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Side steps OEM - solution for a missing mounting part

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11 Jul 2019 06:41 #210871 by Bosanek
I obtained used Jimny 3 OEM plastic side steps.

Part number could either be 99000-990YB-776, 99000-990YB-777 or 99000-990YB-715 (they all look the same).

I attached pictures of the side steps.


The problem is that I now realized that I got all the mounting hardware except some very special big thick bolts&nuts which go into existing large holes in the chassis itself.
It appears that those bolts&nuts are rarely sold alongside used side steps on the second hand market, probably because they get seized by the time a used side step is being removed after all those years .....


Unfortunately, I can not ask the seller to resend those to me as the vehicle has been scrapped in the meantime.


Now I need either to:
1. Obtain the missing parts from somewhere else;
2. Fabricate replicas based on some specifications or measurements given by others;
3. Improvise some other way to securely mount the side steps to the chassis.


I found the pictures of the missing parts on the Internet, and I will post them in a follow-up reply to this message (to avoid confusing images).
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11 Jul 2019 07:10 #210872 by Bosanek
Here are attached some Internet pictures of the missing special thick nuts&bolts.
I circled the missing parts in red in each picture.


I would highly appreciate help on this matter because these side steps weren't cheap to obtain (expensive postage) and I had no clue that these missing parts even existed until a thorough Internet picture search ...

It appears that these missing parts are common for any model of OEM side steps.







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11 Jul 2019 07:44 #210875 by Lambert
Ah yes the infamous spreading sleeves. Your best bet is to find someone with a lathe and make some to fit your car.

Dreadnaught (black 2011)

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11 Jul 2019 10:54 #210886 by Bosanek
That is one of the options.

But I need some measurements or drawings to begin with. Could someone remove one OEM side step from their Jimny and take some measurement of this bolt and sleeve for me?

That would be an excellent opportunity for them to coat the bolts with some anti-seize compound for future removal.

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11 Jul 2019 21:46 #210917 by Scimike
I assume said rawbolt fits into one of the chassis cross tubes, if so can't you just measure the chassis tube?
Give yourself a.5mm clearance to allow it to slide in, looks to be about 40mm deep, but I doubt it needs to be super accurate and the bolt is the biggest that will fit the hole in the side step bracket.
Alternatively weld a plate over the chassis tube with a nut welded centrally on the inside of side plate, instant captive support bolt point.
Sorry if it's more complex than this.
Only trying to help.
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12 Jul 2019 05:07 #210933 by Lambert
Like Scimike says the necessary dimensions are easily measured from the step and chassis and if your engineer has a picture of the expansion fitting they should be able to produce a working solution. If they need a full dimensioned print to make one then they aren't an engineer and you need to look elsewhere.

Dreadnaught (black 2011)

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15 Nov 2019 10:18 - 15 Nov 2019 10:20 #215648 by Bosanek
Thank you both for your support and ideas.

That welding idea would probably be the cheapest option.
I would prefer not to weld, as that will burn off the factory anti stone chip coating on the surrounding parts of the chassis and inside the cross tube as well, requiring additional rust proofing work to be done.

I would prefer to go with these captive nuts as Lambert calls them (is that a correct name?). Does anyone know if these generic captive nuts can be bought anywhere? I asked Suzuki but they sell only complete side step kits for "$#&#$&" prices.



I am not certain that I completely understand how these nuts are supposed to work.

Please bear with me and confirm if this is correct (I am having difficulties explaining and understanding this as English is not my native language):

  • The deep sleeve with side cuts has a constant outer and inner diameter. The outer diameter is about 2 mm larger than the inner one (the difference is actually due to the thickness of the sleeve).

  • The minimum diameter of the conical part is a 1 or 2 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the deep sleeve with side cuts.
  • The maximum diameter of the conical part is THE SAME as the OUTER diameter of the deep sleeve.
  • These two properties enable the conical part to easily slide into the deep sleeve, but only about half way through.

  • The maximum diameter of the conical part (and the outer diameter of the deep sleeve) is 1 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the chassis cross tube (so that both of them can easily be inserted inside the tube).

  • Now, the whole concept is to somehow "push in" the conical part as much as possible into the deep sleeve while they both are inside the chassis tube. As that happens, the larger end of the conical part will force the deep sleeve to expand (conical's maximum diameter being larger than the inner diameter of the sleeve), thus jamming them both in the chassis tube.


The pushing in should somehow be accomplished by the bolt:
  • The conical part is hollow.
  • A nut is put through that hole so that the head of the nut is on the bigger side of the conical part.
  • Then the bolt is welded to the conical part, so the bolt and the conical part become one part!?

  • The deep sleeve with the two side cutouts has a hole in its bottom for the bolt to go through.
  • The bolt+cone is inserted into the deep sleeve so that the conical part is partially inserted into the sleeve and that the end of the bolt protrudes through the bottom of the sleeve.
  • Now the entire assembly is inserted into the chassis cross tube (bolt head first, then conical part, then deep sleeve), where it has some small slack. The end of the bolt is the only part which sticks out from the chassis tube.
  • Now a steel bracket of the side step is put against the end of the chassis tube, so that the bolt protrudes through a designated hole in the bracket.
  • Then a washer+nut gets bolted onto the bolt to some strong final torque.

  • As the nut is being bolted on more and more, that should force the bolt+conical part to be brought closer to the outside of the chassis tube, i.e. deeper into the deep sleeve.
  • This will force the deep sleeve to expand and get jammed into the tube.


There is a risk that the bolt will start to turn as the nut is being turned (there is no way to hold the bolt head while turning the nut). However, that should not happen, because the bolt is welded to the conical part and the conical part is getting jammed more and more strongly into the deep sleeve as the bolting torque starts to increase.

So in the end, the only force which holds that part of the side steps attached to the vehicle is the jamming force of the expanded deep sleeve against the inner walls of the cross chassis tube!?
Last edit: 15 Nov 2019 10:20 by Bosanek. Reason: Typo

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