Is this the idle control valve?

Not used my Jimny (57 plate gen3) for a while and decided to start her up yesterday. Didn’t think anything was wrong as it was a cool day but realised the revs didn’t drop at all when warming up and sat about 2000rpm. On googling and searching on here I found quite a few post talking about the idle valve sticking and split hoses.

I can’t find a split hose anywhere, no engine management light, car drives ok along the driveway (sorn’d so cant go for a proper drive) so I assume the idle valve has stuck.

Anything to be aware of when removing it? Any do’s or do nots?

And what is best to use to get it moving again? Penetrating oil? Carb cleaner?

Thanks for any help you can give.


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Not cleaned the one on my Jimny, but it is what I would consider to be the idle valve.
They are normally held in place by 3 or 4 bolts and easy enough to remove. You should find an electrical connection and usually a coolant hose(s)that will need to be disconnected, have something ready to bung up the coolant pipes while it's removed, saves draining the coolant.

Once removed you will find it can be split again, the grey electrical connection moulding (stepper module) can be removed from the valve body, this will expose the "magnetic" end of the valve, the bit the stepper module rotates. This is the bit that's stuck usually.
Use a carburettor cleaner inside the assembly and gently try and move the magnetic valve end, it should simply rotate easily. Don't force anything and stay away from any tools other that your fingers to move the valve. Don't believe you can strip them much further, and to be honest never needed to.

Assembly is just the reverse as Haynes would say.

The above not based on the Jimny directly, but my experience with Toyota's IAC valve, it looks very similar in the photo. If you don't feel you have the confidence to remove the device you can get IAC cleaner from Euro car parts which just requires you to treat the valve on the vehicle. Spray it in, wait a few minutes, start engine and spray for a further 30 seconds. It should work unless it very dirty.

Hope this helps

Mike

Cheers. I’ll have a go during the week.


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I think somebody else on here had this not so long ago after a good blast down the dual carriage way it was fine.

Hi

I cleaned my one with carb cleaner. You disconnect pipe from air cleaner, hoses, electric connections and throttle cable, then undo 4 bolts. I found that their was a lot of “varnish” and gunge on the butterfly and around the two bypass holes which allow air to bypass the butterfly. Sprayed copious amounts of carb cleaner on the dirty bits and through the bypass. I didn’t dismantle the throttle body or remove any sensors. On reassembly I smeared grease on faces to help with air tight seal. Ticked over as designed. You’ll notice that egr and crank case vent basically spray into this area. Hope this helps.


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