Universal joint replacement

The content of any article might be expanded / improved in the future - revisit it sometimes.
Seen a mistake? Know something that isn't written? Edit and change this article yourself!
Some images in the article (if present) can be enlarged by clicking on them.

Introduction

This article is just an embryo. It is an idea for someone to "pick up" onto and to expand the article further.

• There is an older guide on doing this somewhere, so someone should just copy it here and adjust.
• The topic are universal joints on Jimnys three propeller shafts, and how to replace an universal joint.

I know just the following:

• The universal joints on all propeller shafts are the same.
• Suzuki's original universal joint P.N. is 27200-83812.
• The dimensions of a compatible universal joint have to be 63,8 mm x 25 mm.
  • Note: Some older Jimnys use different (smaller) universal joints !?
• Suzuki's OEM universal joints and most aftermarket ones which are listed for Jimnys come without grease nipples.
• If you manage to find a good quality compatible universal joint with a grease nipple (for example the ones meant for industrial machines or for construction machines), then better for you.
• A factory fitted universal joint on a Jimny produced in 2006 was Koyo "KC1518CC-1 H".
  • It has no grease nipple.
  • It was removed from the rear propeller shaft where it connects to the rear differential (because it got worn) after the vehicle traveled around 150 000 km.

It is very important to mount all the prop shafts back exactly as they were, because they were balanced for that position in the factory!

Greaseable or non-greaseable universal joints

• One of the most common causes of driveshaft and U-joint failure is the lack of adequate or proper lubrication.
• There are two types of universal joints - factory sealed (non-maintenance) ones and greaseable ones (with grease nipples).

Non-greaseable joints

• Quality "sealed" universal joints can run for lots of kilometers (even over 150 000 is not uncommon) without any maintenance required.
• However, they will sometimes do so with the needle bearings in them rusted almost completely away.
• One "telltale" sign of an internally rusted universal joint is a squeak or slight grinding noise at speeds below 15 km/h or so.
  • This squeak or grinding can sometimes be quite loud, and it can fool you into falsely believing that something is wrong in the (very expensive) differential, gear box or the transfer case!
• Such a joint may have no play or show any outward sign of deterioration.
  • However, when taken apart, it's a rusted crumbling mess!

• The most common cause for rust in a sealed universal joint is that a lot of drive lines rarely if ever run at harsh articulation angles.
  • Therefore, if a non-maintained universal joint is nearly "straight on" most of the time, you may not know when it has lost its lubricant in certain parts of it (which rarely get "engaged"), which are then corroding away.
• A sealed universal joint can be "converted" into a greaseable one by drilling a hole in its body, cleaning the drill dust and installing a suitable grease nipple.
  • However, drilling into them is not such an easy task - sometimes the metal is very tough and/or quite thin, thus making it hard to drill and thread it, and it can be difficult to extract all the drill dust.
  • Even if you manage to accomplish all that, it can be quite difficult or even impossible to pump new grease in it, because quality sealed joints can be sealed so well that the old grease just can't exit from the joint past the cup seals.

Greaseable joints

• For normal on-road driving, a greaseable universal joint should be re-greased at least during every engine oil change.
  • A greaseable universal joint should be preferably re-greased every time after the vehicle goes through deep snow, deep water or especially through deep mud, as well as through streams of water at high velocities or on filthy dusty roads at high velocities etc.
• The purpose of re-greasing an universal joint is to ensure that its internals are flushed of dirt, salt and other contaminants and that all the bearing cavities are filled with new lubricant.
• Lubrication of universal joints and splined slip yokes requires a good quality NLGI Grade 2 grease with extreme pressure/antiwear (EP/AW) additives and high temperature capability.

• When greasing it, keep pumping until the new grease starts flowing from each of the four bearing boot or seal.
• Do not assume that bearing cavities have been filled with the new lubricant unless flow can be seen around all four bearing seals.
  • If new grease does not purge at all four seals, loosen the bearing cap bolts and re-grease until all four cups purge.
    • If new grease still does not purge from all four seals, that joint probably has an internal problem and you can count on it getting worn off relatively soon.
      • This means to prepare for its impeding replacement by preventively obtaining a new universal joint and keeping it nearby.
• Another reason to keep pumping the new grease in for so much is to displace any water that has collected in the joint.
• Also, if a different grease to the old one is being used, make sure that they are mutually compatible.
  • If you are not certain in their mutual compatibility, apply a mega-extra quantity of the new grease to purge out as much of the old grease as possible.
• Finally, it is important to thoroughly clean all the exterior surfaces of the joint after re-greasing is finished, as the remnants of the grease on it will attract dirt and grit, and eventually pull them inside the joint ...

• When regularly and thoroughly greased (and with a proper grease), a high quality greaseable universal joint can easily achieve lifetime service longevity.

---

Page last edited on 21/02/2019 by user Bosanek