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. . (01 Nov 2019)
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I don't think the Jimmys got any brakes she said!

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08 Nov 2019 23:07 - 08 Nov 2019 23:08 #215491 by Fossie
So this evening the missus came home from the stables and said that she thought the brakes were not as good as they were in fact the warning light flashed on . The handbrake was fine though.
On checking the reservoir yep it was on minimum.....didn't take long to find the reason , yes the brake fluid was on the floor and along the chassis on drivers side.
I have searched this site but my question is where should I get replacement brake lines , how much and how much is it of a pig to do.

It is character building I know.
Last edit: 08 Nov 2019 23:08 by Fossie.

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08 Nov 2019 23:38 #215493 by jackonlyjack
Most independent motor factors will make you one up
Price should be around £15
Just be aware they don't fit the wrong ends.you need fully threaded fittings

I they say other type will work IT will not
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09 Nov 2019 00:07 - 09 Nov 2019 00:09 #215494 by Max Headroom
Hi Fossie

I rebuilt the brakes on my old MG Midget.
There are kits out there for some vehicles, but it was cheaper if I bought a flaring tool and cut my own from a length of Cupro Nickel pipe. Some kits are copper but its softer and probably easier to accidentally pinch, kink or crush.

The job itself was not difficult and I was able to route the pipes more neatly than the originals. Just don't overtighten the unions.

From memory, the tools I needed were:
A suitable sized pipe-cutter
A suitable sized pipe-bending tool
De-burring tool
Flaring tool.

Items needed:
Sufficient length of cupro nickel piping.
Sufficient amount of replacement unions and Tee-pieces
Sufficient amount of replacement rubber-lined P clips and support brackets
Bleed-tubes
Brake fluid


The biggest pain was trying to fathom out which type of flare was correct for my car - there are several. This is critical or you will simply get unions leaking. Several phone calls to various places eventually confirmed the correct flare tool needed.

Top tip - remember to fit the unions to the pipes BEFORE flaring the pipes! ;)


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
Last edit: 09 Nov 2019 00:09 by Max Headroom.

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09 Nov 2019 08:54 - 09 Nov 2019 08:58 #215503 by Scimike
I can just confirm what Jack and Max have already said.
It's not a difficult job replacing brake lines, the first issue is to remove faulty line and hopefully this will happen without snapping or rounding off the pipe end in the cylinder / union.
Once removed you have all the information to order unions / pipes to make your own, Google the flare type (bubble or ISO?) and get the correct flare tool. Cheap universal £9 tools are useless, expect to pay £35 - £40 for a specific fixed tool. I can send link to good ones if you want to make your own, or send you my (cheap) universal tool for free if you cover the postage. This is not a good offer, it's useless.
I like making my own and like Max have classic cars which share the cost of the tools.

Alternatively take the removed pipe to a garage or motor factors and pay them to make one for you. It's a £10 - £20 option.

Bleeding the brakes afterwards is a two people job, or you need an ezybleed or vacuum bleeding system to help, so another thing to consider if you have never done this.

Or just pay a garage to sort your brake lines out, it's cold outside and maybe the better (if more expensive) option. I expect £20 in parts plus 1hr labour, so about £60 - £100 ???
I don't do garages so maybe my prices are out for this.

Good luck

Mike
Last edit: 09 Nov 2019 08:58 by Scimike.

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09 Nov 2019 09:13 #215504 by Fossie
Thank you all for the info, daylight should make it easier to find exact location or pipe but , both rear pipes will need doing .
The cold wet comment is a factor !
I have a vacuum pump and could probably do with a flaring kit away , but will stay away from the cheapo versions then.
So will remove old ones with crossed fingers and and a pray that it doesn't snap or collapse , so I measure follow etc .. Again ta!
Just when you thought it was going so well eh?

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09 Nov 2019 12:53 #215508 by Max Headroom
Scimike is quite right about the el-cheapo flaring tools - I should have mentioned I took an age reading reviews and looking at my options before making a decision.

If you can identify the right flare, you may be able to hire one rather than buy one if the cost can't be justified


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS

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09 Nov 2019 19:32 #215522 by Scimike
As you plan to have a go:-

So this is the type to stay away from -

ebay.us/ppOj51

It will make a flare every 10th go that is almost acceptable, but for the most part I was not happy to use the resultant mess on my cars.

Eventually got this type, works every time and each flare is perfect. It's also good in tight spaces which means you can use it on lines attached to the vehicle. Note - you need to order the correct flare, picture just to show type.

ebay.us/w6I6mR

Other types exist which I am sure are just as good, but these have been a good addition to my toolbox.

Have fun
Mike

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15 Nov 2019 00:12 #215639 by Fossie
Thanks for the advice, rain , sleet , puddles and time constraints meant I asked the local garage to have a look. He did it next day £65 all new lines fitted and bled up....brakes never been so good...result ! Would have struggled to match hat price myself.
As for flaring kit will still look into it for bike club tool box which we share amongst members. Ta!

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