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The dreaded P0335 code : crank shaft sensor circuit A

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31 Dec 2018 18:27 #199792 by Scooter
My 2004 Jimny 16v has come up on my friends snap on code reader with the P0335 code: crank shaft sensor fault
So I have changed both cam and crank shaft sensors
But to no avail. The code still comes back as soon as I start the car. However the code does clear and stay off whilst the engine is running if I clear it. The car does take quite a lot of cranking to start. Any ideas please folks? Thanks and Happy New year!!

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31 Dec 2018 19:19 - 31 Dec 2018 19:19 #199793 by mlines
This fault code means NO CKP sensor signal for 2 seconds at engine cranking. So it is only checked on initial cranking which explains why it can be cleared until the next start.

Causes are listed as:

CKP sensor circuit open or short.
Signal teeth damaged.
CKP sensor malfunction, foreign material being attached or improper installation.
ECM malfunction.

Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
Attachments:
Last edit: 31 Dec 2018 19:19 by mlines.

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05 Jan 2019 16:34 #200054 by Scooter
Thanks for the reply checked and power all ok, so since then I’ve:-
Had Ecu checked
Replaced starter motor
Replaced alternator
Replaced timing chain and tensioner ( was going to do anyway)
When first replaced alternator it started fine for the first half a dozen the cut out and was back to the same probable, any more ideas I’m all out please

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05 Jan 2019 18:22 #200063 by facade
Did you check the wiring to the crank sensor?

Some people tension the fan belt with a lever between the alternator and the block (as they can't undo the pivot bolt), and this breaks the top of the crank sensor, or the connector that goes to it.

Very few people have seen that code, as when the crank sensor starts to fail, it gives up when the engine is hot and is fine after it is left to cool, so it never fails the initial cranking check.

As you have no crank signal, then it must be down to airgap between sensor and teeth (this can't change unless someone has put a washer under the sensor, or it is the wrong one, magnetic swarf over the end of the sensor, a duff sensor, or the wiring. Check it carefully for breaks, corrosion, signs of being caught when a component was changed, and then you might need to check for the signal appearing at the ecu itself.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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06 Jan 2019 21:18 #200092 by Scooter
Hey thanks for your thoughts absolutely agree and have completed all the tasks you have suggested however with no joy, I’ve even tested continuity black/red, green/red all good,
Blue/black beeps for a second goes off and then if I lift off from where I’ve shaved the wire at the block connector at the ecu I get a fraction of beep ????

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