just like in petrol Jimnys) to fight death wobble
Panhard rod, front	Common.	No	Common with LHD petrol Jimnys only (all RHD Jimnys have a front panhard rod specific to them)
Panhard rod, rear	Common.	No	None
Panhard rod bushes, front	Common.	No	None
Panhard rod bushes, rear	Common.	No	None
Coil springs, front	Specific.	No	Stronger to cope with extra weight in the engine bay DDiS P.N.: 41111-84A00 (per piece) - used by all DDiS Jimnys
Shock absorbers, front	Specific.	No	Stronger to cope with extra weight in the engine bay DDiS P.N.: 41600-84A00 (per piece) - used by all DDiS Jimnys
Coil springs, rear	Common.	No	Common with LHD petrol Jimnys only (all RHD Jimnys have rear springs specific to them)
Shock absorbers, rear	Common.	No	None
Stabilizer (anti roll) bar	Specific.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	Bar diameter 28 mm (significantly thicker than in petrol Jimnys) DDiS P.N.: 42311-84A00 - used by all DDiS Jimnys
Stabilizer bar bushing brackets	Specific.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	Larger to accommodate larger bushings DDiS P.N.: 42415-84A00 - used by all DDiS Jimnys
Stabilizer bar to chassis bushings	Specific.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	Inner diameter 28 mm, outer diameter also larger DDiS P.N.: 42412-84A00 (per piece) - used by all DDiS Jimnys
Stabilizer bar to axle "drop" link	Common.	No	None
Wheel rims	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	None

Drivetrain parts

Drivetrain

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
Constant velocity (CV) joint	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	For all Jimnys: CV joints in type 5 and newer are different than in type 4 and older
King pin	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	None
King pin bearing	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	None
Front wheel bearing	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS
Rear wheel bearing	Common.	No	None
Vacuum wheel locking hub head	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	For all Jimnys: Vacuum locking hub heads in type 5 and newer are different than in type 4 and older
Seals (steering knuckle, halfshaft, wheel bearing, etc.)	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	None
Front wheel hub casing	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	This casing holds the wheel bearing, kingpin bearings etc. For all Jimnys: Wheel hub casings in type 5 and newer are different than in type 4 and older
Front axle casing	Specific.	No	Minor differences in coil spring seats and shock absorber mounts to cope with the stronger coil springs and shock absorbers. An axle swap is possible depending on the coil springs and shock absorbers to be installed. Some components are not compatible between LHD and RHD vehicles. Used by all DDiS Jimnys.
Rear axle casing	Common.	No	An axle swap is possible. Rear axle casing differs for non-ABS and ABS models (irrespective of LHD or RHD). Used by all DDiS Jimnys.
Axle differential drain and filler plugs	Common.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	Common for both front and rear

Steering parts

Steering

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
Steering column assembly	For 1st gen. DDiS: Common except column itself and the cover. For 2nd gen. DDiS: Common except the cover.	No	1a. The column itself in petrol Jimnys in type 5 and newer is different than in type 4 and older. 1b. The column in 2nd gen. DDiS matches the newer column from petrol Jimnys. 2. The difference in the cover (casing) might just be cosmetic
Steering box	Specific.	No	DDiS P.N.: 48600-84A80
Steering box pitman arm	Specific.	No	DDiS P.N.: 48671-84A80
Tie rod, in front of the front axle	Common for Jimnys made in Japan. Specific for Santana Jimnys.	No	See note below
Tie rod, behind the front axle	Common for Jimnys made in Japan. Specific for Santana Jimnys.	No	See note below
Tie rod end, left hand tread	Common for Jimnys made in Japan. Specific for Santana Jimnys.	No	See note below (note missing!)
Tie rod end, right hand tread	Common for Jimnys made in Japan. Specific for Santana Jimnys.	No	See note below (note missing!)
Power steering pump, pulleys and piping	Specific.	No	None
Power steering oil tank	Common.	No	None

Engine and engine peripherals parts

Engine and engine peripherals

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
Engine itself	Specific (obviously!)	No need	None
Engine mounting bushes, front	Specific.	No	Two are used per engine (left and right)
Engine mounting bush rear ("gearbox mount")	Specific for 1st gen. DDiS. Common for 2nd gen. DDiS.	No	One is used per engine
Engine cooling system	Specific.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	The engine cooling system also differs between 1st and 2nd DDiS generation.
Fuel injection system	Specific.	Obvious	The fuel injection system also differs between 1st and 2nd DDiS generation.
Fuel filter	Specific.	Yes, on type 6 DDiS	The fuel filter also differs between 1st and 2nd DDiS generation.
Air conditioning system	Specific.
Electrical generator	Specific?
Electrical engine starter	Specific?
Air filter and oil filter	Specific.
Sensors (camshaft, crankshaft, oxygen, temperature, etc.)	Specific.
Catalytic converter	Specific?

Transmission parts

Transmission

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
Front differential casing	Common.
Front differential gears and components	Specific. (partly?)	See notes below
Front halfaxle, left	Common?
Front halfaxle, right	Common?
Rear differential casing	Common.
Rear differential gears and components	Specific. (partly?)	See notes below
Rear halfaxle, left	Common?
Rear halfaxle, right	Common?
Propeller shaft from gearbox to transfer case	Common?
Propeller shaft from transfer case to front axle	Common?
Propeller shaft from transfer case to rear axle	Common?
Universal joint for propeller shafts	Common.
Transfer box casing	Specific for lever shifted type? Common for electrically shifted type?		See notes below the table
Transfer box gears and components	Specific for lever shifted type? Common for electrically shifted type?		See notes below the table
Gearbox casing	Specific.		See notes below the table
Gearbox gears and components	Specific.		See notes below the table
Front wheel vacuum locking hubs	Common.
Vacuum system for operating front wheel hubs	Specific (partially)		See the chapter #Notes on the vacuum system for front wheel hubs for details
Transmission lever (for older transfer boxes)	Common.
Transmission buttons and electrics (for newer transfer boxes)	Common.

• It has been confirmed that the gearbox casing from DDiS Jimnys is completely different than from any petrol Jimny (it is specific to DDiS Jimnys).
  • This indicates that probably most (or all) gears in the gearbox are specific to DDiS Jimnys, but this has not been confirmed.
• It is currently unknown if the gearbox seals are specific or common.
• It appears (from the diagrams) that the gearbox casing is the same in 1st gen. and 2nd gen. DDiS Jimnys, but this has not been confirmed.
• It appears that the code name of the 1st gen. DDiS gearbox is "YR7D".
  • Source: photographs of a dismounted gearbox from a 1st gen. DDiS Jimny.
    • The code is written on a factory glued paper note on the gearbox casing.

• The lever shifted transfer case's casing from 1st gen. DDiS Jimnys is completely different than from petrol Jimnys.
  • This indicates that the gears inside might be specific as well, as well as the connection points with the propeller shafts.
    • But this is not verified.

• The electric push-button transfer case's casing in DDiS Jimnys appears to be the same as in petrol Jimnys which have the same (push-button) type transfer box.
  • However, this does not guarantee that the gears inside are the same and that the connection points with the propeller shafts are the same.

• The transmission ratio of DDiS differentials is specific to DDiS Jimnys - it is 3.416.
• All DDiS Jimnys have the same differentials.
  • However, some parts of the differential (like spider gears or bearings) might be common with some petrol Jimny differentials.
    • This has not been thoroughly investigated yet.
• The code name of DDiS rear differential is "J12F".
  • Source: photographs of a dismounted rear differential from a 2nd gen. DDiS Jimny.
    • The code is factory stamped on the gearbox casing, like a graffiti.

Body parts

Bodywork

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
Chassis	Specific.		Front rails strengthened - obviously different look. Other chassis elements not investigated.
Bonnet	Specific.		It has a specific fake power bulge glued onto it, with a hole in the bonnet below it to accommodate the K9K engine.
Engine bay internals	Specific (obviously!)		Vastly different layout of engine peripherals.
All other body panels	Common.

Electrical parts

Electrical

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
ECU (computer)	Specific.
Instrument cluster	Specific.		Some warning lights are specific for diesel engines.
Fuse and relay box in the engine compartment	Specific.
Fuse box under the dash board	Specific for 1st gen. DDiS. Common for 2nd gen. DDiS.
Overall wiring	Partly specific.		Details are to "tangled up" to elaborate.
Lamps (driving, turn, brake, interior, etc.)	Common.

Fuel tank system parts

Fuel tank system

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
Fuel tank	Specific?
Fuel tank intake piping	Specific?
Fuel tank filler cap	Specific.

Other parts

Other

Component	Compatibility	Checked in practice?	Notes
Cabin (pollen) filter	Common.	Yes	Example product is Blueprint ADK82502
Throttle pedal assembly	Specific.	No	None
Brake pedal assembly	Common.	No	None
Clutch pedal	Common.	No	None
Clutch pedal small back lever	Specific.	No	None

Brake system parts

• The entire brake system (brake discs, brake pads, brake drums, brake shoes, calipers, cylinders, cables, piping, etc.) is the same as in petrol Jimnys.
  • However, bear in mind that (for all Jimnys) certain brake components differ in types 5 and newer from types 4 and older.
    • Examples are brake discs and brake pads.

Notes on the vacuum system for front wheel hubs

File:DDiS Jimny engine bay - vacuum valves - A01.jpg

Location of the vacuum valves and switches in the engine bay of a DDiS Jimny

• In DDiS Jimnys, the vacuum system for the front wheel vacuum locking hubs is located in a different portion of the engine bay than in petrol Jimnys.
  • It is much more accessible in DDiS Jimnys.

• The vacuum is supplied directly by engine's vacuum pump (which itself is directly connected to the electrical generator).
  • In petrol Jimnys there is no vacuum pump at all.
• That same vacuum pump supplies some other engine peripheral systems as well.

• There is no tank to store the vacuum.
  • However, the valves and switches of the vacuum system, as well as the piping, are the same as in petrol Jimnys, except for some possible length differences in the piping.
• The piping scheme between the valves and the hubs are the same.

If you suspect that your vacuum system has issues, read the wiki article "Vacuum hubs - checking and testing".

Notes on vehicle computer systems

• The ECU (vehicle computer) is still Suzuki's despite the engine being Renault's.
• Suzuki adapted all engine sensors and electrics to be compatible with its ECU, and vice versa.
  • Therefore, all diagnostic devices (including Suzuki's genuine SDT tool of course) which read Suzuki's diagnostic protocols can normally and fully access all diagnostic information and settings.
  • On the other hand, Renault's diagnostic devices will (most likely) recognize the ECU as nothing more than another generic OBD2 unit.
    • Therefore, the most that they would most likely be able to read is generic standard OBD2 data (which Suzuki intentionally made to be relatively scarce to force you to come to them for full diagnostic aid).

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Page last edited on 14/02/2018 by user Bosanek