BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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Handbraking rear wheels individually?
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So with the 'bike cylinder connected the brake pedal will simply push fluid into the 'bike reservoir. Fit an NRV in the line to the 'bike cylinder and the foot-brake will work ok, but when you pull the bike lever, the fluid will just go back to the car master cylinder.
Ask 1066boy what he did, but I'm guessing he either fitted an extra calliper, or modified the existing calliper so the footbrake works one side and the fiddle brake cylinder works the other, and then the transmission brake is the parking brake as normal. (Or he could have just run the fronts off the pedal and had the backs only on the fiddle cylinders and a mechanical link somehow to get all 3 to press with his foot)
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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- 1066Boy
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If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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Always worked 30 years ago when I last fitted onefacade wrote: I see, you mean feed the footbrake line into the fluid inlet, that would normally have gone to the reservoir. That would work nicely.
I'm actually considering fitting one as an easy handbrake for laning.....I fitted Peugeot/puregit rear calipers and the gearing on the Jimny HBrake lever is wrong for the bellcrank on those and my left wrist is ruined.....it's not what you think.....I'm right handed you see .....might be what caused my eyesight to go though?
On the ebay one I linked to the metal may actually be cheese.....Caveat emptor!
They'd look pretty coming out of the dash by the side of the clocks don't ya think?
Hey wasn't Nick sticking with mild mods?
Supercharger turbo and nitrous plus water injection next I reckon!
Wintertime is great for making plans though.
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- NickR
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Back in the real world, I was considering a handbrake cable extension and extra levers "mild", but I think hydraulic mods to the main braking system definitely ups the ante more than I am considering Mind you, having had understeer and oversteer in one 90° corner this morning (that Citroen C2 was not getting away ), I was reminded of exactly what sorts of sports-car credentials a Jimny has, and that brake improvements come before anything else in that direction - back to bouncing along gently with a smile on my face for me!!
But, my off-road progress has so often ended with 2 spinning wheels, that something along this line is definitely worth the winter daydreaming. The equaliser looks perfect if I can just find a convenient, and legal, way of either blocking or pulling on each side.
As Keithy alluded to, making plans is part of the fun, even if I never actually realise them!
Nick
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Keithy wrote: Always worked 30 years ago when I last fitted one
Oh dear!
30 years ago every single thing in the world was better and made properly. Now everything is made in China out of pencil eraser rubber and old Dinky toys, I bet they won't last a week before something starts leaking....
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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On the 8th Day God made the LandRover -
On the 9th day he swapped it for a Jimny.
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- NickR
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I have ABS, so was wondering if that gave any other options. If the ABS module is on CAN, K-line or similar, then it presumably has fault codes and might have diagnostic routines. If it does have diagnostic routines, then it might allow us to control the valve to each wheel (useful for testing in manufacture and service maybe?!?). I assume the module is braking only (i.e. not used on any traction control models anywhere), so it can only block the pipe, and not actually apply any pressure of it's own. So, if the valve for any one wheel could be closed via diagnostic routines, then you could, while stationary, push the footbrake, lock the relevant valve and now that wheel will stay locked until you release the valve. The rest of the ABS valves may not work if this mode even exists, but that won't be an issue in these circumstances.
If all of the above were miraculously possible, then we could have a separate controller that plugged in to the OBD port, and invoked the valve routines as needed (one button per wheel), so we could plug it in only when safely off-road, leaving the car untouched at all other times... My understanding is that the rear brakes are both fed together, so this would only really work on the front wheels, but, hey....
That is a lot of "ifs" and "mights", and is about as Heath-Robinson as it comes, and I have no idea how to find out about potential internal test routines of the ABS module, so my first question is whether anyone here knows anything about the ABS module (mine appears to be made by ADVICS, but that is all I know so far)? The service manual mentions "Serial data line (K line of ISO 9141) (3) is used for SUZUKI scan
tool or generic scan tool to communicate with ECM, TCM, Air Bag, SDM and ABS control module.", but does not say much about what the scan tool actually allows you to do. Does anyone have any more details about the tool and/or it's supported functionality?
I suspect I have missed something glaringly obvious - please feel free to point it out
Nick
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On the 8th Day God made the LandRover -
On the 9th day he swapped it for a Jimny.
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- NickR
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Unfortunately, the first three of those photos did not come through. The triple handbrake lever did, and some tantalising shots of brackets, but not the ones that hopefully tie it all together
Nick
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