Vehicles (17 Jan 2019)
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Abs light diagnostic
I’ve just bought a 2005 Jimny with the abs light that comes on after 100yds of driving. I have 3 code readers, 1 doesn’t connect and the other 2 say ‘no codes’ so I’ve been round the sensors with a multimeter and got the following readings 1.330, 1.343 at the front and 1.383 and 1.453 at the rear, are these readings close enough to rule out the sensors?
Any other methods of fault finding or recommended scanners/apps that will read the abs ?
And the abs sensors give a square wave signal which can only be properly checked with a oscilloscope.
You can check the abs sensor rings for cracks, corrosion and dirt.
Its also possible that the air gap between the abs sensor and the abs sensor ring is to large.
But it might be wise to go to a garage with proper diagnostic equipment to read the fault code first.
so we are not trying to find a needle in a hay stack.
The fact you have to drive the car a distance before the ABS ECU realises there is a fault I would imagine the fault is more mechanical. I would check the ABS rings for damage, missing teeth, rust, splits, grit, roadkill between the teeth. Front ones are behind the discs, I am pretty sure you can see them with it jacked up (cant check on mine cos it doesnt have ABS!) . The rear ones are a bit trickier because they are behind the brakes on the half shafts. If you can get the sensor out you might be able to see them otherwise you will need to take the half shaft out.
Any time I have had to check anything like this I have had access to a Suzuki dealer computer or Bosch KTS which at least tells you what wheel to focus on. All a fault code reader is going to tell you is what wheel the ABS ECU has a problem with, its not going to tell you if it is the sensor, the ABS ring, the wiring or witchcraft. If you are checking the ABS sensors you want to check for AC millivolts or check the resistance. If you have a signal problem it means the ABS ECU has measured a difference between one sensor and the others. The resistance and signal might still be present in the dodgy one but unless you are measuring them all at the same time you wont notice.
In your position I would assume it to be a signal problem (because you have to drive it 100yds) and I would start by looking at the front sensor rings. If they are ok, next easiest thing to look at is the connectors (but if you have checked the voltage I assume you know their condition)
You could always pop round to your local Suzuki dealer about tea time (10am)or lunchtime with a box of cakes and see if anyone wanted to quickly check the code for you!
I used a paper clip to bridge the pins, worked a treat. I do have a pdf if the abs system at home but I did find this online.
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
Clearly you have to ensure the rings are intact and not damaged as noted above
ALSO the magnetic tips are not covered in crap ( light wire brush)
wheel bearings can through the sensors out too.
# eventually took the calipers off and cleaned the ring, very rusty and muddy
I used a little dremel and file but only lightly to show a bit of shinny metal peak and trough of the teeth.
I also worried about air gap but never got a definitive on that one, I have a gap of about 1-1.5 mm on one side and 1mm on the other, I did put an any corrosion spray on the ring which actually washed off after about 6 months in off road/road use but all worked again
If the ECU is carrying old bad codes, tack the negative battery terminal off the battery for 10 mins and reconnect, seams to get rid of old codes ( i think)
Was worried about the plastic sleeves which isolate the sensors from the carrier
( always break but squeezed them in on two half's per side).
Anyway, that worked for about a year and recently same flashing ABS so
repeated the above process but to no avail.
I pulled them right off the car and found a crush to one cable
they are a bit sensitive and can be troublesome after a while
The sensors are a two sided loom and £200 from Sims on Ebay
HOWEVER I purchased an after market set from stock here in the UK for +/-£20 2-3 weeks ago
They are perfect, ready to clip in ( SKV a reputable aftermarket manufacture from Poland)
ABS sensor front left or right; SUZUKI Jimny 1998 - 2000 ; 5620081A40
[they are exactly the same as the ones I took off on my 2007] and come with the little plastic sleeve insulator already on the sensors.
The above work is not too taxing for entry DIY, getting the 6mm bolt that holds the sensor in the carrier is the worst bit , so take your time with them !
New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging is ... Read more
Manufacturer of the Part: ESEN SKV
Manufacturer Part Number: 06SKV332 MPN: BA-SKV737843
Classic Car Part: Yes Brand Type: Aftermarket Branded
Reference OE/OEM Number: 5620081A40 Country/Region of Manufacture: Germany
Placement on Vehicle: Front, Left, Right Brand: SKV Germany
Type: ABS Sensor
spb-parts (16935 Feedback score: 16935
I’ve removed both front wheels and discs to find both reluctor rings in good order, no missing teeth or cracks just slight surface rust which I removed with an old toothbrush. The ends of the sensors had a few rusty crumbs which again i brushed off thinking this would solve the problem however now the light is on from start up and I never touched any of the abs wiring! Will try the flash test as suggested tomorrow.
Might be worth clearing the code in the way larnach suggests, then trying again.
If you unplugged each sensor to check the voltage with the ignition on, you potentially have 4 fault codes!
I’ve read the code this morning which is 61, abs pump motor circuit (going to recheck tonight in case it’s 16, but 99% sure it’s 61).
I didn’t have the ignition on when the abs plugs were disconnected.
The code wouldn’t clear this morning, presuming that’s because it’s a permanent fault?
Is the motor replaceable separate to the pump ?
I know loads of people are going to tell tales of faulty ABS pumps etc. but before you do anything check the fuses, all the fuses and (with the ign off) unplug the ABS control unit and have a close look at the terminals in the unit and the plug.
I dont have access to the correct manual at the moment but from memory Suzuki manuals are good at telling people to swap or replace control units. Users of the manual always seem to skim past the start of the manual that states it is for guidance only.
I know the pump and control unit are available seperately for some cars but if I were you and I was 100% the pump or motor was dead I'd probably stick a 2nd hand complete unit on rather than source one or the other.