Replacement Key Fob - Done!

even if I just swap the blade over ill have a smaller key

This is what I am hoping! Just need to try the sequence to re-pair the remote locking. I am not changing the immobiliser or key blade. Once it arrives and I try it, I'll post how it works.

Nick

I got mine from Amazon, you essentially are just replacing all the plastic and rubber casings. Took less than 10 mins and now it works perfectly.

Cleaned it up with electrical cleaner before putting it all back together.

I didn’t need to re-pair my immobiliser or key. Just swapped out the internals and it worked immediately.

I had the same issue with the “sticky” unlock button, quick clean up and it was fine.

Has anyone tried that "triple door opening" procedure to pair the vehicle to the new remote locking transmitter?

If I am correct, this video describes exactly the same procedure (only in Suzuki SX4), does it?



My situation is the following:

I am the 2nd owner of my vehicle (made in 2012), which originally had a key with integrated remote locking transmitter, and probably an immobilizer too.
However the 1st owner had lost that key, and used only the spare "classic" (dumb) key after that. That is the only key which I have.

Now I bought a hardly used original Suzuki Jimny key with integrated immobilizer and transmitter. It is in like new condition.
I thought of trying this "triple door opening" procedure to try to pair my vehicle and the new remote locking transmitter, but I am afraid that I might make something worse (for example making the current classic key unable to turn the car on).

Should this "triple door opening" procedure work in my case?

Hi,

Well, ,I just received my replacement ebay key, so I took out the remote locking section, which was already fitted with a battery, and tried the sequence from the video above and the original sequence I posted earlier in this thread. Neither appeared to have any effect

However, mine is a 2007, so may not be the same as the later car in the video. And the sequence I posted has some inconsistencies, such as starting with the door locked, and then expecting to lock it as the first step. So, it may not be quite the right sequence.

I also need to find a way to check if the new remote fob is actually doing anything, and try a new battery of my own, just in case.

My existing key still works for starting and remote locking, so it hasn't affected that either.

If anyone else knows the correct sequence to pair the remote locking key with the car (not the immobiliser), then it would be much appreciated.

Nick

my key arrived a while back and now i,m looking at trying it out, i came with a small plastic wedge? when you guys talk about the immobiliser and key whats that? ive never done anything with ether. i,m going to swap the blade to the new key and try the re progamme sequence. the key with no internals (the original one) starts and locks the doors so wheres the immobiliser part hummmm.
i,m guess the remote locking is not going to work.

By plastic wedge, do you mean the red-circled bit in this picture?

If my understanding is correct, that is the immobiliser chip. You will also have one in the non-remote-locking key that you already have. When the key is in the lock barrel, there is a coil in the car that powers it inductively, enough for it to reply to the RF security request. But it has to be in the barrel to be close enough for that to work. The car would need to be re-programmed to recognise the unique code in that immobiliser chip for it to be used to start the car. That is only dealer, or specialist diagnostic tool work usually.

The remote locking (round piece) is separate and needs a "proper" battery/cell to power it to transmit the longer distances.

I really doubt there is any handshake between the immobiliser and remote locking, so I was just trying to use the remote locking section from the new key, along with the blade and immobiliser chip from my old key. But, I can't seem to get the right sequence for pairing the remote locking, as it simply remains unresponsive.

Well, that was my generic understanding anyway - hopefully the Jimny is not far off

Nick

Yes that's the piece nick, so where would that piece fit .? I, m back to the old key now, many thanks for info made things clearer

Hi Invincible

I have carelessly already lost the chip in the new key I bought, so credit to Jezz from another post for this picture showing where the immobiliser fits in the remote key.

I still can't get my car to recognise the new remote locking module. I have tried many different sequences found on the web, but none seem to work. I did see mention that there are 2 potential frequencies for the key, so I need to dig deeper to check I have the right frequency for my 2007.

I am still not sure if I am doing the procedure from the Service Manual correctly. This is what it says...

CODE REGISTRATION PROCEDURE
If transmitter or door lock controller replace new one, register key
code as follows.
1) Confirm that the vehicle is the following conditions.
• All doors are closed.
• Ignition key is out of ignition switch.
• Driver side door is unlocked.
2) Disconnect negative (-) cable from battery.
3) After 30 seconds, perform the following procedure within 60
seconds.
a) Connect negative (-) cable to battery.
b) Operate driver side door knob switch from lock to unlock.
c) Push “LOCK” button on transmitter and confirm that are
operated from lock to unlock.
d) Push driver side door knob switch to lock position.
e) Push “LOCK” button on transmitter twice and confirm that
all doors are operated from unlock to lock. With this, code
registration is completed.

It says to start with the driver's door unlocked, but then to cycle it from lock to unlock (but it is unlocked initially and not locked!). Has anyone done this sequence successfully, and could confirm exactly what to do here? Does it mean to start locked but "cycle" means to lock and then unlock it, perhaps?

Thanks

Nick

Hey nick cheers for reply, that description on procedure threw me, I thought I was thinking about it too much, but it doesn't make sense no. what it does do is make a smaller key that I spent a while filing the blade to fit, and did work, now not work!!!

I'm resurecting this thread because I don't think the procedure here works for Jimney's with two buttons on the fob, my 2007 Jimney remote locking/unlocking has failed, I've got another fob and have tried to 'program' the car to it and it doesn't work. I think earlier Jimneys had fobs with just one button and the procedure makes sense in that case "Push “LOCK” button on transmitter and confirm that are
operated from lock to unlock." Would be great to hear from anyone who has had a success with this.