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Rear axle woes

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02 May 2018 13:18 - 02 May 2018 13:19 #192332 by mickt
Rear axle woes was created by mickt
I have started to remove the rear axle due to cracked and leaking casing. I have the replacement but am having terrible trouble getting the thing stripped down. Every bolt is a saga. The first stumbler is getting the handbrake cable out of the back plate. Is the metal cone affair supposed to be compressed to allow the cable to pull out. There seems to be four fingers to it but how do you compress all four at the same time to enable it to be pulled out of the back plate?
The second is the shock absorber bolts. Mine have a unthreaded portion at their tip whilst the ones on the shop list just show "normal" bolts. Does the shop have/able to get the panhard bushes as the offside rear bolt has galled and will need cutting out and that means the bush will probably get damaged.. The access to the offside brake pipes is a nightmare as they are totally seized so that a normal open ended spanner will not be able to move them. I have a special form of gripper tool that has always got tough brake unions off but because the offside has the two pipes and the casting is such that I cannot use the spanner to remove them. Any tips apart from cutting the pipes and then attempt to remove them in a vice? No doubt there may be more questions/queries the further I go along. Even the driveshaft retaining nuts are a pain being too close to the tube. Are these prone to shearing?
Last edit: 02 May 2018 13:19 by mickt.

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02 May 2018 13:59 - 02 May 2018 14:05 #192333 by facade
Replied by facade on topic Rear axle woes
To compress the fingers you need to slip a suitable collar over them, I believe a 10mm ring spanner (or it might be 11mm) will do the trick.

I found that out after I had got mine out by pushing in one finger at a time with a screwdriver, and bending the cable on the other side of the backplate to just get them inside the hole...

And the brake pipes, wirebrush like fury, and get a penetrating oil like plusgas, diesel or gt-85 between the pipe and the union. You are trying to get the union to rotate and save the pipe, if you twist up the pipe like a liquorice stick it is no good anymore.

If you strip the rubbers out you can warm the casting with a blowlamp to ease things, but usually when really corroded the threads just come out on the union and you need a new cylinder anyway.

Might be worth getting new cylinders and making up new pipes, just cut them through, you only need get the female union off the flexible then.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)
Last edit: 02 May 2018 14:05 by facade.

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02 May 2018 15:22 #192334 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Rear axle woes
Thanks for your reply façade. Tried all the tricks on the brake unions. The main problem is the design. I have already visualised that the pipes are going to be scrap, I only hope that on the bench in a vice I can get the unions out with a socket as the cylinders are not cheap! as for the handbrake I found I could not move the outer cable away from the back plate, the big black rubber collar that is. I think I will try using lock wire around the fingers to see if that will compress the fingers enough. Getting the shoes back on looks like it is going to be a nightmare as the upper spring is a brute!

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02 May 2018 16:35 #192335 by facade
Replied by facade on topic Rear axle woes
Try slipping the ring end of the 10mm (I think) spanner over the fingers and pushing it down to the backplate.

Pop the rubbers out and warm the cylinder to expand the alloy off the unions if you have them on the bench, but you might find the corrosion has eaten away the threads anyway.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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02 May 2018 19:31 #192341 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Rear axle woes
I had trouble getting a plastic tie around it. I am wondering if I strip the other side of its shoes would that give me more wrangling room?

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03 May 2018 20:06 #192372 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Rear axle woes
Stripped the other side and the same problem. There is no way I could get a spanner down on the fingers. It took a while to get locking wire there but no good. I ended up cutting two of the fingers off and even then it took a while to get the thing out of the back plates. Good old dremel! On the good side I managed to get two of the pipes out using my get out of jail wrench and the third came out using the vice and the wrench. I took the cylinders off and found that that is the way you strip the brake shoes out as nearly a complete unit. One of the retaining bolts on the offside trailing link has galled but the axle is off the car. So two galled bolts to sort and one of the handbrake retaining clamps that sits on top of the nearside trailing arm sheared so that will have to be drilled and tapped. Thankfully all the bushes are OK except maybe the one that has galled.

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03 May 2018 20:33 #192374 by mlines
Replied by mlines on topic Re:Rear axle woes
I know it's too late but a jubilee clip ( hose clip) can compress the retainer

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Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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04 May 2018 09:20 #192382 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Re:Rear axle woes
Martin In my case the wobble room of the cable at the backplate was such that it was a pain getting a plastic tie past the end of the finger part and the back plate maybe because of the rust. Even pulling it out after cutting the fingers off was a pain!. Any thoughts on the points I asked in my first post about the shock absorber bolts having a bullet end before the threads and are the bushes for the panhard rod available through the shop?

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04 May 2018 10:25 #192385 by mlines
Replied by mlines on topic Re:Rear axle woes
All the bolts I sell are bolts (part threaded) not set screws (fully threaded)



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Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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04 May 2018 10:29 #192386 by mlines
Replied by mlines on topic Re:Rear axle woes
And bushes are through Zookbobs eBay store

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Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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04 May 2018 13:49 #192398 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Re:Rear axle woes
Managed to get the bolt out of the panhard rod without damaging the bush with the help of my inductor tool and the impact gun. No luck on the trailing arm bush bolt. I have had to cut that out of the axle and will have to replace both the rear bushes on that arm as they are not too healthy. Are the bushes the same size as the front arms axle end of course not the single end?

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