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BigJimny Meet 2019 (17 May 2019)

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Separating Jimny body from frame

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15 Apr 2018 07:25 #191713 by spin4pike

Lambert wrote: Quite honestly there is no logical reason to be splitting the chassis from the body for rust repair unless you are possessed of the skills and facilities to do it yourself self. It's not a job that is going to make any financial sense given the availability of replacement vehicles, this becoming increasingly relevant if you are paying a third-party to do the work. If however you are doing modifications to the vehicle like a body lift, arch tubbing etc and the rust repair is a secondary aspect of the work then yes it makes sense. My point is that the total cost of time and effort and all the little things like broken bolts etc could easily be put into a significantly newer Jimny that isn't rusted away.

I sandblasted the chassis on weels..am remove the springs and suspension.
I did not have broken screws
anyway I replaced them with some thicker ones
I welded the nuts on the body

the interior of the chassis had no rust. I washed it with water pressure and rust treatment. and I put a lot of wax

Trimis de pe al meu SM-G930F folosind Tapatalk

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15 Apr 2018 07:33 #191714 by spin4pike

spin4pike wrote:

Lambert wrote: Quite honestly there is no logical reason to be splitting the chassis from the body for rust repair unless you are possessed of the skills and facilities to do it yourself self. It's not a job that is going to make any financial sense given the availability of replacement vehicles, this becoming increasingly relevant if you are paying a third-party to do the work. If however you are doing modifications to the vehicle like a body lift, arch tubbing etc and the rust repair is a secondary aspect of the work then yes it makes sense. My point is that the total cost of time and effort and all the little things like broken bolts etc could easily be put into a significantly newer Jimny that isn't rusted away.

I sandblasted the chassis on weels..am remove the springs and suspension.
I did not have broken screws
anyway I replaced them with some thicker ones
I welded the nuts on the body

the interior of the chassis had no rust. I washed it with water pressure and rust treatment. and I put a lot of wax

Trimis de pe al meu SM-G930F folosind Tapatalk

I cut all the old screwof the body except those on the front and replaced with welded nuts
I've replaced all the bushes.
I wanted it though it was not necessary

Trimis de pe al meu SM-G930F folosind Tapatalk

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21 Apr 2018 06:35 #191970 by Bosanek
Thank you all very much for all the information, pictures and the suggestions. This significantly improved my understanding of the scope, size and complexity of the project.

The thing is that I had found a very nice diesel (DDiS) Jimny with only 95 000 traveled kms from the first owner, with all the equipment and then some (special 25th anniversary Swiss edition). The "only" issue is that the vehicle had exclusively been driven in various Swiss skiing centers, and the road salt had devastated its underbody.

So I was considering buying it and then performing a total underbody and chassis disassembly and sandblasting, zinc plating and coating in multiple layers of various rust protectants.

However a lot of people around me and some crows and pigeons as well dissuaded me from all that as it would take a significant organisational, logistical and quality control effort to perform it properly.

So at the end I bought a much newer petrol one with almost no rust, for the same price for which that diesel would have cost me after all the restoration.

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04 Feb 2019 16:27 #202558 by Dirtbird

Lambert wrote: Quite honestly there is no logical reason to be splitting the chassis from the body for rust repair unless you are possessed of the skills and facilities to do it yourself self. It's not a job that is going to make any financial sense given the availability of replacement vehicles, this becoming increasingly relevant if you are paying a third-party to do the work. If however you are doing modifications to the vehicle like a body lift, arch tubbing etc and the rust repair is a secondary aspect of the work then yes it makes sense. My point is that the total cost of time and effort and all the little things like broken bolts etc could easily be put into a significantly newer Jimny that isn't rusted away.


I was painting the rusty areas of the well where the jack is kept and said I google "how far do i go" and your logic lifted the cloud of gloom and I made a nice cup of tea . Your right there are rust buckets and good bodies ware out the rust bucket and pick up a clean one when the time comes . Great advice Lam
The following user(s) said Thank You: Lambert

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27 May 2019 13:35 #209061 by Bosanek
Lambert did indeed give a very sound and comprehensive advice regarding the entire point of going into that endeavor.

I also listened to his advice and abandoned the idea. In the end, I recently bought another Jimny which was (then) rust-free. However it also rapidly developed bad rust on all chassis to body mounts and wherever is a factory weld! Poor Japanese underbody treatment! That is one of their main automotive trademarks!


I read on other forum topics that these are the usual starting points for rust on Jimnys, especially the chassis to body mounts.

I need to exterminate this while it is still relatively early.

My idea is to temporarily separate the body from the chassis only slightly (like when installing a body lift).
This should hopefully provide sufficient access to the top side of the chassis body mounts, top side of chassis rails, and maybe some concealed body sections (above the fuel tank etc.). I noticed some strong concealed rust on the underbody above the fuel tank ........ on the body seams ....


Does it make sense to do this as described?

Can anyone elaborate a bit more on the procedure?


This is how I pictured it:
1. Undo nuts on all body mounting bolts.
2. Disconnect all brake lines from the chassis.
3. Use jack(s) to raise the body slightly.
4. Put wooden blocks between the chassis rails and the body on several places (to keep it separated slightly).
5. Remove the jacks.
6. Combat the rust on the top sides of chassis body mounts, top sides of chassis rails and concealed underbody sections.
7. Remove everything to original states by doing the above steps in reverse.


Questions about particular steps:

1.
Are the bolts from which I need to undo the nuts fixed? In other words, do I just need to undo the nuts on the bolts without using another spanner to hold the bolt itself from the top?

2.
Anything else to disconnect? Wires, fuel pipes, bumpers, etc. etc.?

3.
Where to put the jacks under the body in order to lift the body up?
How many jacks do I need?
How high can I jack the body up before something gets tensioned (various wires, fuel lines, brake cables, steering wheel column, etc.)?

4.
Is there a better idea?

6.
Any particular advice there?


Also, can all this be done in a simpler manner?
Are there any risks (like bending the body etc.)?

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27 May 2019 14:06 #209064 by jackonlyjack
Yes both bumpers off
fuel filler pipe remove the cover under rear arch and undue the hose clip (do not try and remove the bolts round filler cap )
steering rod from bulk head to steering box take both pinch bolts out and the rod will fall out on lifting
To refit the rod i used a triangle needle file to clean the splines a bit of grease and slid straight back on
some pictures half way down this page where i fitted a body lift
www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...y-named-r-b?start=24

Jack

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12 Jun 2019 13:28 - 12 Jun 2019 13:30 #209884 by Bosanek
@jackonlyjack,
Thank you for the advice.

What are the risks if I disconnect the fuel filler pipe from the body? I noticed rust around the hole in the body where the fuel filler pipe cap sits, so I would like to disconnect the pipe from the body and move it away to sort that out. It is held by only two bolts, so I do not see anything special there.

P.S.: How high could you temporarily lift your body from the frame after doing all the separations which you listed, and how did you lift it (several bottle jacks perhaps, on which locations?)?


Do others have anything else to add or advise?
Last edit: 12 Jun 2019 13:30 by Bosanek. Reason: Minor clarifications

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13 Jun 2019 16:36 #209919 by jackonlyjack
The bolts behind fuel filler flap just snapped off when i tried to remove
that's why on my current jimny i removed the hose clip.
Has i was only doing a body lift. 1 high lift farm jack was used
Lifted the rear first got around 6" clearance at back body mounts
Then after dropping in the 4 body blocks 2 @ rear 2 @ front seat belt mounts
i dropped the jack and moved to the front
Front lifted to around 5 to 6 inch under head lights

Jack

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